Date: 9/21/2007
From: jefrimmer
Message:
How can I clean out mildew that has accumulated under the vinyl strip that holds the glass to the shower tile?
____________________ Date: 9/21/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
jefrimmer:
Have you tried using Tilex brand cleaner (http://www.tilex.com/questions.html#mildew)? I've had very good success with it for controling mildew in showers.
A couple of points that you might want to consider:
1) Read the instructions very carefully. The fumes are not good to breathe.
2) You will want to be very careful not to stir up the mold and mildew spores such that they dispurse up into the air where they can cause respiratory problems.
3) If the mildew has gotten established deep under the vinyl strip, unfortunately, you may need to bring in a professional.
4) You should consider eliminating the root cause of your mildew problem. Why is your shower staying damp and becoming a breeding ground for mildew? Do you need to squeegy the water off the walls and floors into the drain after using the shower? Or do you need to place a fan in front of it, or install an exhaust fan? In other words, what can you do to keep your shower from being a damp spot waiting to grow mildew?
We hope this is helpful.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 9/22/2007
From: Laura
Message:
what kind of paint should be used to paint radiators
____________________ Date: 9/22/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Laura:
The short answer is that you might want to consider using something like Krylon "Hi Heat & Radiator" brand paint for your radiator.
But here are some other thoughts that you might want to consider:
1) if you are going to do this project for this winter, you should consider doing it soon, before the weather gets too cold. This is because you will want to open the windows and and run your heating system to allow the smell and fumes that will likely be produced the first time your new paint job gets warmed up by the hot radiator.
2) Regardless of which brand of high temperature paint you choose to use, you should consider using "non-metallic" paint. Non-metallic paint can come in a variety of colors, and will allow your radiator to emit more heat that a "metallic" paint.
3) Although it is not much fun, like any painting project, preparing the surface to be painted is the most important part of the job if you want the final product to look good and to last. Dirt, grime, loose old paint all need to come off if you want the new paint to stick properly. A wire brush, chemical strippers, and an old screwdriver can all come in handy for doing this. Next you will want to put down a coat of and oil-based (not latex) primer that contains a lot of zinc.
4) One last thought is that if you are looking for a more decorative finish to your radiator, and are looking for a "bronzed" or two-tone appearance, you might want to check out: http://www.oldhousejournal.com/magazine/2003/february/bronze_beauties.shtml
Hope this is helpful for you.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 9/27/2007
From: paulaa
Message:
I have a Majestic gas fireplace with an automatic pilot that stays lit all the time. It sometimes makes a sound similar to when you are outside using your gas BBQ grill on a very windy day and the breeze effects the flame. I turned the pilot knob and accidentally turned off the pilot light. I know that it can be easily re-lighted but I'm not sure how to do it. I don't have a manual that tells me how to re-light the pilot light. Do I just open the flue, turn on the gas, and then when I turn on the knob for the pilot light, do I manually light it with a long match or lighter?
____________________ Date: 9/27/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
paulaa:
Regarding re-lighting the pilot on your Majestic gas fireplace, we found a free video for you on the Majestic website that shows you exactly how to do it. You can see it online at: http://www.majesticproducts.com/ and it is right in the middle of the homepage of the website. The video runs about 2-3 minutes, and shows you the entire procedure in detail. If after seeing the video you are not completely comfortable doing the re-lighting yourself, then you should definately consider bringing in a professional.
If you need more information than you get from the video (since the video is for one particular model of Majestic gas fireplace, and your model may have a different pilot lighting system), then you can download the owner's manual for your particular model of Majestic gas fireplace at: http://www.majesticproducts.com/content/support/manuals.cfm?browse=drilldown&categoryid=5
We hope this is helpful for you.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/8/2007
From: jgalbee
Message:
why does my front load washing machine have an odor after running a load of clothes.there is no smell in the clothes. i have heard this has to do with the gasket around the door, if this is true what can i do about it
____________________ Date: 10/8/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
jgalbee:
I assume that the odor that you are referring to that comes from your front load washer is a "mold or mildew" type smell? If so, this actually a common problem that occurs with front load washers. It is caused by water sitting on the gasket that goes around the door (which explains by you have heard it was related to something with the door). There are a couple of things that you can do to eliminate this odor problem with your front load washer. First, after each washer load, you can try leaving the door open, so that the water around the door gasket can thoroughly dry out. Second, to get rid of the mold and mildew that has built up in your washer, you can try using products such as "Purewasher" (which you can find at www.smellywasher.com) or "Whirlout" (which you can find at http://www.summitbrands.com/brands/WhirlOut.aspx).
We hope this solves your problem.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/8/2007
From: Terry
Message:
My propane fireplace comes on with a loud bang when the gas ignites. I've had it serviced twice for the same problem but to date it still exists. Any ideas as to what might be causing this problem. I'm afraid it is going to blow the glass out one of these times.
____________________ Date: 10/9/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Terry:
We STRONGLY recommend that you not use your gas fireplace until a qualified service technician has done a full inspection and made the appropriate repairs or adjustments to your unit. It should not be making a bang when you ignite it. There are several things which could potentially be causing this, but without doing a physical inspection of the unit, its not possible to say exactly what it is. It sounds like you have had someone look at your unit before. They may be very qualified, but I would suggest that you contact the manufacturer of your unit, and ask if they can provide a list of qualified technicians in your area, for your particular gas fireplace.
And again, we suggest not using your unit until the igition problem is resolved.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/10/2007
From: Lsilic
Message:
What does it mean when the coils on a dehumidifier frost up? Do I need to performance maintenance on the unit. Is there any hazards associated with the coils frosting up.
____________________ Date: 10/10/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Lsilic:
The answers to your questions depend on whether the frosting of the evaporator coils is complete and even, or is it just partially frosted? A dehumidifier should definitely not be operated with the coils are totally frosted over, as this can damage the compressor.
If your problem is that the coil is completely frosting over, then the problem is not likely a maintenance problem, but rather it is because the room temperature is too low for this particular unit. Most dehumidifiers are not designed to be used when the room temperature is below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. However, there are models called "basement" dehumidifiers that are designed to operate at lower temperatures. So you might have to change to one of these models. If the temperature of the room that you have your dehumidifier in is just slightly below 70 degrees, then you might try elevating the unit off the floor to where the temperature in the room will be a little higher (since hot air rises), or you might try placing a fan where it can blow warmer air on the unit.
On the other hand, if you are seeing just a partial frosting of your evaporator coils, then this could be an indication that either your unit is running low on refrigerant, or that the compressor is failing (or the controls for the compressor are faulty.
We hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/12/2007
From: brian correa
Message:
Diagrame of setup from diswasher to garbage disposal to drain
____________________ Date: 10/12/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Brian:
Here's a link for you that shows the setup from the dishwasher to the garbage disposal to the drain:
http://www.insinkerator.com/service/install_disposer.html
It also shows a great multi-media tutorial on how to install a garbage disposal for the first time, or how to replace an existing one, and more.
Hope this helps.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/12/2007
From: cheryl W.
Message:
if the garbage disposal is running, but will not drain, backs up, probably due to overload, is there a chemical you can use to unplug the drain?
____________________ Date: 10/12/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Cheryl W:
If your garbage disposal is running fine, that is, if the motor is turning freely when you turn the switch on, but the water is backing up in the sink, then the culprit is likely a clog in the drain pipe coming out of the bottom of the garbage disposal. If you haven't already, you might want to try "Drano", by SC Johnson Wax, which is "guaranteed" to get your drain flowing again. Well actually, by "guaranteed" they mean that if it fails to clear your clog, Johnson Wax will gladly refund what you paid for their product (so save your receipt). But depending on what is clogging your drain pipe, it may actually require a professional to remove the obstruction if Drano doesn't work. But a product like Drano is a great place to start.
Note: Johnson Wax claims that all Drano products are safe for garbage disposals, with the exception of Drano Kitchen Crystals Clog Remover. Please remember to READ ALL DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY. In particular, you do not want to turn on your disposal and have Drano splash back on you.
Hopefully Drano will solve your clog problem, but if you want to avoid this kind of problem with your garbage disposal in the future, you should follow the routine maintenance tasks for your garbage disposal that are described in the Home-
Wizard Maintenance Library: http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/garbagedisposal.asp
And please remember, NEVER put your hand into your garbage disposal. Even if it is unplugged, the blades are very sharp and can cut your fingers.
Hope this helps.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/14/2007
From: fredgervasi
Message:
My painter reemoved the 2 windows and 1 screen insert from each of my storm windows. In what order do I put them back in.
____________________ Date: 10/14/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
fredgervasi:
There are actually quite a few styles of storm windows: interior, exterior, combination (which can be either double-track or triple-track), etc. From your description in your question, its a little difficult to tell exactly which style of storm window that you have. But with this said let me do the best I can to answer your question.
It sounds like you have a "combination" style storm window. There are a couple of things that you will want to think about as you reassemble you storm windows. First, you will want to take this opportunity to clean and inspect your storm windows, and especially the tracks that the storm window and screens slide up and down in. You will want to check the screens for any holes or tears. You will want to clean the sash. You will also want to clean the tracks and lubricate them with a light oil like "WD-40". And you will also want to unclog the vents that let water run out at the bottom (you can unclog these vents with a toothpick, awl, or ice pick).
Secondly, the important thing in re-assembling the windows and screen, is that they are placed into the correct tracks. That is, if the tracks that they are put in are not the right sizes for the window or screen, then they will not slide up and down correctly.
Since you mentioned that you had two windows and one screen insert, then I am guessing that you have a "triple-track" storm window. For these, typically the access to the sashes is from inside of the house, through the open main window. The outside and middle tracks contain window panes which can be slid up and down. The innermost track contains the screen which can also be slid up and down. And this would be the order that you would want to re-install the windows and screens.
If doesn't help you, then please send us a follow-up question with some more information about what particular type of storm windows that you have. And this could help us to give you a better answer.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/18/2007
From: heartmom
Message:
What is the best way to get rid of cracks in the walls or ceiling of a house? If you can't get rid of them, what is the temporary "Fix," and how often must this "Fix" be done?
____________________ Date: 10/18/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Heartmom:
Let me respond to the second part of your question first. Your question about what to do if you can't get rid of cracks in your wall or ceilings, and how often a “temporary fix” might have to be repeated, is very important. The reason it is important is that it gets at the need to determine WHY the cracks are forming in the first place. Usually, cracks result from a house naturally settling on its foundation, or periods when you house may have experienced large changes in temperature or humidity, etc. Small cracks created by these events can be successfully repaired and should last for a long time. But if your repaired cracks end up showing up again in just a few months, getting bigger, or are joined by cracks in other parts of the wall or ceiling, then this may be an indication of a bigger problem, such as: the wood framing in the walls or ceiling may be flexing due to excessive moisture; or the structural integrity of your house might be compromised; or that your home needs a humidifier for the winter; etc. If this is the case, then it would be best to talk to a building contractor who can diagnose the problem before more serious damage is done to your home.
Now regarding the first part of your question, the initial step to fixing a crack in the wall or ceiling is assessing whether you have plaster or drywall (drywall is also known as sheetrock, plasterboard, or wallboard).
With plaster, you will need to check to see if the metal lathe on which the plaster is applied needs to be secured with some additional nails. The cracks can then be filled with plaster compound. After it dries, you can sand it and paint the affected area, and carefully “feather” it out to the surrounding areas.
For repairing drywall wall or ceilings, the patch compound you will use is called “joint compound” (also sometimes call “spackling putty”). Applying drywall joint compound typically involves putting several coats on, and sanding in between each coat. Use a sanding block to help keep your work flat and smooth.
Sometimes larger cracks both in plaster and drywall need to have the crack area enlarged to remove loose pieces. This can be carefully done with a utility knife. A very wide crack will need more reinforcement to help it stick properly. And this is where patching tape (also called joint tape) will be helpful. If the section is very large, then you may even want to cut back the wall or ceiling all the way back to the middle of the studs or ceiling joists (the middle of the studs so that you still have something to nail to), and then adding a new section of drywall (and then patching the seams with drywall tape.)
One important note is that textured ceilings installed before around 1979 may contain asbestos, which is hazardous to breathe when disturbed. If your house is more than 25 years old, you should have the ceiling tested. And if the test comes back positive, then you will need to have a licensed asbestos abatement contractor tell you what your options are. Do NOT work on it yourself if you suspect that there could be asbestos involved.
We hope this helps.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/25/2007
From: gogorita1
Message:
My husband is constantly after me to keep the vents in our freezer section of the refridgerator free of items. He tells me that if the vents are blocked with frozen items it makes the freezer work harder. The vents pertrude out so they can't be totally blocked. We argue over this all the time. Can you let me know if there is any validity to his concern??? Thanks!
____________________ Date: 10/25/2007
From: Bshipperbkbb1
Message:
i have a customer with a gas fireplace and here is the question...he has a 110 live power line coming from the wallswitch that he want to install to the igniter and i refuse to do it because i am afraid it may cause serious damage or can result in death. the box doesn't show a ce mark! anyway the gas fireplace came from a company call Stuart.
____________________ Date: 10/25/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
gogorita1:
Well, I'm sorry to have to take sides between you and your husband. And please don't shoot the messenger. But yes, blocking the vents (even partially) in a freezer reduces air circulation in the compartment, which therefore reduces the cooling efficiency of your unit. As a result, either your freezer compartment will run a little warmer, or if it has a thermostat that controls it to a set temperature, then it will cause your compressor to have to work harder which consumes more energy and reduces the life of the compressor.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but hopefully this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/25/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Bshipperbkbb1:
I think you are VERY wise to be cautious about adding any wiring to a gas fireplace. A gas fireplace should only be installed in accordance with the exact specifications provided by the manufacturer for that particular unit. And you are correct, electricity and gas can become a very dangerous combination.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/29/2007
From: gomich89
Message:
My hot water does not work on the washing machine? I have checked the hose and the on and off valve, the water flows freely through the hose but once connected to the washing machine the water only dribbles out. The cold water works fine? Is there a fix? The model that I have is a Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care 80 series Model #82681110 any info would help thank you.
____________________ Date: 10/29/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
gomich89:
There are two power-activated electronic valves in your washing machine, one for cold water and one for hot water. When your washing machine goes through it cycles, depending on what settings you are using, these valves receive power to them at the appropriate time in the cycle to open and close. In other words, when they receive power, these electronic valves open up to allow either hot or cold water to flow into your washer. I assume that when you say the hot water "just dribbles" out, that you are checking it when the setting is showing that hot water should be coming into the washer.
Since you have already checked that hot water flows out of the hose that goes to your washer, there are two things left to check. The first is to check where the hose connects to the washer and see if the screen that is inside of the fitting where the hose connects to washer is plugged up. Be very careful if you are trying to clean out this screen, as with some model washers, this screen can be very difficult to replace.
If this inlet screen is clear, then the next thing to check is the electronic valve that controls the hot water (often called a "solenoid" valve). Testing the solenoid valves for your washer is probably something that you want to ask a professional to do for you. To do it yourself you will need to unplug the power cord from the wall, get a owner's manual from Kenmore (I didn't find one online), and then use a multitester meter to see if the solenoid valve is reading the proper amount across the terminals of the valve (although if it reads 'infinity', then the valve is bad). But again, testing a solenoid valve on your washing machine is something that you should ask a professional to do.
Hopefully, it will turn out to be just a plugged screen.
Hope this is helpful for you.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 10/31/2007
From: Phil
Message:
How do I remove rust forming on the sliding dish basket of an automatic dishwasher?
____________________ Date: 10/31/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Phil:
One question that I would have for you is whether you are seeing rust just on the sliding dish basket, or are you also seeing a rust-like film on the inside walls as well (it would look like a light brown staining on the walls)?
But assuming that the rust film is there, but it is just alot worse on the sliding dish basket, then the cure for this is citric acid. You can buy special packets of citric acid for your dishwasher, but believe it or not, what will work just as well is to use 'Tang' Breakfast Drink (that comes as an orange powder). Just fill both dishwasher cups with Tang Breakfast Drink powder, and then run your dishwasher through the normal cycle. If rust is really bad, then several treatments may be required. One hint though is to first run the hot water in the sink until it gets very hot, and then turn on your dishwasher. This ensures that your dishwasher starts with hot water.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/1/2007
From: mare
Message:
How do I clean melted plastic (Nalgene cap) from the heating element? Do I have to replace the element?
____________________ Date: 11/1/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Mare:
I assume that you are referring to the heating element of your dishwasher, where you were washing your Nalgene bottle and that somehow the plastic cap came in contact with the heating element.
Here is something that you can try, that will hopefully work for you. First, remove all of your dishes, etc. from your dishwasher. Then scrape off all of the plastic that has melted onto the heating element. Be sure to remove it from the underside of the element as well. Try to get all of the plastic off that you possibly can scrape off. Next pour about a half gallon of white vinegar into the bottom of your dishwasher so that it completely covers the heating element. Let the dishwasher sit like this for a day if you can, or at least overnight. Then turn on your dishwasher and let it run with the vinegar in it (but still with no dishes in it). Then run it again with nothing in it.
Hopefully this will remove what little plastic residue that might have been left on the heating element, and also gets rid of the burning plastic (and vinegar) smell from your dishwasher.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/4/2007
From: Trevor
Message:
when the dishwasher is turned on , the tight comes on , but nothing happens
____________________ Date: 11/4/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Trevor:
Since the light is coming on, it appears that you have power coming to your dishwasher (or power at least to the light).
A simple thing that you can do, which most of the time will solve your problem, is to pour a large pot of regular tap water into the inside bottom of the dishwasher. You then close the door and turn your dishwasher on. Hopefully, your dishwasher should then start and run normally.
The reason that this will work most of the time, is that if you haven’t been using your dishwasher for a little while, the water at the bottom of your dishwasher dries out, and the pump loses its “prime”. When you pour the water into the bottom of your dishwasher, it primes the pump.
When you are done, you might want to pour a little vinegar in the water, which will help act as lubricant to the rubber seal around the pump shaft, to help prevent problems in the future.
If this doesn’t work for you, please let us know, and we can try other things to troubleshoot your problems.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/4/2007
From: greg
Message:
i need a blower for a wizard insert wood stove
____________________ Date: 11/4/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Greg:
You might want to try "Woodman's Parts Plus" (http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com). They seem to have a good selection of blowers for a wide variety of models of wood stove inserts.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/4/2007
From: alice.display
Message:
Can you tell me how I drain the expansion tank (hot water systems)?
I have a spigot on the bottom of the tank what has to be done after it is drained?
____________________ Date: 11/4/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Alice:
PLEASE NOTE: water in a hot water system can be scalding hot. You need to be very careful working around your hot water system to keep yourself from being burned. If you are un-sure what you are doing, you should contact a trained professional.
Newer hot water systems typically have a diaphragm-type expansion tank, which is sealed, so it's not necessary to drain it. However, from time to time, these types of tanks need the air inside them pressured up. Older hot water systems typically have conventional expansion tanks that should be flushed out annually. You can recognize a conventional expansion tank because they will have two valves around them: a shutoff valve going to the furnace; and a drain valve on the bottom of the tank.
Here is the procedure for draining a conventional type expansion tank. First, close the shutoff valve that goes to the furnace. Position a bucket under the drain valve on the bottom of the tank. If you cannot position a bucket underneath the drain, then you can attach a garden hose to the drain, and run the other end of the hose to a bucket. Once the bucket is in place, then open the drain valve. The water should flow out, but if it doesn't, it may be necessary to use a wrench to open the vacuum-breaker plug (not all tanks have this plug) on the drain valve. After the tank has been drained, close the drain valve and vacuum-breaker plug; then re-open the shutoff valve going to the furnace.
Once again, if you have any concerns about doing this procedure safely, you should contact a professional heating contractor.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/5/2007
From: nelly
Message:
How do you remove air that is trapped in pipes of hot water base board heaters.
____________________ Date: 11/5/2007
From: nelly
Message:
How do you remove air that is trapped in pipes of hot water base board heaters.
____________________ Date: 11/5/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Nelly:
Please note: BE VERY CAREFUL working around your boiler, as the water can be SCALDING HOT.
I'm assuming you have air in your baseboard hot water system and it's making noise, which is a common complaint this time of year. Regarding the procedure for bleeding air from your baseboard heating system, first shut off your boiler and make a note of the water pressure. Next locate the self-feeding (auto-makeup) water valve and ensure that the make-up water supply is connected and water is available. Then open up all of you valves that go to your various heating zones. Then close all of the shut-off valves. Next, attach a short piece of garden hose to one of the spigots coming off of the return line that goes back to your boiler. While manually opening the auto-makeup valve, open the spigot and let the water run in to a bucket or a drain. BE VERY CAREFUL, as the water coming out of the hose will likely be very hot. Let it run until you no longer see any air bubbles, which could take several minutes. While you are doing this, keep an eye on the water pressure and don't let it get above 25 PSI. If needed to control the pressure, release the auto-makeup valve momentarily. After you have stopped seeing air bubbles, release the auto makeup valve and close spigot. Allow the water pressure to return to normal. You then repeat these steps until all of your zones have been bled. When done, close all of your zone valves and open all of your shut-off valves. Then check the water pressure, which should be the same as what you noted at the beginning. And then finally, turn your boiler back on.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/5/2007
From: Gene in Maine
Message:
how does a baseboard heater boiler replace water after heating up? In other words, how does the boiler know how much water to replace?
____________________ Date: 11/5/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Gene in Maine:
When a baseboard heating system heats up, the water in the system expands, and since it is a closed system, this expanded volume of water has to go somewhere. This is why baseboard heating systems have an “expansion tank” that accommodates this additional water volume. Note however, when the boiler heats up, the water expands taking up MORE volume, rather than water needing to be replaced.
But your question seems to be about how water is replaced, so let me describe how this works. Water needs to be replaced if the baseboard heating system has a leak somewhere in the system. The system handles this by a pressure regulator that allows fresh water supply from the house to replace this lost water. Water will come into the system until the pressure that is lost from the leakage of water is brought back up to the setting on the pressure valve. The water is replaced essentially instantaneously. If there is a significant water leak in your baseboard heating system then you will hear water being replaced, which will sound like someone has briefly opened a faucet somewhere in the house.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/7/2007
From: kurliequ
Message:
I have a central heating and air unit. It blows air but it won't blow warm or cool air. The Emergency heat works though. We replaced our outside unit a year ago. What could be the problem.
____________________ Date: 11/7/2007
From: artiesobc
Message:
how do I winterize my lawn irrigation system using compressed air?
____________________ Date: 11/7/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
artiesobc:
Here's a link to a website that does a fairly good job of describing the procedure for using compressed air to winterize your lawn sprinkler system:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/LawnCare/Winterblow.asp
Please note that blowing out your system can be potentially dangerous, and you should take adequate precautions to ensure proper eye safety and to avoid physical injury from flying debris. You need to also be careful not to over-pressure your system.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/11/2007
From: Mike
Message:
how do i purge air out the of the hot water baseboard heater at the furnace
____________________ Date: 11/11/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Mike:
Regarding how to purge air trapped air out of your baseboard heating system, the procedure is described in the answer to the first question at the bottom of this page at Home-Wizard.com:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/baseboardheating.asp
If does not answer your question completely, just let us know.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/12/2007
From: donna
Message:
stinky towels
____________________ Date: 11/12/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Donna:
I assume by "stinky towels" that you mean that washing in your washing machine leaves your towels smelling funny?
If you haven't already, you might want to try white vinegar and running an empty load with your washer on the highest temperature setting. Let your washer start to fill for about 30 seconds, and then pour in about one-half cup of white vinegar into the machine's soap drawer. Then let it run empty through its entire cycle.
If this doesn't work for you, then you might want to try treating your washing machine with "Purewasher", which you can purchase at http://www.smellywasher.com/
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/12/2007
From: SonyaK
Message:
I have a Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care Washer Model 110. My hot water will not shut off unless you turn the valve off. The machine will start the wash cycle once it gets to the fill level but the hot water is still running. You can turn the machine off and the hot water still runs. I have checked the lines what else should I check?
____________________ Date: 11/13/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
SonyaK:
From the description of your problem, it sounds like your washing machine has a stuck hot water solenoid valve than needs to be replaced.
Other possible causes of water that doesn't shut off in a washing machine are: bad water level switch; an air leak or a kink in your water level switch hose; an air leak in your air dome; or problems with your machine's timer.
But from what you described, it sounds like it is most likely that your hot water solenoid valve has gone bad.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/17/2007
From: Julie in Colorado
Message:
My gas fireplace continually has a strong odor when on (kind of like burning urine). We have lived here for 2 years and have not had it serviced. Is it possibly a simple matter of needing a professional cleaning service, or could it be something else, more dangerous?
____________________ Date: 11/17/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Julie in Colorado:
No, it is not normal for a gas fireplace to give off a strong smell for this long of a time. The strong "urine" smell could be urethane insulation that is too close to the firebox or vent pipe. Or if you are running on natural gas, it could be the mercaptan odorant in the gas which is leaking.
But regardless, I would strongly recommend that you be safe and shut off your gas fireplace until you have the unit throughly inspected by a service technician who is qualified to work on your particular model of gas fireplace.
The technician should inspect whether there is insulation anywhere that is too close to the unit or vent piping. And the techician should also check for any gas or vent piping leaks.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/22/2007
From: kevintforster
Message:
We have a well pump. Every morning when we use the shower or faucets for the first time that day, the water pressure drops and sounds as if air is in the lines. It only happens for a short time.
____________________ Date: 11/22/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
kevinforster:
Since you said that you lose water pressure from your well water system the first time you use it in the morning and that it sounds like there is 'air' in the lines, it makes me think that you may be seeing the effects of methane gas building up in your water supply.
If you had a leak in your plumbing, valves or holding tank, it would likely have entrained air all of the time. But since it sounds like you are seeing the problem only first thing, after not using your system all night, then the suspect may be methane gas that builds up overnight.
A test for this is to turn on a faucet first thing in the morning in a very WELL-VENTILATED room and with a long-stemmed match, try to light the gas that comes out. Air will not burn, but methane will. Be very careful doing this, and if you have any questions about it, leave it to a professional.
To correct excessive gases in a well water system (whether it is methane or any other gas) you may need to consider an aeration system. If you go to www.wqa.org, you should be able to find a certified water specialist in our area who can advise you.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/26/2007
From: Molly
Message:
Is it best to use cold or hot water when using the disposal? Or does it matter either way? I thought hot, but recently heard to use cold. Thank you!
____________________ Date: 11/26/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Molly:
When you operate your disposal, you should use cold water, not hot. Hot water can melt fats which makes it easier for them to clog the disposal mechanism and your pipes. Running your disposal with cold water also helps to keep the mechanism to operate cooler when its running.
But when you are not operating your disposal, it is fine to run hot water through it.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/28/2007
From: jtoddy25
Message:
I have an electric hot water heater and I just started to use the my wood stove. I noticed that the wood stove also has a line to heat the hot water. Ever since I started using the wood stove the pressure relief has been draining water into the bucket consistantly. It drains about 2 gallons. Is this normal?
____________________ Date: 11/28/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
jtoddy25:
I would suggest that you immediately stop using your wood stove to heat hot water, and have your system inspected by a qualified service technician.
The reason that your pressure relief valve is draining water is that your water lines are over-pressured. This is a typical risk of using a wood stove to heat domestic hot water. The water gets too hot from the wood stove, and when it over-heats it raises the pressure too high in the pipes, which is why your pressure relief valve is opening up to let off the excess pressure, that is, draining the water out that you are seeing.
If your pressure relief valve fails, the high pressure steam that builds up in your hot water system can potentially even cause your pipes to burst.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 11/29/2007
From: David
Message:
My dishwasher does not discharge all of the water from the tub basin. It leaves about 2" of rinse cycle water in the bottom, once the cycle is complete and the unit shuts off.
The discharge hose does have to run uphill slightly to the drain, but this does not appear to be a problem except for at the very end of the cycle. What can I do to completely drain the remining water?
____________________ Date: 11/30/2007
From: liyarb
Message:
dishwasher keeps getting mildew in bottom of disherwasher where it drains. what can i do to stop this?
____________________ Date: 11/30/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
liyarb:
If you are getting mildew forming around the drain of your dishwasher, then there is moisture collecting at the bottom of your dishwasher.
This could be caused either by your dishwasher not pumping out all of the moisture completely, or it could because you are adding moisture by placing rinsed dishes in your dishwasher and the water is dripping down to the bottom.
A couple of other things that you can check are whether the drain area is partially plugged with food residue (leaving a ridge where moisture can puddle), or whether the water in your dishwasher is hot enough to dissolve the detergent that could cake up and also partially block the drain.
Lastly, are you allowing the heat cycle to dry your dishes after running, or are you trying to save energy by air drying, which is not drying out the dishwasher and allowing the standing moisture to create mold at the bottom?
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/8/2007
From: joel.schacter
Message:
I have an exterior plug in my soffit area which is switched and is intended for plugging in my exterior Christmas lights. I plugged in one string and the GFI circuit "popped" on the other exterior plug located on my front porch a few feet away. Obvioulsy the lights now won't work. I have checked the switched plug with a polarity tester and it states that all is correct. I have tired other appliances in the switched plug and everything causes the GFI to pop. Any ideas??
____________________ Date: 12/8/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Joel:
As you may know, since the GFI is "popping" nearby, these plugs are most likely on the same circuit, and there is something shorting out the circuit. It could be the switch, it could be the plug, or something could be shorting the wires in this circuit inside your walls (a nail, mice chewing on the wires, etc.).
You want to be very careful with this. The GFI (ground fault interrupter) is there for a reason, to protect your house from short circuits, especially in areas where there could be water that could conduct electricity to a person, for example in bathrooms, kitchens, and exterior locations.
I would think you would want to call in a qualified electrician to inspect your plugs and wiring.
And in the meantime, if you can, to be safe you should consider turning off the breaker at your fusebox, if there is a separate breaker for this circuit.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/10/2007
From: Hope
Message:
yesterday for the first time, my dishwasher did not completely drain. there were about 3 to 4 inches of water. can you tell me why?
____________________ Date: 12/12/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Hope:
When a dishwasher has gone through it cycle, finding a small pool of clean water at the bottom of the tub is fairly typical. But if you are finding excessive amounts of water, then something isn’t working correctly. Some things that could be causing this problem include:
DRAIN LINE: Sometimes the drain line can get clogged where the drain line from the dishwasher meets the household drain line. You can disconnect the line and clean it out to remove the clog.
GARBAGE DISPOSAL: Sometimes when the dishwasher doesn’t drain all the way, the problem turns out to be related to the garbage disposal (if you have one). You can check the connection where the dishwasher line drains into the garbage disposal, and if it is plugged, then clean it out. Also, be sure that you garbage disposal is operating and draining properly.
STRAINER: Depending on the design of your particular dishwasher, the strainer at the bottom of your dishwasher may be plugged. To check this, turn off the power to your dishwasher and let the unit cool down. Then, depending on the design, remove the strainer (that could be located under the bottom spray arm), and carefully scrub it clean with a brush.
DRAIN VALVE / SOLENOID: Many dishwashers use an electrically controlled valve to open and close flow to the drain. If this valve is sticking or otherwise not operating properly, it could be causing water to pool at the bottom of your unit.
PUMP: The pump that forces the water into your dishwasher also can pump water out of your dishwasher, depending on your unit’s particular design. If the pump isn’t working properly, this could be the cause of your problem.
MOTOR: If the motor that drives your pump isn’t working properly or not getting power, it could be causing your water pooling problem.
TIMER: And lastly, ever once in a while, a water pooling problem can be caused if the timer on your unit isn’t operating properly, and not enabling it to drain at the proper time in the cycle.
As always, be sure that the power to your dishwasher and garbage disposal is disconnected before doing any work on them.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/15/2007
From: momothemonster
Message:
Our lakehouse uses water baseboard heating. We recently had a pipe burst which resulted in alot of water damage. We were wondering, what would happen if we turned off the valve from the main water supply? (So that if it every burst again, we would only have a leak equal to the amount of water in the system). Would we then be introducing air in the system? (as I understand it the system normally may lose water due to small leaks and it automatically compensates for this by adding new water - but if no new water is available, then I figured I'd have air in the system.) Thanks for your help!
____________________ Date: 12/15/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Momothemonster:
Sorry to hear about your burst pipe in your hot water baseboard heating system at your lakehouse.
I assume that since you say your pipe “burst”, that your lakehouse is a region of the country where it gets below freezing (when water freezes, it expands, and the force of this expansion is so powerful, that it can cause even steel pipes to rupture).
To answer you question, yes, you can shut off the main water supply valve, BUT you will also need to DRAIN your water system completely (BOTH hot and cold). If you don’t completely drain the water our of all of your pipes, then the trapped water in the pipes can freeze and burst one of your pipes, and then when you turn your main water supply valve back on you will have a mess on your hands.
And then in the Spring when you turn your main water supply back on, you will need to bleed the air out of your hot water system. For a description of how to do this, you can go to Home-Wizard’s online Maintenance Library, to the page on “Baseboard Heating System Maintenance”: http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/baseboardheating.asp
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/16/2007
From: momothemonster
Message:
Thank you for your response! And you assumed correctly about living in a cold region. We think we must have lost power and therefore the water was no longer being heated (as it is powered by electric) and therefore froze.
But just to clarify on your comments.....if I wanted to keep the heat on (at a low setting), I should keep the main water supply valve ON?
(Otherwise my other choice is to do as you suggested and turn off the water (and have no heat) and drain the pipes.)
Thank you!
____________________ Date: 12/16/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
momothemonster:
You have some good follow-up questions.
Yes, it sounds like you lose power from time to time, and then get freezing in your baseboard water heating pipes. And since it sounds like you have electric water heating, you not only lose the water being heated, but you also lose the electricity for running the water circulation pump for your baseboard water system. In other words, even if you switch to oil or gas for your boiler, when you lose electricity, you still would not have power to circulate water through your baseboard water system, and therefore your pipes could still freeze and burst.
And yes, if you want to leave the heat on, you can still shut off the main water valve.
The risk, however, is that if you lose power for long enough period, you could still get freezing in your baseboard heating pipes (plus freezing in your toilets, household water pipes, sink drains, etc.) and get damage from the frozen water expanding. But you will have limited how much water spills out by closing the main supply valve.
If you do decide to turn your heat off, remember that you not only need to drain your baseboard water heating system, but also your water heater tank, the household water system, etc. And if you cannot drain water completely out the traps in your sinks and toilet bowls and tanks, then you will need to put a small amount of RV antifreeze in them. And you should also leave open all faucets and showerheads. And if you have a refrigerator, it should be cleaned out, unplugged, and left with the door propped open.
If you have any questions about how to completely drain the water out of the equipment and plumbing for your particular lakehouse (since this can be rather tricky), then I suggest that you should consider using a trained professional who can come out and do the appropriate service.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/16/2007
From: D. Wilder
Message:
Lately we can hear water flowing through the hose connected to our washer even though it is not being used at the time? Is this something we should have a plumber come and check? We finally turned both faucets off.
____________________ Date: 12/17/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
D.Wilder:
When you say you "hear" water flowing through the hose that is connected to your washer when it is not running, do you mean that you just hear it, or do you also see the water coming into your washer at the same time? And if so, does it fill up your washer and then stop?
If you don't see the water coming in, then this water could be flowing somewhere else, but because the hose comes out of the wall, you hear the sound from the hose.
If its not coming into the washer, then the question is whether this flowing water is going someplace that it is suppose to be going, or is it leaking inside a wall or foundation.
And did the water sound stop when you closed the faucets to the hoses for your washer? If it did stop, then you probably want someone to come out and check the solenoid valves and timer on your washing machine. If the sound did not stop, then you probably want someone to come out to see if there is water leaking somewhere (unless you know for sure that the water is going to a dishwasher, baseboard water heating system make-up water, etc.).
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/17/2007
From: Bobby
Message:
Why has my gas boiler started to blow back?
____________________ Date: 12/18/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Bobby:
If your gas boiler has started to blow back, you should have it inspected by a trained professional RIGHT AWAY. The problem could be due to items such as a bad burner, blocked exhaust piping, etc. But you should have a trained service technician do a thorough inspection.
In the meantime, you need to be very careful of poisonous carbon monoxide gas that could be created from incomplete combustion or leaking exhaust gas. Make sure that your carbon monoxide detectors in your house are working properly, and that your boiler area is well ventilated until you can get a service person to inspect your boiler. Which you should do as soon as possible.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/18/2007
From: anonymous
Message:
how do i fill a hot tub
____________________ Date: 12/18/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Regarding your question of how to fill a hot tub, if your go to Home-Wizard.com's Maintenance Library, and then click on the link for "Hot Tub Spa" (http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/hottubspa.asp), you will see Maintenance Task #2 "Open the spa for the season". This will describe the general instructions for filling your hot tub.
Hope this is helpful.
____________________ Date: 12/19/2007
From: mike.cooley
Message:
Trying to replace a bathroom tube restrainer. The existing one is giving me hell as I try to unscrew. Any recomendations?
____________________ Date: 12/19/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Mike:
I'm not exactly sure which pieces you are working on. But if its metal pieces in the bathroom that you are trying to unscrew, you might want to try spraying them with "Liquid Wrench" (or another such penetrating / dissolving oil), then letting it soak in overnight.
And now here's where you need to be careful. When you are trying to break free parts that are stuck together like what you've described, its better to give a sharp pull on the wrench, rather than a long strong tug. But be careful, if you give it too sharp of a tug, you could break or strip the threads.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/25/2007
From: jhielscher
Message:
PG&E california alternative?
____________________ Date: 1/13/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear jhielscher:
I assume that by your posting of "PG&E california alternative?", that you are wondering if you can purchase electricity supplies from someone other that PG&E for your home.
The answer is unfortunately no. Because of flaws in the deregulation process, the California Public Utilities Commission suspended direct access in September 2001.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/27/2007
From: vanessen
Message:
Hi there, we just bought a house with a propane in ground tank. The previous provider wants us to sign a 5 year contract with a min. of $ 1000 per year. He says that the tank belongs to them.
Coming from California, we are quite clueless regarding propane and providers. Can we shop around? Does that mean that the company can dig up the tank?
____________________ Date: 1/13/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
vanessen:
Yes, some propane providers who will want to own the propane tank at your house (for example Suburban Propane), whereas others such as Eastern Propane will allow you to own the tank yourselves.
The advantage of you owning the tank yourself is that you will be able to shop around for the best propane prices and service. Since you own the tank, you can choose whichever supplier you want (although some providers may not want to serve you if they don't own the tank themselves).
On the other hand, if the propane company owns the tank at your house, then they will likely not let you purchase propane supplies from anyone else. And as a result, you won't have the benefits of competition.
But what you will have to decide is whether the initial cost of having to purchase a propane tank (either the one currently in the ground, if the existing provider will let you, or a new one) is worth the benefits of future competition. Note that even if the current provider will sell you the one in the ground, you will need to check whether it is in good condition, and whether new providers will allow you to use it for their supplies.
The best thing to do is to shop around and talk to other providers to see what they are willing to do.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/28/2007
From: Confused in Bristol
Message:
I'm a bit confuse about which valve should remain open after i'm finished removing the air from my baseboard radiators. Do I leave the valve above the circulation pump open or closed, or do I leave the valves below the circulation pump?.
____________________ Date: 1/14/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear "Confused in Bristol":
If your question is what positions should your the valves around you boiler (both before and after the circulating pump) be in after you have finished bleeding the air out, the answer is that the valves should be in the same position as before you started the air bleeding procedure.
Just remember, what you are trying to do, zone by zone, is to let make-up water come in to replace the water (and air) that is currently in the piping for each zone. The fresh water coming in will not have any air in it, and you will let it flow in until you see the water coming out no longer has air in it.
Hope this is helpful. If you still have questions, just let us know.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/30/2007
From: perkybob
Message:
my electric furnace makes noise when it is turned off. Could it be a stuck or noisy relay or what
____________________ Date: 12/31/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear perkybob:
What type of noise is it?
Does it sound like "creaking metal"? Or a motor turning? Or is it a "whooshing" sound?
Or how would you describe the sound that you are hearing after your furnace turns off?
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 12/30/2007
From: sagehervan
Message:
i lived in a apartment and radiator baseboard was not working and now it is and the fumes are all threw the apartment will it go away soon are will i have to get repairman.
____________________ Date: 12/31/2007
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
sagehervan:
Regarding your question about the smell from your baseboard radiator system, since you said that you are in an apartment and had not used the baseboard system before, there are two things that this could likely be:
1) if the landlord painted the baseboard heating system (either directly, or if paint dripped on the baseboard radiator when the walls or ceilings were painted), then when you turned on the system, the increased temperature could be causing "outgassing" of the paint as it warms up on the surface of the radiator; or
2) if dust has built up on the surfaces of baseboard radiator, then this can have a "musty" smell when your system comes on for the first time in a season.
In either case, if these are the problem then it should go away over time. However if it is because of paint on the radiators, you might want to open the windows to help air out your apartment, rather than breathing the paint fumes. And if it is due to dust build-up on your radiators, you might try using a vacuum attachment to clean off the built up dust.
If the smell does not go away soon, then you (or your landlord) should contact a professional.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/1/2008
From: maggie
Message:
I have a crack in my ceiling that runs about 10ft. Some of it is unlevel. What do I do to repair it myself
____________________ Date: 1/2/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Maggie:
Let me reprise a response that I gave to a similar question from "Heartmom" back on October 18, 2006:
Heartmom:
Let me respond to the second part of your question first. Your question about what to do if you can't get rid of cracks in your wall or ceilings, and how often a “temporary fix” might have to be repeated, is very important. The reason it is important is that it gets at the need to determine WHY the cracks are forming in the first place. Usually, cracks result from a house naturally settling on its foundation, or periods when you house may have experienced large changes in temperature or humidity, etc. Small cracks created by these events can be successfully repaired and should last for a long time. But if your repaired cracks end up showing up again in just a few months, getting bigger, or are joined by cracks in other parts of the wall or ceiling, then this may be an indication of a bigger problem, such as: the wood framing in the walls or ceiling may be flexing due to excessive moisture; or the structural integrity of your house might be compromised; or that your home needs a humidifier for the winter; etc. If this is the case, then it would be best to talk to a building contractor who can diagnose the problem before more serious damage is done to your home.
Now regarding the first part of your question, the initial step to fixing a crack in the wall or ceiling is assessing whether you have plaster or drywall (drywall is also known as sheetrock, plasterboard, or wallboard).
With plaster, you will need to check to see if the metal lathe on which the plaster is applied needs to be secured with some additional nails. The cracks can then be filled with plaster compound. After it dries, you can sand it and paint the affected area, and carefully “feather” it out to the surrounding areas.
For repairing drywall wall or ceilings, the patch compound you will use is called “joint compound” (also sometimes call “spackling putty”). Applying drywall joint compound typically involves putting several coats on, and sanding in between each coat. Use a sanding block to help keep your work flat and smooth.
Sometimes larger cracks both in plaster and drywall need to have the crack area enlarged to remove loose pieces. This can be carefully done with a utility knife. A very wide crack will need more reinforcement to help it stick properly. And this is where patching tape (also called joint tape) will be helpful. If the section is very large, then you may even want to cut back the wall or ceiling all the way back to the middle of the studs or ceiling joists (the middle of the studs so that you still have something to nail to), and then adding a new section of drywall (and then patching the seams with drywall tape.)
One important note is that textured ceilings installed before around 1979 may contain asbestos, which is hazardous to breathe when disturbed. If your house is more than 25 years old, you should have the ceiling tested. And if the test comes back positive, then you will need to have a licensed asbestos abatement contractor tell you what your options are. Do NOT work on it yourself if you suspect that there could be asbestos involved.
We hope this helps.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/2/2008
From: donna
Message:
our gfi keeps popping when we run the dishwasher - but we've had it for 8 years and have not relocated any other items. It wont pop if we run on a low energy cycle - but if we run it on normal it pops.
____________________ Date: 1/2/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Donna:
Regarding your GFI tripping off when you run your dishwasher on its normal energy cycle but not on the low energy cycle, it could be a couple of things happening:
1) as GFIs ("ground fault interrupters") get older over time, they sometimes begin to trip at lower power levels. So in other words, it may have been fine operating at let's say 20 amps for years, but now it trips at 18 amps as the GFI has worn out.
2) Your dishwasher may be exeriencing a power surge when the heater for your dishwasher's normal power kicks on, and this is what is tripping your GFI.
Either way, you probably want a qualified electrician to test your GFI and dishwasher.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/3/2008
From: bandbmalone
Message:
what causes the deterfent not to dissolve fully
____________________ Date: 1/14/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear bandbmalone:
Regarding you question about what causes the detergent not to dissolve fully, I assume that you are refering to your washing machine? If so, the problem could be the brand of detergent you are using, and whether you are using hot or cold water. Some detergents do not dissolve very well in cold water. So if you are using cold water, you might want to try switching detergent brands.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/3/2008
From: larry
Message:
what to do after a frozen pipe bursts on a hot water oil burner baseboard
____________________ Date: 1/14/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Larry:
I'm very sorry to hear that you had a frozen water pipe burst in your hot water baseboard heating system. Hopefully you did not incur much water damage, which can be a real mess and the damage can be extensive.
Regarding your question of what to do after a frozen baseboard heating system pipe bursts, here are a couple of thoughts:
1) Obviously, shut off the water supply to your baseboard heating system immediately.
2) Do NOT try to heat your pipes to thaw them out with anything stronger than an electric hair dryer. Using a stronger heat source (such as a torch or propane heater) can cause the trapped water to boil and explode.
3) Unfortunately, you might find that when your baseboard heating pipe froze up, that in addition to the section of line where most of the water came out, that there may be other sections that were also damaged, and will therefore also need to be replaced. This is because when one one section of baseboard pipes freeze, it can also freeze upstream and downstream of this section of the pipe (including inside the walls). And further, unfortunately you should also check your toilets and their traps, to see if they show any cracking from the same low-temperature incident that caused your baseboard heating pipe to burst.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/3/2008
From: silvia
Message:
My garbage disposal is running fine, the drains and doesn't back up but their is a terrible odor that comes back. We rarely use the disposal because we can hardly stand the smell. This problem has just begun over the past few months.
____________________ Date: 1/3/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
silvi.007:
Its great that your disposal is running fine, and it sounds like it just needs to be cleaned regularly.
The following is the procedure for cleaning your garbage disposal:
1) Place ice cubes in the disposal, grind them up, and flush with cold water. This will help sharpen the blades and remove buildup from the inside of the disposal.
2) Pour a cup of vinegar into the sink drain and let it sit for about one hour, then flush down with very hot water. This will help to remove scale build-up.
You should do this at least once a year, but more often depending on for what and how much you use it.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/4/2008
From: Della
Message:
The blower fan under my Kozy Heat Zero clearance wood stove makes noises like grinding or squealing. I have taken it apart before and oiled it, but the sound usually comes back by the next heating season.
The blower system is made up of two Dayton fans, Model 4C549, about 4 1/2" dia.x 1 1/2 " ht., in a housing unit 15 1/2" x 3 7/8".
What can I do to service one of these properly? What can I do to keep it from recurring?
Do ashes that get sucked into the space cause problems with the fans?
If I can't fix the problem, is it possible to buy the fans or complete unit without having to go thru a dealer? Thanks
____________________ Date: 1/4/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Della:
For a very specific question about the problem with the fan on this particular model of zero clearance woodstove, I would suggest that you call Kozy Heat toll-free at 1-800-253-4904, or you can send them at e-mail at: questions@kozyheat.com
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/5/2008
From: anonymous
Message:
how do you remove the screen from your storm window?
____________________ Date: 1/5/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
To anonymous:
To find the answer to your question about storm windows, you can look at the answer at the bottom of this page: http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/stormwindows.asp
If you need more help, just let us know.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/6/2008
From: anonymous
Message:
how do you change a faucet?
____________________ Date: 1/8/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Anonymous:
Here is a link to site that gives a fairly good description for how to replace a faucet:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Repair/RepFaucet.html
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/8/2008
From: ar2ducks
Message:
i'm trying to drain my pumps on my jacuzzi twin pump hot tub but there is not a drain plug to drain the housing I removed the suction line but that will only half o the housing.
I live n Alaska and the breaker keeps tripping so I am draining it for the winter.
Any ideas?
____________________ Date: 1/8/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
ar2ducks:
Just opening the drain plug typically is not enough to get all of the water out of a spa's pump system, but rather, to clear water from the water pumps suction and return lines you must use a canister-type wet vacuum to ensure that the lines are cleared of all remaining water. You probably should check with the manufacturer of your specific pumps to be sure.
A bigger concern is what is causing your pumps' breaker to trip. If this is being caused by an electrical problem, then I would think you would want to get this checked before you use the system.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/9/2008
From: jessica
Message:
how do I connect the washer machine hose to the utiltiy basin?
____________________ Date: 1/13/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Jessica:
I assume your question about "connecting your washing machine to your utility basin", is regarding the waste water hose from your washer.
The waste water hose from your washer should connect to the U-bend trap under your utility basin. It should connect on the side of the "U" in the U-bend that is closest to the drain at the bottom of your utility basin.
Note that the hose coming from your washer should be fixed in position so that it is 3-4 inches higher than the connection to the U-bend, before it goes down to your washer. If not, dirty water going down the drain of your utility basin can flow into your washing machine and fill up your washing machine tub.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/9/2008
From: Pipes4TX
Message:
We have a gas fireplace that has a switch that turns the gas on and off. With the pilot light on. When we turn on the fireplace it runs for awhile and then it quits and sometimes it starts up again in a little while. How do we figure out what is wrong? What type of repair person takes care of this?
thanks, Lezlie Pipes, Roswell, GA
____________________ Date: 1/9/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Lezlie:
It sounds like your gas fireplace could have a thermostat control, that when the room (or fireplace unit) come up to temperature, that it tells the fireplace to shutdown. Then when the room (or unit) cools down, it tells it to come back on. And it would work like this when the switch for the fireplace was in the "on" position.
A common "complaint" with gas fireplaces is that they are so efficient, that they can heat up a room fairly quickly, and then if they have a thermostat control, they will shut down to keep from overheating the room. One way around this is to turn down the flame settings down as low as possible, but you loose the nice look of the flames in the fireplace. And another alternative, is with some models, you can add piping and a blower that takes heat from the fireplace and has it blow into an adjacent room (if your rooms will allow this configuration). This way the fireplace can run, but not all the heat goes into the room it is in (so the fireplace can run longer).
Getting back to your question about a service person, I would suggest that you contact the manufacturer of your particular brand of fireplace, and ask them for a list of qualified and trained service techncians in your area who they have approved to work on your brand of fireplace.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/9/2008
From: Lezlie
Message:
Re: Gas Fireplace, that was extremely helpful. Thanks!
____________________ Date: 1/9/2008
From: Art From PGH
Message:
We're moving to a house that has a septic system and heard that it is not good to use a garbage disposal since the septic is not designed to take the volume of waste.
1) Is this true (there are only two of us)
2) Is a trash compactor a viable alternative (i.e. for all the food waste that would normally go into the garbage disposal)
____________________ Date: 1/9/2008
From: Art From PGH
Message:
FYI - regarding the garbage disposal smell -- make sure to take out and thoroughly clean the rubber "funnel" that covers the opening (assuming it is removeable and you've disconnected the power), as well as the opening the "funnel" seats against. We had a friend who had this problem and when they removed the "funnel" they found about a 1/2 inch of gunk that had built up and smelled terrible. After cleaning the smell was gone!
____________________ Date: 1/9/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Art from PGH:
Regarding your first question, yes, you can use a garbage disposal when you have a septic system, HOWEVER, since you will be adding more solid waste to your septic system, you need to be VERY CAREFUL to check your septic tank level more often. As you probably know, if your septic tank fills up with solids, these solids can over-flow and go into your leeching pipes which will be very expensive to remedy if they become plugged. And since you are new to the house, you will not have history on how often you should have your septic tank pumped.
The other point about your garbage disposal, is that some towns and cities do not allow garbage disposals to be installed where there are septic systems. And since you are new to this house, if you want to be in compliance, this is something you may want to check.
Regarding your second question, yes, a trash compactor is a viable option. In general, trash compators are considered good for the environment because they reduce the trash's volume by about 80%, so it takes up a lot less room in a landfill. However, a couple of thoughts about using a trash compactor for food waste. First, food waste will not compact down as much as other household garbage; and secondly, depending on how "green" you want to be, an alternative to a garbage disposal is to set up a compost system in your yard, which will naturally bio-degrate your food waste. If you are interested, here is a link to some instructions on how to set up a home compost pile: http://www.ehow.com/how_137794_set-compost-system.html
Hope this helpful.
PS: Thanks for adding you tip about the garbage disposal smell!
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/10/2008
From: Bill Glesne
Message:
What about adding Home Inspectors to the, "Find Contractors" list? Recommended category options:
Building Inspectors
Home Inspectiors
Inspectors
Thank you,
Commercial & Residential Inspections
Vancouver, WA 360-690-6833
____________________ Date: 1/10/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Bill:
Bill:
Thanks for you for your suggestion about adding "Home Inspectors" to our "Find Contractors" list. I think this is a great idea, and I will begin to brainstorm with the team here about how best to do this. A couple of initial thoughts come to mind. One idea is to show the home inspectors around the country who have sponsored versions of Home-Wizard.com. The other is to provide links to the membership pages of ASHI, NACHI, NAHI, etc. Again, thanks for the suggestion.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/10/2008
From: bobjohnson
Message:
I am a home inspector that will be refering your Wizard Program to my clients. When are your services available? Days and time slots. When can they expect to receive a response and from what type of person will be responding?
____________________ Date: 1/10/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Bob Johnson:
First of all, we're glad to have you as one of the companies using a sponsored version of Home-Wizard.com!
I assume that your question is about what your clients should expect when they submit a question to "Ask the Wizard"?
Here's how it works. When a question comes in to "Ask the Wizard", it automatically sends an alert to the people here who put together the online "Maintenance Library" for Home-Wizard.com. We review the question and decide which of us is the best person to answer the question, and then this person prepares and posts a response. It is usually the person who prepared the Maintenance Library page for that particular subject. And sometimes they need to do additional research in order to answer a specific question, especially questions that are about specific repairs rather than just routine maintenance.
So to answer your point about "When are your services available? Days and time slots?", the answer is that someone is usually available to respond to an "Ask the Wizard" question from 8am to midnight Eastern Standard Time, seven days a week (we have very dedicated employees, who don't mind working from home!)
Regarding your question about "When can they expect to receive a response?", the answer is that so far almost all questions have been answered within 24 hours, and most have been the same day. If people have included their e-mail address in with their question, then in addition to posting the response on the "Ask the Wizard" page, we also send the response directly to the e-mail address that they provided.
And finally, regarding your question "What type of person will be responding?", the answer is that its the same people who developed the Home-Wizard online Maintenance Library.
If you have additional questions, just let us know at info@home-wizard.com, or we can set up a time to discuss by phone.
Once again, we're glad to have your company using a sponsored version of Home-Wizard.com. And we hope that you continue to find that it is helping you build your relationships and grow your business with your clients.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com.
____________________ Date: 1/14/2008
From: Shirley
Message:
I have a majestic gas firplace with an automatic pilot light that keeps blowing out after a period of time. We tried cleaning it for dust accumulation, but it still blew out. Help
____________________ Date: 1/14/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Shirley:
We are of the firm belief that when it comes to gas appliances, they should be inspected and adjusted by trained professionals.
Here's a link that will give you a list of authorized Majestic fireplace dealers in your area:
http://www.majesticproducts.com/content/wheretobuy/locator/index.cfm?locatortype=dealer
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/15/2008
From: pauline
Message:
Determine if Drano is an acid or base and describe how it works to clean clogged drains.
____________________ Date: 1/15/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Pauline:
Is this something that you are working on as part of your Burlingame HS WebQuest (http://bhs.smuhsd.org/bhsnew/academicprog/science/vaughn/ChemDocs/acidbasewebquest.html)?
But anyway, here is a link to some info about Drano that you might find helpful:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dr%C4%81no
____________________ Date: 1/15/2008
From: ross
Message:
when looking into the disposer the small center piece spins but not the blade, i use the hex, i reset, center piece spins but is not attached to the inner blade did a weld break or something
____________________ Date: 1/15/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Ross:
Please be VERY, VERY CAREFUL when looking into a garbage disposal that is turned on. You should be wearing EYE PROTECTION, and if it were me, I'd be wearing a FACE AND NECK SHIELD. A garbage disposal typically has a slotted rubber boot across the opening to the sink, that helps keep things from flying out when it is running. I assuming that you are pushing this back so that you can see inside. But again, please be very, very careful.
With that said, if the motor is turning freely, but the blades are not moving, then it sounds like you have a broken coupling. Depending on the age of your disposal, you might want to call around to local service technicians to see if it makes sense to replace the coupling, or if you are better off replacing the entire disposal.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/15/2008
From: robertridener
Message:
i turn my shower off and i hear some thing crack
____________________ Date: 1/15/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear robertridener:
Without hearing it myself, its hard to tell exactly what is causing the "crack" sound that you are hearing when you turn off your shower.
But if I had to guess, I would say that the sound is caused by a "water hammer" in your plumbing system. A water hammer is caused by the pressure shock that is created when there is a sudden change in velocity of a liquid flowing through a pipe (like when you close the valve on your shower). A water hammer is very bad for your piping system, and you should get it eliminated.
Eliminating a water hammer in your plumbing system will depend on the configuration of your system. For example, do you already have an air chamber in your plumbing (which is there to help eliminate water hammers), that has filled up with water and is therefore not working properly? So I'm afraid that you will likely need to bring in a trained plumbing professional to help you.
One test that you can try on your own is to turn off the water in your shower very slowly, and see if you still hear the "crack" sound.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/16/2008
From: brent
Message:
My baseboard radiators make a loud bang when the heat comes on in the bedroom. I suspect it is like water hammer. How do I fix it?
____________________ Date: 1/16/2008
From: lstraughte
Message:
what is wrong with my garbage disposal it leaks water from the base when water is drain with or without the motor running?????
____________________ Date: 1/16/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Brent:
You say that you hear the bang noise when your baseboard radiator turns on. As such, the noise is probably not coming from a water hammer (which more typically occurs when a valve suddenly closes).
Here are some potential causes of the bang noise that you are hearing:
1) A pipe to or from this baseboard radiator that is running through a hole in a wall, etc. that is too tight, which doesn't allow sufficiently for the pipe's thermal expansion.
2) Pipes not supported properly, such that when they turn on, they bang into one another or into other things.
3) The zone valve is installed backwards.
4) Air is trapped in the line, which needs to be bled out.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/16/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear lstraughte:
When you say that you have water leaking from the “base” of your garbage disposal, I assume that you mean where the garbage disposal connects to your sink?
Assuming that it is, then here’s how you can fix this leak:
1) Turn off power to the disposal at the electrical service panel, or completely unplug the unit.
2) Where the disposal mounts to the bottom of your sink, turn the disposal clockwise to loosen it, and then remove the unit from the mounting flange.
3) There will be three mounting bolts holding the flange on. Try to tighten these bolts. If they are loose, this could be the cause of your leak. But if they are already tight, then the leak may be caused by failed plumber’s putty that is there to seal this flange. Therefore, loosen the bolts and push the sink flange slightly above the surface of the sink. Squeeze some plumber’s putty between the sink flange and the sink, completely around the flange. When done, then tighten the mounting bolts drawing the sink flange tight to the sink surface. Wipe away any excess putty that oozes out.
4) Reinstall the disposal and turn power back on at the service panel.
5) Check for leaks.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/17/2008
From: renedye
Message:
I manage an apartment complex in Colorado that uses the EXACT same Baseboard Heating System that you have displayed in the pictures on this page of your website: http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/baseboardheating.asp
My delima is that I need replacement parts for some of the heaters in our building - - and have NO clue as to where to find these parts. I have searched and searched and searched the internet, but the only thing I've been able to come up with are obviously much NEWER versions.
Any suggestions on where I can find what I'm looking for?
Thank you for your time.
____________________ Date: 1/17/2008
From: renedye
Message:
I manage an apartment complex in Colorado that uses the EXACT same Baseboard Heating System that you have displayed in the pictures on this page of your website: http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/baseboardheating.asp
My delima is that I need replacement parts for some of the heaters in our building - - and have NO clue as to where to find these parts. I have searched and searched and searched the internet, but the only thing I've been able to come up with are obviously much NEWER versions.
Any suggestions on where I can find what I'm looking for?
Thank you for your time.
____________________ Date: 1/17/2008
From: Kenneth
Message:
I notice that my low water light will come on sometimes and my furnace will not heat up the house even though the water level show sufficient amount of water. But when I flush out the water and reestablish the water level the furnace will kick in and the baseboards will began to heat up again. It does not happen often but sometime I have to flush water out more than usually when the water light come on I would like to note that I do not have an auto feed and that every once in a while I would have to fill and flush water out of the furnace. Could this be from a build up of rust in the pipes that cause the low water indicator to come on and shut the furnace? If so can this be clean out other then continuing to draining and flush water out of the furnace ?What do you think is causing this to happen. You information is greatly appreciated.
____________________ Date: 1/17/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Kenneth:
Yes, your problem with the your furnace shutting down could be caused by rust and sediment affecting your low water level cut-off gauge.
If the boiler and the low water cut-off gauge are not flushed of sediment, the low water cutoff could hang up on the sediment. You should follow the appropriate procedure for your particular furnace system to drain and flush your boiler. And as part of your annual inspection and service, a trained service technician should take the low water cutoff apart to manually scrape and clean the walls of it, and to also clean the sight glass.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/17/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear renedye:
I wish we had gotten your posting two months ago! The house in the picture on the baseboard heating page of our Maintenance Library was completely demolished down to the foundation, and the baseboard heating fixtures were either donated to an inner-city building resource charity, or they we sent to recycling.
But here's a link to a site that has a list of names and contact information for suppliers of baseboard heating fixtures:
http://www.traditional-building.com/article/radside.htm
One thought is that you might want to make a copy of the picture from our Maintenance Library webpage, and then email it to the companies that you talk to from this supplier list. Once they see it they could not only tell you whether they carry this model, but if they don't, they may still recognize it (from being in the business), and could hopefully direct you to the manufacturer who makes it.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/18/2008
From: Kenneth
Message:
Dear Home-Wizard,
The explanation you gave me for my furnace yesterday is right on point the sediment in the glass and water level gauge is just as you describe. I will have a technician come to clean it out.
Thank you very much.
Kenneth
____________________ Date: 1/18/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Kenneth:
Thanks for the feedback!
Glad that we could help you with this.
If you have other home maintenance questions come up, just let us know.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/18/2008
From: sue in pa
Message:
we just moved into a very old home.we have baseboard gas heat and the first floor is quite cool,while the second floor is very warm.the thermostat is set at 62 degrees .someone told me to bleed the heater but i can't find a valve.can you help me.
____________________ Date: 1/19/2008
From: germil84
Message:
how to thaw frozen water pipe
____________________ Date: 1/19/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear germil84:
The first step in thawing out the frozen water pipe in your home is to locate the main water shut-off valve for your house. It is typically locate just inside your house near where water supply first comes into your house. If you are on public water supply, then this valve will be right downstream from your water utility’s meter. Make sure you have clear access to this valve, and that it is not obstructed by boxes, storage materials, etc.
The reason you will want to locate this valve is that if during the thawing process of your frozen pipes, that the ice blockage turns out to be upstream of where the pipe has cracked, then you will want to be able to shut off your main water supply ASAP.
The next step is locating all the locations where pipes have frozen. Go around your house and open up each faucet, flush each toilet, etc. If water does not come out (or just comes out in a dribble), then you likely have a frozen pipe located in the line coming to this faucet. Even if you have found one area of frozen pipe, it is a good idea to take an additional minute to check to see if there are other areas that have been affected by the same freeze.
The next step is to try to find the specific area in your piping where the frozen blockage is occurring. Open up the faucet where you have found that water is not coming out. Follow the pipe back from the faucet to where it runs through cold areas such as an exterior wall, unheated crawl space, cabinets, or in some cases an unheated basement if the pipe is near an outside wall. Sometimes the frozen area of the pipe will be frosted or have ice on it. If the situation is getting critical the pipe may be slightly bulged or look slightly cracked.
There are two kinds of situations that you might have to deal with: 1) the frozen pipe is exposed, where you can work on it; or 2) the frozen pipe is behind a wall.
If the frozen pipe is exposed, then there are several techniques that you can use to thaw it out. We recommend that you do NOT expose your pipe to anything hotter than you would put on your hand. Heating up a pipe too fast, for example using a torch, can actually cause the pipe to rupture from the steam that is produced and is potentially trapped between frozen sections of the pipe.
A couple of good choices for heating up your frozen pipe are:
- Hair dryer.
- Hot towels (just keep replacing them as they cool off).
- Space heater.
- Light bulbs, or better yet, a heat lamp.
- Well-grounded heating pad.
On trick you can use to speed up the process is to place tin foil or a cookie sheet behind the pipe to help reflect back the heat from your hair dryer, heat lamp etc., to the back side of your pipe.
If you find that you frozen pipe is behind a wall or ceiling, then you’ve got a little different problem on your hands. But you’ve got several options here:
- Place a space heater or fan near this section of your wall or ceiling, and allow warm air to circulate around this area.
- Use lamps or better yet, heat lamps to warm up this section (keep them back at least 8-18 inches from the surface).
- Turn up the heat in your house and wait (but if its cold outside and the frozen pipe is on an outside wall and inside of a cabinet, it may be a very long wait).
Note that the techniques that we described above can be used regardless of whether you have plastic or metal pipes in your home.
Hopefully this helps you with safely thawing out your frozen pipe.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/19/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear "sue in PA":
Regarding your question of how to bleed air out of your baseboard hot water system, you can find the answer to this on our Baseboard Heating System Page of our online Maintenance Library:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/baseboardheating.asp
However, the fact that you say it is a very old house, and that the second floor is warm and the first floor is cool, makes me wonder if part of your problem might be due to poor insulation.
As you probably know, heat rises. So if your first floor is drafty (for example, from poor weatherproofing and sealing around external doors), and there is no insulation in the flooring/ceiling between your first and second floors, then the heat could be rising up out of the first floor (making it feel cooler) to the second floor (making it feel warmer).
So you might also want to consider weatherproofing and caulking your doors and windows. And if the doors and windows don't have storm doors and windows, you might want to add these. And finally, if they are very old, you might even want to consider upgrading them to higher insulation ratings.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/19/2008
From: aldoanddiane
Message:
Is there a product on the market that you can use to refinish diswasher baskets? They have rust on the plastic.
____________________ Date: 1/19/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear aldoanddiane:
You may not need to actually refinish your dishwasher baskets, but rather, it could be that you just need to remove the rust scale from them.
If you go to the Dishwasher page of our online home Maintenance Library, under Maintenance Task #1 we describe how to use "Tang" brand orange drink to remove rust scale from your dishwasher baskets: http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/dishwasher.asp
Hopefully this will work for you. If not, just let us know.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/19/2008
From: aldoanddiane
Message:
Thanks for your reply, but the diswasher baskets are in need of re coating the rubberized plastic on the baskets. I need to clean the rusted area and then re do with a plastic coating. Is there such a product out there I have not been able to find one. Thanks aldo
____________________ Date: 1/19/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear aldoanddiane:
I see. It's not rust scale on the coating of the basket, but rather its that the plastic has deteriorated, and its the metal frame below the pastic that is showing through, and this is what has rusted. Right?
In a case like this, I would suggest that you contact the manufacturer of the your dishwasher (just do a Google search on the brand name, and they should have an "800" number for customer service). And ask them what they recommend for your dishwasher. It will need to be something that is obviously water-proof, but it will also need to be able to withstand high temperatures. Maybe if they are nice, they will even send you a replacement basket, or at least have a reasonable price for replacements.
If this doesn't help, just let us know, and maybe we can come up with something else to help you.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/21/2008
From: confused
Message:
Upstairs radiators are cold and down stairs are hot. Just repair recirculating pump and still no heat upstairs. Bleed all radiators and no heat upstairs.
____________________ Date: 1/21/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear confused:
Since you have already repaired your circulator pump, and you are not getting heat in only one zone of radiators, then here are a couple possible causes of why you are not getting heat in your upstairs radiators:
1) It could be possible that you have dedicated circulators for different heating zones in your home. If so, you should check to see if the circulator for your upstairs radiators has failed.
2) If not, you should check the zone valve that serves your upstairs radiators. The water pipe should be hot both upstream and downstream of this zone valve. If the valve is bad or stuck, it will be hot upstream of the valve, but then cool downstream of the valve. (Upstream refers to the piping that is in the direction of the boiler)
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/21/2008
From: billsfishing
Message:
Hi, I have a propane gas insert. I think it is ventless. The box has no openings in it. My problem is, it gives off a odor. I'm not sure how to explain the odor, propane? I'm not sure, but I don't like the smell. Help
____________________ Date: 1/21/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear billsfishing:
We recommend not taking any chances with odors from a propane gas fireplace. You should contact the manufacturer of your particular gas fireplace, and get a list of qualified service technicians in your area. And if it were me, I'd be slightly opening a window in the room with the fireplace, to provide fresh air until you know what the source of the smell is.
If your fireplace is brand new, and the smell is somewhat metallic, it could be typical for a unit that is heating up the first several times. But it is better to find out for sure from a qualified service technician for your specific unit.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/24/2008
From: dougdenton
Message:
how do i get ipadress for x
____________________ Date: 1/27/2008
From: sisterlinda01
Message:
we're triing to take off the back of our washer ( model# 110,92283100 )to find out if the belt is broken??
____________________ Date: 1/27/2008
From: JD
Message:
Is it normal to see the coils of the dryer glow red, behind the screen on the inside, upon opening the dryer in middle of a cycle?
____________________ Date: 1/27/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
JD:
It sounds like you have a GAS fired dryer, and what you are seeing is the "glow coil", or on some models, its called the "glow bar".
Yes, usually this will glow an intense bright yellow orange color when a gas dryer is operating. It is part of the ignitor that fires the gas which heats the dryer.
To be sure that this is what you are seeing on your particular model, you should contact your specific manufacturer.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/30/2008
From: Daleytwo
Message:
Help,, Bathroom baseboard (right next to the toilet)and three boys in the house, need I say more? have cleaned outsie and inside as much as I can, was able to take somewhat apart, cleaned all the copper pipes but, the like metal fins are impossible to clean, they bend right up, I am wondering If I can spray some odor oliminator, or cleaning products right into it.I realize I will have to do this many times,and yes it will probubly rust a bit, I can live with that. and hopefully will eventually get better. Do you have any ideas or tips?
____________________ Date: 1/30/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Daleytwo:
Having baseboard heating right adjacent to the toilet does make for some problems. But here are some suggestions that hopefully will help you.
First regarding cleaning this area, as you know the most difficult part is cleaning the "fins" on the radiator pipe. You will want to be very careful cleaning around this area, so as not to bend the fins. They work best when they are spaced evenly, and allow air to flow unobstructed through them. Rather than spraying cleaning products into the fins, which you won't be able to wipe completely out, a better alternative is to use a steam cleaner with a wand attachment. Here's a link to a company that shows how this works (we are not familiar with this particular company, but their website shows the technique): http://refreshyourhome.com/new-steamer-windows/a-Before-and-After-Pictures.html
The other thing you might want to think about, if you haven't already, is installing a "splash guard" above this section of the baseboard heating system.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/30/2008
From: BrendaJ61
Message:
I have a propane gas log fireplace that I use very rarely. I just had the tank filled, but when I turn on the fireplace, the burner lights, but the flame never gets higher than the burner. Any suggestions?
____________________ Date: 1/31/2008
From: Ken
Message:
Hi I have to replace my steam radiator air valve. The air valve I have is shape like a long cylinder but the one I have to replace it with is shape like a bullet. My question does the shape make a different in the way steam will run through my house or is it that different brand make the air valve in different shapes?
____________________ Date: 1/31/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Ken:
Are you refering to your steam radiator "air" valve which is located near the top of the radiator, or do you mean your steam radiator "pressure reducing" valve which is typically located near your boiler?
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/31/2008
From: Ken
Message:
The steam radiator "pressure reducing" valve which is typically located my boiler
____________________ Date: 1/31/2008
From: Ken
Message:
The steam radiator "pressure reducing" valve which is located near my boiler in the basement
____________________ Date: 1/31/2008
From: Ken
Message:
"More information to my question" The steam radiator "pressure reducing" valve which is located near my boiler in the basement I think this is what I was referring to it is located on the top of a pipe near the boiler and you can hear it let air out from time to time . I hope I was able to explain it better to you the part seems to go by few different name Air Valve,steam radiator valve etc..
____________________ Date: 1/31/2008
From: Ken
Message:
"More information to my question" The steam radiator "pressure reducing" valve which is located near my boiler in the basement I think this is what I was referring to it is located on the top of a pipe near the boiler and you can hear it let air out from time to time . I hope I was able to explain it better to you the part seems to go by few different name Air Valve,steam radiator valve etc..
____________________ Date: 1/31/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Ken:
Yes, you are correct, the pressure-reducing valve is also called the “automatic make-up valve” or the “feed-water pressure regulator”. The pressure-reducing valve connects the house plumbing supply system to the boiler water. It is designed to automatically maintain an adequate amount of water in the boiler at the desired pressure (12 to 15 psi).
The pressure-reducing valve can also be part of an assembly that includes a pressure-relief valve. Some types of pressure-reducing valves have a check-valve inside of them that prevents water flowing back from the heating system into the plumbing system, and as such, it acts as a backflow preventer. Note however that some towns require the backflow preventer to be separate.
Since it sounds like your new pressure-reducing valve is significantly smaller than your previous one, I’m wondering if the one that you replaced was also a pressure-relief valve or had a check-valve inside of it. If this is the case, then your system could now be potentially operating without either a pressure-relief valve or a backflow preventer. This is not good, and it NEEDS TO BE VERIFIED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. If you no longer have a pressure-relief valve or backflow preventer in your system, then you could potentially over-pressure your system or have heating system water flowing into your household drinking water.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 1/31/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear BrendaJ61:
Most gas log fireplaces allow you to adjust the flame height. To see exactly how to do this, you should look at your owner's manual (or go online to get one from the manufacturer of your specific fireplace).
But if you have not had your fireplace serviced for a while by a qualified service technician, then you should definately schedule a visit as soon as possible. I'd be suspicious as to why the flame height has gone down, and whether there are any obstructions. With gas fireplaces it is always best to be on the safe side. A qualified service technician can check things out and make sure that everything is operating properly.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/2/2008
From: chris carolan nj
Message:
I keep getting air in my system its a 4 zone system and only the top floor 1 zone gets it. I do have another zone on the top floor but that one is always fine. i bleed it and then a month later it gurgles and sounds like a faucet again so i bleed it and its good for another month...what is happening to be allowing air in? thanks
____________________ Date: 2/2/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear chris carolan nj:
If you keep getting air in your hot water heating system, it sounds like you might likely have a small water leak somewhere in your system. You should check all of the bleeder valves on your system, as this is a common place for water leaks to occur. And you should also check all of the piping, valves and fittings around your boiler for signs of water leakage. Hopefully, there are no water leaks occuring in any of the piping anywhere inside of your walls, as this can cause major problems related to pests, etc.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/2/2008
From: chris carolan nj
Message:
I have hot water baseboard heat with only a bleeder valve on the boiler..I had a professional come out a month ago and he said it was just air and made the system work great but a month later its loud again i bled it today and it had alot of air but now its whisper quiet...No signs of leaks anywhere..All 3 other zones all are quiet and work great..just this one zone...
____________________ Date: 2/3/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear chris carolan nj:
It sounds like you have a stubborn problem with air in one of the 4 zones of your baseboard heating system.
A couple of thoughts for things that you might want to check:
1) In the zone that you are having problems with, it sounds like it is on the second floor. Can you find any bleeder valves anywhere along this zone, where you can bleed the air out of this zone?
2) When you are bled your system using the valve at the boiler, was your boiler cold (that is, that it had been off for at least 3 hours)?
3) Are you able to bleed air out of the top of your boiler, for example through a pressure relief valve. Remember, always be very careful whenever you are bleeding air out of your heating system, as the water can be scalding hot.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/3/2008
From: kevin j.
Message:
Determine if Drano is an acid or base and describe how it works to clean clogged drains.
Describe the process of naming binary and oxyacids from a given chemical formula.
Describe the process of creating the chemical formula of a binary and oxyacid from a given name.
Acids and bases are classified in several different ways based on specific characteristic chemical behaviors. What characteristics are used to group acids and bases into the following categories:
Arrhenius acid:
Arrhenius base:
Bronsted-Lowry acid:
Bronsted-Lowry base:
Lewis acid:
Lewis base:
Describe why you can consume vinegar while this is not recommended with a dilute solution of
battery acid.
List 3 aqueous bases and three aqueous acids, ranking them from strong to weak.
Strong
Weak
Bases
1.
2.
3.
Acids
1.
2.
3.
The term “protic” refers to protons (hydrogen ions). What is meant when an acid is referred to as
monoprotic, diprotic, or triprotic? Give examples to illustrate your explanation.
The Bronsted-Lowry definitions of acids and bases provide a basis for studying proton transfer in acid-base reactions. Two terms, conjugate acid and conjugate base, are a part of the nomenclature associated with this study. What are conjugate acids and bases? Provide a reaction formula equation to illustrate your answer.
Ka and Kb are mathematical constants derived from the equilibrium concentrations of conjugate acids and bases found in aqueous solutions as compared against the equilibrium concentrations of the parent acid or base. How do these constants relate to the relative strengths of a series of acids or bases?
Combining a strong acid with a strong base results in a neutralization reaction. Why is the term “neutralization” applied to this reaction?
Acid rain creates problems with crop production. Using your understanding of how acid rain develops and how it hinders agricultural processes, propose a means for eliminating the acid rain problem.
What is meant by “the self-ionization of water”?
What is the difference between a hydrogen ion, a hydronium ion, and a hydroxide ion, and how are they produced when water self-ionizes?
How is the Kw constant developed, and under what conditions is it valid?
Using the Kw equation, how is it possible to determine whether an aqueous solution is acidic, basic, or neutral?
There are several ways to express the acidity or basicity of a solution. Probably the most common means is by using pH. How is the numerical value of pH determined, and how does its magnitude relate to acidity or basicity?
How might you use an acid-base indicator to determine if the pH of the water in your fish tank was suitable for your pet fish? Should the environment for fish be acidic, basic, or neutral? What indicator might you use to determine if your tank is suitable? How might a tritration be useful in this process?
The endpoint of bromothymol blue is at around a pH of 7. The equivalence point of acid Solution A and basic Solution B is at a [H+] = 1.2 X 10-7. Is this a good indicator for this titration?
Given the same solutions as the previous question, would methyl orange be a good indicator for this titration? Explain your answer.
The concentration (molarity) of an acid solution is not the same as the strength of the acid. What is the difference.
>>>>>i just wanna know how good you are!!!!!!
____________________ Date: 2/3/2008
From: chris carolan nj
Message:
I did bleed the system hot not but was not running for 20 minutes..I did just open the zone valve and the drain and pushed the little lever to allow more water to rush in around 25 psi...you could hear the air coming out of it but its still running quiet day 2 as for any bleeders i haven't seen any on the baseboards thru out the house.....
____________________ Date: 2/3/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Kevin J:
It looks like you are you are working on the Burlingame HS WebQuest:
http://bhs.smuhsd.org/bhsnew/academicprog/science/vaughn/ChemDocs/acidbasewebquest.html
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/3/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear chris carolan nj:
Well I guess the good news is that your problem zone has been quiet now for 2 days.
If your system was only off for 20 minutes when you last bled it, then it probably had not had time to cool down completely. So if the problem comes back, then one option that you still have is to try to let your system cool completely down (off for at least 3 hours) before you bleed it.
And I assume that when you inspected the problem zone for leaks and bleeders, that you removed the baseboard covers to see if there were any bleeders that might have been hidden by the covers?
If you still have problems after trying the above, please let us know, and we'll try to figure something else for you.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/4/2008
From: KEN
Message:
THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY ON THE AIR VENT I FOUND OUT THAT THE VENT I HAD WAS THE SAME KIND BUT IT WAS AN ADJUSTABLE AIR VENT. BUT TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE I REPLACE MY AIR VENT WITH THE EXACT SAME ONE THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP
____________________ Date: 2/4/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Ken:
. . . you are very welcome.
Thanks for the feedback! And we're glad we could help you.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/4/2008
From: barbev
Message:
which radiator valve is better ? automatic or manual for baseboard heating system
____________________ Date: 2/4/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear barbev:
I'm not sure exactly which radiator valve that you are referring to for your baseboard heating system, so let me run down all of the valves for you:
o Bleeder valves (for purging air out of the system): these should be manual valves.
o Make-up water valve (for allowing water to come into the system to replace lost water): this valve should be an automatic valve.
o Pressure relief valve (for releasing water when the system pressure becomes to high): this valve should be an automatic valve.
o Zone valves (for shutting off water to a particular heating zone): there are the automatic valves that are controlled by the thermostats for the various zones, and then there are also manual valves which allow you to shut off zones independently.
If this doesn't answer your questions, just let us know.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/5/2008
From: C Bower
Message:
My washing machine does not start even when it is on the right setting, the button is pulled and the top is closed. If I close it hard, jank it around... eventually it will start... what is wrong?
____________________ Date: 2/5/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear C Bower:
It sounds like there is something intermittent that is keeping your washing machine from turning on. That is, possibly a bad connection of some sort, which is why it turns on after you "bang it around" a lit bit.
So here's a couple of things you might want to initially try:
1) There is door switch that must be engaged for your washing machine to turn on. If you look around the door to your washing machine, you should see something that looks like a pin that goes in a slot. If this switch is loose, or not connecting properly, then it makes the machine think the door is not closed, so it can prevent it from turning on. This switch could also be "gunked up", and need to be cleaned to work properly.
2) Carefully check to see if the plug for your washing machine is securely plugged into your outlet.
If these don't work for you, just let us know, and we can give you some other things to try.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/6/2008
From: Laura Flowers-McLinn
Message:
I just filled up the sink with onions and other produce and turned the garbage disposal on. The water will not go down now and the stuff is in the sink. It is chopping it all up, it just won't go out. What is wrong? WHat can I do?
____________________ Date: 2/6/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Laura Flowers-McLinn:
If your garbage disposal is running fine, that is, if the motor is turning freely when you turn the switch on, but the water is not going down the sink, then the culprit is likely a clog in the drain pipe coming out of the bottom of the garbage disposal.
The first thing you should try is to use a toilet plunger to loosen whatever has clogged your drain pipe. NOTE: Do NOT use a plunger if you have put any drain cleaner chemicals into your sink, as you do not want to risk any of it splashing on you. But if you haven't put any chemicals in yet, then its alright to use a plunger.
If you have a dual sink, then use wet rags or towels to stop up the sink that does not have the disposal. Place the plunger over the disposal opening. If the plunger is not completely under at least about 3-4 inches of water, then add some more, so that the plunger will have a good seal. Then push the plunger strongly up and down.
If this does not get your water flowing freely, then the next step is to try using a product like Drano, which is "guaranteed" to get your drain flowing again. Well actually, by "guaranteed" they mean that if it fails to clear your clog, then they will gladly refund what you paid for their product (so save your receipt). Depending on what is clogging your drain pipe, it may actually require a professional to remove the obstruction if Drano doesn't work. But a product like Drano is a great place to start.
Note: Drano claims its products are safe for garbage disposals, with the exception of Drano Kitchen Crystals Clog Remover. Please remember to READ ALL DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY. In particular, you do not want to turn on your disposal and have Drano splash back on you.
Hopefully either the plunger or Drano will solve your clog problem, but if you want to avoid this kind of problem with your garbage disposal in the future, you should follow the routine maintenance tasks for your garbage disposal that are described in the Home-
Wizard Maintenance Library: http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/garbagedisposal.asp
And please remember, NEVER put your hand into your garbage disposal. Even if it is unplugged, the blades are very sharp and can cut your fingers.
Hope this helps.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/7/2008
From: Chris carr
Message:
can you tell me where I can buy the metal clips that control the heat louver. Our home was built in 1962 and many of our clips are missing. We cannot find these clips anywhere. Other parts would be helpful to. We need joiners, etc. Thank you for your time.
____________________ Date: 2/7/2008
From: carr1818
Message:
We are looking for the metal clip that holds the heat louver in place. Our home was built in 1960 and many of our clips are missing. Do you know where we can purchase these and other related parts for these older baseboard heating elements? Thank you for your time.
____________________ Date: 2/7/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear carr1818:
here's a link to a site that has a list of names and contact information for suppliers of baseboard heating fixtures:
http://www.traditional-building.com/article/radside.htm
If you are still not able to find what you need, just let us know, and we'll see if we can find something else to help you.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/10/2008
From: boyfriend proving girl wrong
Message:
Do you fill washer with water and soap before clothes or after?
____________________ Date: 2/10/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear “boyfriend proving girl wrong”:
Well, I debated whether it would be better to wait until after Valentine’s Day to answer a question from “boyfriend proving girl wrong”. But nonetheless, here goes . . .
The answer is that it depends.
First, you should check with the owner’s manual for your particular style and brand of washing machine. Sometimes these instructions will also be printed on the inside of the door to your washer.
And if this is not available, then in general it depends on what type of detergent that you are using:
· Powder: put the powder in first, let the water fill up about halfway (depending on the size of your load) so that it can dissolve, then add your clothes.
· Liquid: since liquid detergent will easily mix in with the water, you can add it at anytime. However, if your detergent has bleach in it, then you will not want to put the liquid in first, since having your clothese sitting on top of the bleach could cause some unwanted discoloration.
· Bleach: wait until after your washer starts agitating, then add your bleach or use your bleach dispenser.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/10/2008
From: cold inside
Message:
water shoots out of my steam release valve on my one pipe radiator system. what do I do?
____________________ Date: 2/10/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear "cold inside":
If your problem is water squirting out of an AIR vent, accompanied by hissing noises, then this indicates that the steam valve has not been shut off tight or that the steam valve has a worn-out seat.
If its not your AIR vent, just let us know where the vent is located, and what the vent looks like, and we can try to help you further.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/11/2008
From: madelarge
Message:
My heat and water is ran by gas. The lights went out and the pilot light went out on the hot water heater. I was able to ignite it but the heat is not igniting. Both look like they are using the same gas line.
____________________ Date: 2/11/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear madelarge:
It sounds like you are still getting gas supply, since you were able to relight your hot water heater.
When you say that "the lights went out and the pilot light went out", did you mean that the power in your home went out? Or did you mean that the pilot lights went out? If it was a power failure, have you checked whether the fuse or circuit breaker has tripped on your furnace? Are you exactly following your manufacturer's recommended procedure for relighting your furnace, (which could be a different procedure from your water heater)? The relighting procedure should be fastened somewhere on your furnace. It could also be that the thermocouple has failed on your furnace.
Remember, if you smell gas in your house, do not turn any lights on or off, and do not try to shut off the gas leading to the furnace. Get out of the house, leaving the door open, and immediately call the gas company or the fire department to report a leak. Do not re-enter your home. Do not use the phone or your cellphone from inside the house.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/11/2008
From: JC
Message:
One day my garbage disposal system was working fine, the next, I can hear the motor faintly trying to run but disposal does not move. Anything I can do before calling a plumber???
____________________ Date: 2/11/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
JC:
Have you tried unplugging the power from your disposal, and then using an allen wrench in the bottom of the unit to turn the rotor back and forth to dislodge what could be stuck in it?
Remember, NEVER put your hand inside of a garbage disposal, even when its turned off, as the rotor blades are very sharp.
For routine maintenance to help keep problems like this from happening to your garbage disposal, please look in our online Maintenance Library.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/12/2008
From: Corrine B Hinkle
Message:
We have had tile floors installed. The grout has been sealed twice at installation. Still, the (lght-colored)grout gets dirty and I cannot get it clean. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for your consideration
____________________ Date: 2/12/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear randchinkle:
Here is a webpage that gives a good description of how to clean tile grout:
http://www.mrscleannw.com/tips/grout-cleaning.html
Which describes the best way to clean grout (i.e., using a mixture they describe of baking soda, vinegar, ammonia and water, and then using a wet/dry vacuum to pull the dirt out of the porous grout after applying a cleaning solution).
If this still doesn’t work for you, then it may be possible that your grout has become stained (especially since you say it is light colored). If it has indeed gotten stained, then you have a couple of options: 1) you can use a tool called a "grout saw" to gently remove the top layer of grout, then re-grout your tile with clean grout; or 2) tile stores sell special grout stains that permanently color the grout and hide the stains.
Hope this is helpful
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/16/2008
From: AJP
Message:
Want to install a form around the one side and end of tub to obscure tub sitting on a pedastal type form.
____________________ Date: 2/16/2008
From: ndlady45
Message:
Water will not come into my Kenmore Ultra Wash dishwasher. All faucets are turned on. It will come in the side hole but not thru the arms. HELP ME!!!!!
____________________ Date: 2/16/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear ndlady45:
It sounds like your dishwasher arm may have gotten clogged.
If this is it, there are a couple of things that could have caused your spray arm to become plugged:
- debris
- lime crystals
To clear out your arm, you will first need to remove the arm. The arm is usually held by a nut, which you can remove by holding the arm and turning the nut counter-clockwise. After you have removed the arm, shake it to see if you can get the obstruction (broken glass, pieces of food, etc.) to come out.
If you notice white lime crystals clogging the holes in the arm, put some rubber gloves and some safety eye glasses on, and then you can try using an old toothbrush and undiluted white vinegar to clear out the holes. If this doesn’t work, then you might want to try a strong acidic cleaner like “CLR”. If you are seeing lime crystals building up, then this is a sign that you have hard water, and may need to consider using a water softener.
Home this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/18/2008
From: tom
Message:
how to properly drain and refill sealed hot water baseboard system
____________________ Date: 2/18/2008
From: tom
Message:
Dear Tom:
You can look in the Question and Answer section of the Baseboard Heating page of our online Maintenance Library (www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/baseboardheating.asp).
If this doesn't help you, and you still have questions, just let us know.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/19/2008
From: Nance Lee
Message:
My son knocked a radiator screw off while lifting weights in the basement. We lost a good deal of water (maybe three or four gallons). Now, one radiator in the kitchen is ice cold. The rest are warm and seem fine. Will the system replenish itself or do I need to do something (add water - how? or call a repairman) - thanks!
____________________ Date: 2/19/2008
From: Nance Lee
Message:
My son knocked a radiator screw off while lifting weights in the basement. We lost a good deal of water (maybe three or four gallons). Now, one radiator in the kitchen is ice cold. The rest are warm and seem fine. Will the system replenish itself or do I need to do something (add water - how? or call a repairman) - thanks!
____________________ Date: 2/19/2008
From: Nance Lee
Message:
My son knocked a radiator screw off while lifting weights in the basement. We lost a good deal of water (maybe three or four gallons). Now, one radiator in the kitchen is ice cold. The rest are warm and seem fine. Will the system replenish itself or do I need to do something (add water - how? or call a repairman) - thanks!
____________________ Date: 2/19/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Nance Lee:
A couple of thoughts regarding the problem you are having after you lost so much water from your radiator system:
1) Regarding your question about whether the system will replenish itself, your system should have an automatic make-up valve installed in it, which brings in fresh water as your system has loses, expansions and contractions, etc. So assuming that this valve is there, and is operating properly, you should be alright and the system should replenish itself with water.
2) However,regarding the problem you are having with no heat in your kitchen, since you have heat in you other zones, it sounds like the problem is just related to your kitchen zone. Chances are that when you lost so much water, that the kitchen zone may have filled up with air. So if you haven't already, you might want to try to bleed your kitchen radiators. If you are not sure how to do this, you can look in our online Maintenance Library, on the Baseboard Heating System page:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/baseboardheating.asp
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/19/2008
From: mljh1
Message:
I found cracking paint high on an outside wall and a bubble on the ceiling right above. When I looked in the attic, I could see frost on the underside of the roof at that point and several others and found another ceiling bubble in another room. The roof is snow-free right now, but was this an ice dam issue? Do I need to have a roofer look at it? I have been thinking about increasing the insulation in the attic. Will this help?
Thanks for your time. -M. Hart
____________________ Date: 2/19/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear M. Hart:
A couple of questions:
When you say you saw cracking and bubbling on your ceilings, did you also see any evidence of staining from water?
Did you see large formations of icicles on edges of the sections of your roof near where you saw the problems with you ceilings?
And lastly, what sort of vents do you have for your roof / attic? Are they located in your soffits, roof edges, or gables?
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/19/2008
From: Nance Lee
Message:
Thank you (sorry I accidentally posted three times - I hit refresh to see your answer!)
While all the other radiators have a similar bleed screw, the kitchen one does not (of course). It is smaller than the others and built under the counter - I can only access one side of it and there is no screw there. There is a large valve that comes out of the floor - should I unscrew that? There is also what appears to be a bolt, maybe half inch diameter, on the side in the middle (not at the top where the other screws are). It has been painted over and appears to have never been opened.
____________________ Date: 2/19/2008
From: Nance Lee
Message:
Me again! We figured out how to take the screw out of the cold radiator in the kitchen. There is a big 2 inch diameter hole now, and nothing is coming out - air or water. How long do we wait? Also the pressure gauge on the boiler reads sreo (not a good thing, but also confusing since every other radiator is working fine). Maybe that gauge never worked; I honestly don't remember looking at it once in the past 17 years I have lived here (not a good thing either!) Thanks in advance -
____________________ Date: 2/19/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Nance Lee:
I was just about to suggest that you try to carefully un-screw the bolt that was half-way up (being careful because there could be hot water squirting out). This could be a way to test if there is air or water in your kitchen radiator.
But if you are saying what you opened is about 2 inches in diameter, and there is nothing coming out, then I'm wondering a couple of things: 1) if maybe this plug is not an opening in the water jacket of the radiator, but rather a mounting bracket of some sort; or 2) if it is indeed an opening to your radiator water jacket, then if the water supply to your kitchen radiator has somehow gotten shut off.
To answer you question about how long you would have to wait, the answer is not very long. If this was an opening to your radiator (and the zone valve to this radiator was open), and your water make-up valve was operating properly, you would see air or water coming out almost immediately.
When you had the original leak when your son knocked off the radiator screw in the basement, is it possible that the zone valve for the supply to your kitchen radiator got shut off when trying to contain the leak? One way to check is when you look at the zone valves in the basement, do all of them appear to be in the same position?
The other thing that is troubling is that you were able to find bleeder valves for all of your other zones, but not for the kitchen. You said that the kitchen radiator is built under a counter, and is it possible that the bleeder is tucked in a hard to reach spot? Do you have a small mirror that you can use to see the back side of the top of this radiator?
Regarding the boiler valve reading zero but the other zones are working, it could be a bad guage as you suggested, it could also be that there is a valve in the piping before that guage that is shut, and therefore the guage is not able to read the boiler's pressure.
If the above doesn't let you solve the problem, just let us know what you find out, and we'll try some other ways to diagnose the problem.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/20/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear M. Hart:
From your description, it does not sound like a case of ice damming. But rather the frost you are seeing in the attic is likely due to water vapor from your house getting up into the attic and then during the winter this water vapor is condensing on the cold roof surfaces and then freezing. Then when the weather warms up, the frost thaws, and you have water dripping back into your house (which is likely causing the bubbling and paint cracking that you are seeing in your ceilings and upper walls). The source of the water vapor getting up into your attic must be found and stopped, otherwise you could be looking at significant problems with wood rot and mold formation.
There are two aspects to solving this problem: 1) closing off the so-called “attic bypasses”, that is, openings from your house to the attic where warm moist air can get up into your attic; and 2) reducing the high moisture levels in your home.
Regarding closing off “attic bypasses”, water vapor naturally wants to move upward and into the attic. You should inspect your attic floor and seal up any air leaks. And even if you have to pry up a few floorboards to do it, check around light fixtures and other penetrations in the ceiling. Use expanding polyurethane foam or other weatherproofing supplies to seal gaps. Also, you should inspect any ductwork that is running through your attic, and make sure it is adequately insulated, and there is no air leaking in from any of this ductwork. And if your house has been “balloon framed”, meaning that wall studs run all the way from foundation to roof eave, you may want to add blocking in stud bays to keep these cavities from being a channel for damp air to travel from your foundation up into your attic.
Regarding reducing high moisture levels in your home, example causes of high moisture levels in your home can include:
- Damp basements.
- Malfunctioning (or lack of) exhaust fans in the bathroom and kitchen for venting moisture to the outside of your home.
- Unvented gas or kerosene heating devices.
- Dryer vents that are not ducted to the outside of your home
Once you get all that warm, moist air out of your attic, the frost (and resulting condensation) should disappear.
Just an additional note: adding more attic ventilation is not the right solution. Additional roof vents allow more air to escape from the attic and that pulls more warm moist air from the house into the attic. However, having adequate insulation in the attic floor can help.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/20/2008
From: Nance Lee
Message:
OK. The expansion tank on the second floor is completely empty. The radiator in the kitchen must have created a vacuum. When I try to bleed a different radiator it sucks air IN instead of letting air out. So I am about to open the valve to fill the boiler. I am thinking I should just do it to maybe 10 feet instead of the complete 20 feet it normally is at, to go slow and not let it pressurize too much so fast that the tank overflows. Then I will probably have to bleed all the radiators too, right? Please let me know if I am on the right track. Thanks!
____________________ Date: 2/20/2008
From: M. Hart
Message:
Thank you so much. This was very informative and specific and should be very helpful. I will print this out and create a checklist to follow up on.
____________________ Date: 2/20/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear M. Hart:
. . . thanks for the feedback.
Glad that we were able to be of assistance to you.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/20/2008
From: Nance Lee
Message:
Not sure if you saw my newest question, right before M Hart's last post. Thanks!
____________________ Date: 2/20/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Nance Lee:
You system should NOT be drawing air IN. From your description, I'm wondering if it was your water make-up valve that was damaged. If your automatic water make-up valve is not operating correctly, this could explain why your system is not pressurizing properly, and why your kitchen zone has gotten air locked, and why you are not able to bleed it.
Can you tell if your make-up valve is working?
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/20/2008
From: NL
Message:
I don't think I have one? There is a valve (well, a faucet really) on a vertical pipe between the boiler and the hot water heater. When I turn it to the left, water enters the system and the pressure gauge goes up.
So far I have turned it up to about 15 feet of the 20 it should have; the kitchen radiator hissed some; I opened the bolt again and this time air escaped. Then it stopped but there is still no water. I closed it again and am waiting. Not sure what else to do!
____________________ Date: 2/20/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Nance Lee:
It sounds like the problem maybe how you are re-filling and bleeding your system. Especially since it sounds like your expansion tank is still empty (when it should be about half full after you have bled your system, or until water starts to flow out of the overflow connection).
Here is a link to a webpage that describes various hot water systems:
http://www.usace.army.mil/publications/armytm/tm5-642/chap5.pdf
Section 5-3 of this webpage describes the startup procedure for filling and bleeding your system. Hopefully by following this procedure, your entire system (including the kitchen radiator and your expansion tank) will be able to fill, and solve your problem. If not, please let me know what you find, and we'll keep working on figuring this out for you.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/22/2008
From: Nance Lee
Message:
Well, it took me about 5 hours yesterday but everything is working perfectly now! I had to start with the third floor radiators (there are 5 of them) and work down. Each time I bled off air I had to go back to the basement and repressurize to 20 feet again. I bet I did 100 flights of stairs yesterday! But eventually the kitchen radiator refilled with warm water and all of them are working beautifully. Thank you so much for your patience and that great diagram! My husband was impressed that I actually read military specs to fix the boiler system!
____________________ Date: 2/22/2008
From: jane lloyd
Message:
what oil do you use in a oil radiator? are they refillable?
____________________ Date: 2/22/2008
From: jane lloyd
Message:
what oil do you use in a oil radiator? are they refillable?
____________________ Date: 2/22/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Nance Lee:
Thanks for the feedback. We're glad to hear that this helped you to solve your problem. From your description, it sounded like it had to be related to how you were re-filling your system. And it seemed like the diagram would help for your particular system.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/22/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear jane lloyd:
Typically, an oil-filled radiator is NOT refillable.
Has yours leaked? Or were you just wondering if there is maintenance required for the oil in your radiator?
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/22/2008
From: morash52
Message:
does gas clothes dryer vent have to be vented to the outside. it is only vented to a water lent trap behind dryer
____________________ Date: 2/22/2008
From: randy
Message:
does gas clothes dryer vent have to be vented to the outside.it is only vented to a water lent trap behind dryer is this safe and ok.
____________________ Date: 2/22/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Randy:
Yes, a gas dryer should ABSOLUTELY be vented to the outside of your home.
Gas clothes dryers do not have separate flues for the byproducts of the burnt gas. These dangerous by-products of gas burning (carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, etc.) come out through the dryer vent.
And as such, you need to be sure that your dryer vent exits your home, and that there are no leaks in your vent ducting.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/24/2008
From: Susannah Graedel
Message:
We have a bathtub with a shower head. We have a shower curtain and liner along the open side of the tub. When we take a shower, water splashes onto the tiled wall. It runs down the wall and then onto the tub rim and finally down the side of the tub and puddles on the floor by the wall.
I have read about a water guiding strip on a patent website. Is anything like this or some other product that will solve our problem available on the market? Thank you very much.
____________________ Date: 2/24/2008
From: elizabeth
Message:
what is the most important information in the cronicals or narnia
____________________ Date: 2/24/2008
From: Janny
Message:
Whats the most impotant infor mation of the cronicals of narnia??
____________________ Date: 2/24/2008
From: Janny
Message:
hey its janny when are u going to answer my question its been a hour
____________________ Date: 2/24/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Susannah Graedel:
Here's a link to a website that shows a product called a "Splash Protector" that helps keep shower water that splashes against your tile from dripping down onto the tub rim, and then down on your floor:
http://www.bookofjoe.com/2006/07/splash_protecto.html
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/28/2008
From: phil
Message:
I have a radiator that is running hot even though the heat is turned off...what is that a sign of and what should I do?
____________________ Date: 2/28/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Phil:
How long does your radiator continue to run hot after the heat is turned off? If it is just a short while, this is called "pump overrun", and it is when your circulation pump continues to run to take heat away from your boiler to keep it from overheating.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 2/29/2008
From: anonymous
Message:
What year was home radiator heating systems stop being used ?
____________________ Date: 2/29/2008
From: Tiana
Message:
What year did home radiator heating systems stop being built with homes? or What year did they start introducing forced heat built with homes?
____________________ Date: 2/29/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Triana:
Regarding your question of "when did radiator heating systems stop being built"?, actually they have not stopped being built. Many homes today are still built with different types of radiator systems, for example, baseboard water radiator systems.
Regarding the second part of your question, forced air heating began being used to heat homes back around 1935, with the introduction of the electric fan being used to distribute air through ductwork in the house, and back then, the air was heated by a coal-fired furnace. Later the fuel for the furnace was replaced by oil and gas.
If you want to learn more about the history of home heating systems, then check out this website:
http://sunhomedesign.wordpress.com/2007/10/26/a-brief-history-of-heating-and-cooling-americas-homes/
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/2/2008
From: cheermomlm
Message:
Why is water pouring from the dishwasher vent into the sink?
____________________ Date: 3/2/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear cheermomlm:
If you have water pouring out of your dishwasher air vent into the sink, then it sounds like you have a blockage in your dishwasher’s waste water discharge line. And as a result, the water travels back up through your air vent.
If you look under your sink you should see a hose coming from the dishwasher that is split into two hoses by a “Y” fitting. One part of the split leads to the drain and the other goes up to the air vent connection at the rear of your sink. When your dishwasher drains, an electric pump in the bottom of your dishwasher pushes the waste water from your dishwasher to the drain. If a blockage gets formed in the line between the drain under your sink and this “Y” fitting, then when your dishwasher tries to push the water to the drain, it can’t go this route, so it instead get pushed up the other branch of the “Y”, which is the hose that goes to your air vent.
The blockage in the line to your drain is typically caused by grease build-up. To clean this out, you will need to disconnect the hose that goes to your drain, and clear out the blockage using something like a bottle brush.
Hope this helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/2/2008
From: liseleiser
Message:
Can you leave drano in pipes overnight without rinsing it down
____________________ Date: 3/2/2008
From: liseleiser
Message:
Can you leave drano in pipes overnight without rinsing it down
____________________ Date: 3/2/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear liseleiser:
Drano (by SC Johnson Wax) has several products for clearing drain pipes. Only one of their products, “Drano Build-up Remover”, is supposed to be left in overnight. All of their other products need to be flushed after much shorter times (for example, 15 minutes to an hour, depending on the particular product). You should be sure to EXACTLY FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS for the particular Drano product that you are using, otherwise you risk not allowing the product to work properly.
If you go to their website:
http://www.drano.com
they have a very good “Solution Finder” for helping you to select the product you need for the specific drain problem that you are having. And for each of their products, they have instructions that include how long they should be left in before flushing with the appropriate temperature water.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/3/2008
From: rneilan
Message:
I have a unico high velocity air and heat system.
The heat system is fired by oil.
I have three return filter vents. I am aware these filters should be changed regularly for the system to operat efficiently. However, should these filters get real dirty over a period of six months or so due to neglect etc..would it follow that the heating sytem would run overtime trying to bring the building up to the set temprature resulting in not only a higher use of electricity but also oil. If this were to occur over the winter months in New England can you estimate a a percentage the loss of efficiency. For example, as a pwercentage,how much more oil would I be burning due to the lack of efficiency. Can this be estimated? Thank You
____________________ Date: 3/3/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear rneilan:
A good rule of thumb is that dirty air filters can cost you up to an additional 10% in energy costs. Its not as much the fuel (oil) to run your furnace, but rather, its the additional electricity to push the air across filters that have higher resistance because they are dirty.
If you want to calculate more specifically what it could be costing you for your particular equipment, here is a website that describes the calculations to do this:
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_pwwi/is_200510/ai_n15704065
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/5/2008
From: NICK651
Message:
How do I replace garbage disposal blades housing on a sinkmaster 450. It looks like housing holding blades is roting?
____________________ Date: 3/6/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear NICK651:
My understanding is that the blades for a Sinkmasteer 450 are NOT replaceable.
Regarding the housing, you might want to check with the manufacturer, but I would think that this is a case where it would be better to replace the entire garbage disposal unit, rather going through the effort/cost of replacing the housing, and having the motor go bad later.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/10/2008
From: Willie
Message:
why does my hot water tape bang when i shut it off or turn it on
____________________ Date: 3/10/2008
From: Art
Message:
Other than the obvious advantage of "unlimited" hot water, are tankless water heaters more economical than a hot water tank? Assume that we're putting in a new system and typically do not run out of hot water (i.e. usage is less than 40 gallons at one time). If tankless systems are more economical to run, is electric or gas (we actually have LP) more economical?
____________________ Date: 3/10/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Willie:
I assume that you mean water "tap" note water "tape".
Since you say that you hear a bang when you turn the water ON, then your problem is probably NOT a water hammer effect in your lines (which more typically occurs when a valve suddenly closes. Please see the answer to a question back on 1/15/08 for possible water hammer solutions.
But since you hear a bang turning your water tap ON, the problem could be:
1) A pipe to this tap is running through a hole in a wall, etc. that is too tight, which doesn't allow sufficiently for the pipe's thermal expansion.
2) Pipes coming to this tap are not supported properly, such that when they turn on, they bang into one another or into other things.
3) Air is trapped in the line, which needs to be bled out.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/10/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Art:
Here is a webpage that describes the advantages and disadvantages of the various types of tankless water heaters (its about 3/4 of the way down the page):
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_heater
Unfortunately, one of the disadvantages is the economics.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/10/2008
From: anonymous
Message:
how to stop knocking of hotwater baseboard heat pipes
____________________ Date: 3/10/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear anonymous:
Regarding stopping the knocking of hotwater baseboard heat pipes, potential causes of the bangs you are hearing are:
1) Air is trapped in the line, which needs to be bled out.
2)A pipe to or from this baseboard radiator that is running through a hole in a wall, etc. that is too tight, which doesn't allow sufficiently for the pipe's thermal expansion.
3 Pipes not supported properly, such that when they turn on, they bang into one another or into other things.
4)The zone valve is installed backwards.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/13/2008
From: David Liddle
Message:
We live in an old home - built in 1860 - which has hot water baseboard heat. The problem is that some of the covers and ends are missing. Do you have any ideas where we could get replacement parts?
____________________ Date: 3/13/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear David Liddle:
Here's a link to a site that has a list of names and contact information for suppliers of baseboard heating fixtures:
http://www.traditional-building.com/article/radside.htm
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/16/2008
From: rbyford
Message:
When I run our dishwasher I hear a high-pitched buzzing sound while it's running. Also, the soap dispenser doesn't seem to be working right and the dishes are not getting clean. It's in good shape inside but is 13 years old.
____________________ Date: 3/16/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear rbyford:
It sounds like you dishwasher has some debris caught in the pump assembly. This could explain both the high-pitched noise and your unit's poor cleaning performance.
Depending on your particular model, you (or a trained technician would have to pull out the dishwasher from its installation and disassemble the lower spray arm section to check for debris in the pump.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/19/2008
From: Blackhawk3248
Message:
How do you program the timer?
____________________ Date: 3/20/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Blackhawk3248:
What kind of timer are you refering to?
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/20/2008
From: jamesbarlow8
Message:
I have a fully pumped domestic heating system and after I drained it (cleaned out with Fernox)I cannot get it to pump through the radiators,hot water is OK, I have fitted anew pump and zone valve and bled all points.
____________________ Date: 3/20/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear jamesbarlow8:
Have you checked to se if the zone valve had gotten installed backwards? This happens sometimes.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/21/2008
From: sandy_92766
Message:
not sure how to open my majestic gas fire place door to clean the glass
____________________ Date: 3/21/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear sandy_92766:
If you look on page 25 of this online guide, it explains how to open the glass of one model of Majestic Gas Fireplace:
http://www.cfmcustomercare.com/elements/uploads/files/Manual_BDHT36majestic_EN.pdf
However, if you go to this page:
http://www.cfmcustomercare.com/content/manuals/index.cfm
you can select the exact manual for your particular model of fireplace from Majestic.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/24/2008
From: lindielou39
Message:
If my pump speed is set too low it stops the noise but then my radiators wont heat up and my boiler sounds like its blowing bubbles, if i turn the pump speed up the rads will heat up but then the pump makes an awful revving sound?
____________________ Date: 3/24/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear lindielou39:
It sounds like you may have air trapped in your system. Have you already tried bleeding the air from your system? If you haven't, be sure that your water make-up valve is working so that your system can re-fill with water when the air comes out.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/25/2008
From: lindielou
Message:
I have checked my system and all the radiators are full, however am finding now that my upstairs radiators are hot but my downstairs radiators are just lukewarm??
____________________ Date: 3/25/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear lindielou:
If you are sure that you have bled all of the air out of your downstairs radiators, and you are not getting heat in only one zone of radiators, then here are a couple possible causes of why you are not getting heat in your downstairs radiators:
1) It could be possible that you have dedicated circulators for different heating zones in your home. If so, you should check to see if the circulator for your downstairs radiators has failed.
2) If not, you should check the zone valve that serves your downstairs radiators. The water pipe should be hot both upstream and downstream of this zone valve. If the valve is bad or stuck, it will be hot upstream of the valve, but then cool downstream of the valve. (Upstream refers to the piping that is in the direction of the boiler)
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/27/2008
From: Seattle house owner
Message:
Our furnace backed up/got clogged while we were out, and when we returned, there was soot and smoke EVERYWHERE. We shut off the furnace, and a professional will come fix the problem, but what do we do meanwhile to help clean out the house? We will have carpet cleaners and maids come out, but is the residue toxic or carcinogenic?
____________________ Date: 3/27/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear "Seattle house owner":
Sorry to hear about your furnance problem. What a mess.
Regarding your question about the toxicity of the soot that is now throughout your house, unfortunately, this is beyond our expertise.
However, what I might suggest is that you contact your insurance company and ask them for a recommendation for a list of specialists in this area (typically their policies are not to recommend any one in particular, but they should have a list of preferred professionals). A home insurance company of course deals with this kind of problem all of the time, and I personally had a similar situation to yours, and found my insurance company to be very helpful in finding an expert.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/30/2008
From: SANDY KLEINHENZ
Message:
SELF-CLEANING MATERIALS TO USE FOR CLEANING WATER IN WATERBEDS......AMMONIA,PEROXIDE?????
____________________ Date: 3/30/2008
From: Michelle
Message:
I have a baseboard heating system in my apartment. While I was out of town, I was informed by my landlord that the pipe froze and burst. One window was barely open. My apartment is always very warm and as a result I have never needed to put on the heat, and always have a window slightly open. The window was open for 4 months of winter without incident and my apartment remained warm. I noticed after the repairs, some sort of valve was replace approx 5 feet down the pipe from where the pipe burst. I have never seen the burst pipe and I was wondering if there could be any other reason for the pipe bursting.
____________________ Date: 3/30/2008
From: anonymous
Message:
no message
____________________ Date: 3/30/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear SANDY KLEINHENZ:
You should add "water conditioner" to your water bed every six months to keep the water in your water bed from causing problems such as algae growth, etc. Contact your local water bed dealer to find a product that is especially designed for your particular type of water bed.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/30/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Michelle:
Was the pipe that burst in an outside wall or behind a cabinet that was on an outside wall?
If so, these are areas that can get much colder than other parts of your apartment. Especially behind cabinets where they can be very little air circulation.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/31/2008
From: joew
Message:
My boiler (steam heat) is always getting too much water causing radiators to overflow.I fill per sight glass,could water feed valve be faulty .
____________________ Date: 3/31/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear joew:
Have you tried testing the pressure and operation of your auto-feed valve?
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/31/2008
From: joew
Message:
My boiler (steam heat) is always getting too much water causing radiators to overflow.I fill per sight glass,could water feed valve be faulty .
____________________ Date: 3/31/2008
From: joew
Message:
The boiler is not fed with a auto fill,I manually have to feed it to proper level.Then it gradually overflows radiators.Would a new shut off solve the problem? I cant think of any other way the boiler is getting water .THANKS
____________________ Date: 3/31/2008
From: joew
Message:
The boiler is not fed with a auto fill,I manually have to feed it to proper level.Then it gradually overflows radiators.Would a new shut off solve the problem? I cant think of any other way the boiler is getting water .THANKS
____________________ Date: 3/31/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear joew:
Before you replace your make-up water valve, one other thing to check is your expansion tank on your system.
When a hot water heating system heats up, the water in the system expands, and since it is a closed system, this expanded volume of water has to go somewhere. This is why hot water radiator heating systems have an “expansion tank” that accommodates this additional water volume. If there is a problem with your expansion tank, the water possibly has nowhere to go except out your radiator.
So you might want to check your expansion tank before you replace your water make-up valve. And remember, the water in your system is VERY HOT, so please be careful.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 3/31/2008
From: joew
Message:
I have steam heat.Is there an expansion tank?Thanks again.Joe W
____________________ Date: 3/31/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear JoeW:
Here's a link to an article on how to troubleshoot an expansion tank in a steam heating system:
http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-troubleshoot-a-hot-water-and-steam-distribution-system1.htm
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/1/2008
From: Eduardo
Message:
when troubleshooting the washer and the washer fails to fill with water you have already checked water pump for proper operation and the water pump is operational, what is you next step in this procedure?
____________________ Date: 4/1/2008
From: Eduardo
Message:
when troubleshooting the washer and the washer fails to fill with water you have already checked water pump for proper operation and the water pump is operational, what is you next step in this procedure?
____________________ Date: 4/1/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Eduardo:
There are two power-activated electronic valves in your washing machine, one for cold water and one for hot water. When your washing machine goes through it cycles, depending on what settings you are using, these valves receive power to them at the appropriate time in the cycle to open and close. In other words, when they receive power, these electronic valves open up to allow either hot or cold water to flow into your washer.
Since you are not getting water to your washer, here are some things that you can check:
1) Close the valves to the water hoses that go to your washer, then disconnect the water hoses from the washer. Then, with a bucket under the hose, open the valve to see if water comes out of the hose. Repeat for the other hose.
2) Check where the hose connects to the washer and see if the screen that is inside of the fitting where the hose connects to washer is plugged up. Be very careful if you are trying to clean out this screen, as with some model washers, this screen can be very difficult to replace.
3) If this inlet screen is clear, then the next thing to check is the electronic valve that controls the hot water (often called a "solenoid" valve). Testing the solenoid valves for your washer is probably something that you want to ask a professional to do for you. To do it yourself you will need to unplug the power cord from the wall, get a owner's manual, and then use a multitester meter to see if the solenoid valve is reading the proper amount across the terminals of the valve (although if it reads 'infinity', then the valve is bad). But again, testing a solenoid valve on your washing machine is something that you should ask a professional to do.
Hopefully, it will turn out to be just a plugged screen.
Hope this is helpful for you.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/1/2008
From: GLS
Message:
The disposal and dishwasher were already installed in my home so I'm not familiar with the applicances or the install, but sometimes when running my disposal, water backs up into my dishwasher - what's up with that.
____________________ Date: 4/1/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear GLS:
Does your sink seem to be draining fine? If not, you should check to see if the drain pipe has gotten plugged, and treat it accordingly (for example, using a product such as Drano).
But if your drain seems clear, then the next thing to check is whether the house you moved into has a dishwasher drain air-gap installed.
A dishwasher drain air-gap helps to ensure proper water drainage without allowing water to siphon back into the dishwasher. It is actually required by building codes in some regions of the country.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/3/2008
From: Vic
Message:
If a multitester switch is set to the 15-volt position and the meter pointer indicates a reading of 82 volts on the 150 VOLTS scale, what is the actual voltage being measured?
____________________ Date: 4/3/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Vic:
Here is a link to a webpage that describes how to use a multitester, and what the different scales are for:
http://www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/how-to-use-a-multitester.html
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/4/2008
From: angelique
Message:
my dryer has developed a banging noise when it is running. it sounds like it's unbalanced, but it is sitting straight on the floor and nothing inside seems loose. is there something i can do to fix this?
____________________ Date: 4/4/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear angelique:
It sounds like you your dryer may have a bad Blower Wheel, which is causing the banging noise that you are hearing (especially if the banging noise continues for a few sections after you turn your dryer off).
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/5/2008
From: smreed123
Message:
Gear driven rotary heads aren't rotating. Pressure is good. What needs to be done. I can turn head manually.
____________________ Date: 4/6/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear smreed123:
What brand and model sprinkler heads do you have?
When you say "heads" is it more than one that is not operating? All of them not operating?
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/6/2008
From: simone
Message:
hi i have a gas fire and when the fire is switched off, and its windy outside, there a strong smell of gas seems to blow from the fire. this only happens when its windy outside and the fires off. is this normal?
____________________ Date: 4/6/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Simone:
No, this is NOT normal. We would suggest that you immediately contact an authorized service techician for your gas fireplace.
When it is windy outside, and blowing across the top of your chimney, it can be causing a pressure differential between the inside of your house and the outside of your house. This could be causing the gas from your fireplace to be sucked into your home. This situation is similar to problems in some homes that show up when an exhaust fan in a bathroom or kitchen causes a negative pressure differential, which can also cause gas from a fireplace to be sucked into the house, rather than venting out the chimney.
You should have your fireplace checked thoroughly for leaks, and whether it needs a fresh air make-up kit, etc.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/7/2008
From: CHERYL MCKENTY
Message:
My bathroom sink has a stopper that will not come out. (My house is 5 years old and has Moen fixtures). I have 2 questions: how to unclog it when it's slow, and, is it possible to change the system to one where the stopper is removeable? Thanks.
____________________ Date: 4/7/2008
From: Eugene Martin
Message:
I have a kenmore Refrigerator, that recently started to leak water on the inside,and turn to ice and then water, what can i do to stop it, i think the drain pipe is clog, how can i unclog it?
____________________ Date: 4/7/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Cheryl:
Regarding your first question about how to unclog a bathroom sink when it is draining slowly, if you haven't already, you might want to try Drano, by SC Johnson Wax, which is "guaranteed" to get your drain flowing again. Well actually, by "guaranteed" they mean that if it fails to clear your clog, Johnson Wax will gladly refund what you paid for their product (so save your receipt). But depending on what is clogging your drain pipe, it may actually require a professional to remove the obstruction if Drano doesn't work. But a product like Drano is a great place to start.
Please remember to READ ALL DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY. In particular, you do not want to use a plunger on your sink and have any Drano splash back on you.
Hopefully Drano will solve your current clog problem, but if you want to avoid this kind of problem with your sinks in the future, you should follow the routine maintenance tasks for your plumbing that are described in the Home-Wizard Maintenance Library:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/plumbing.asp
In particular, every six months you should treat your sink drains with baking soda and hot water. Which not only will help keep your drains flowing clear, but also is alot better for the environment that pouring Drano down your drains.
Regarding your second question, without seeing your particular bathroom sink, its hard to tell if the stopper can be replaced with a removeable one. But here is the toll-free number for Moen's customer service: 1-800-289-6636. If you can give them a description of which one of their sinks you have, hopefully they will be able to tell you what can and can't be done for you.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/7/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Eugene:
Here is a webpage that hopefully will help you diagnose the problem with the water leaking in your refrigerator (look about half way down the page):
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_4_1.asp
If this doesn't get you what you need, just let us know, and we'll try something else to help.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/7/2008
From: Dan
Message:
I have water leaking from the bottom of my garbage disposal it seems to be coming through the motor and out the bottom holes of the disposal any ideas?
____________________ Date: 4/8/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Dan:
If your garbage disposal is leaking from the bottom through the motor, then the problem is likely that it is leaking through the flywheel seal and into the motor.
If you can, remove the garbage disposer from the drain system, disassemble the unit and replace the seal, or take the unit in for service.
Remember to DISCONNECT THE POWER before doing any work around your garbage disposal. And course never put your fingers inside the unit. Even when the unit is turned off, the blades can be very sharp.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/8/2008
From: nemreh313
Message:
where does one find Tang these days? i thought it was removed from the market due to cancer causing food additives and havent seen it for a long time. can you tell me of an alternative? Kool-aid? or a lemonade mix?
____________________ Date: 4/8/2008
From: nemreh313
Message:
What can i substitue for Tang?
____________________ Date: 4/8/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear nemreh313:
I assume that you are using the Tang to clean rust stains out of your dishwasher.
And yes, the good news is that it is still on the market. For example, here is a link to where you can buy it online from Amazon.com (not an endorsement of Amazon.com, just giving an example):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/105-3190927-8233263?ie=UTF8&a=B000FIDJLY
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/9/2008
From: mdaoui
Message:
Window wells/1970's home/damp basement issues/window wells have 3 to 4 inchs of gravel in them/why is it there and would I improve conditions by removing the gravel?
____________________ Date: 4/9/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear mdaoui:
The gravel is there to help provide drainage of water away from your basement window. If this area had dirt or grass instead, then the water would sit there and the moisture would be around your window frame, etc. With the gravel there, the water flows through, and then this area dries out much quicker.
But if your problem is a damp basement, there maybe other things that you might want to consider to help keep water away from your foundation / basement, such as:
1) Window well covers: Here is a picture of a window well cover (http://icwdm.org/Images/equipment/Exclusion/windowwellcoverweb.jpg). They can be made of plastic and are relatively inexpensive. If you get a clear plastic one, it will still allow light to come through your basement window. This cover will help keep water away from your windown well and the foundation in this area.
2) Rain gutters: Maintain the gutters each spring to repair damage from snow loads and each fall to clean out leaves and debris. Add extensions to downspouts to take roof run-off water 10 ft. (min. 4 ft.) away from the foundation. Install splash blocks.
3) Grading: The soil should slope away from the house on all sides of the foundation one inch per foot for 10 ft. (min. 4 ft.). You may need a truckload of soil. Old concrete walkways, driveways or patios that slope toward the foundation should be replaced.
4) Grass: Remove flower beds, vegetable gardens, bushes and trees from around the foundations and seed the area with grass.
5) Curtain drains: Excavate a trench alongside the house and fill it with gravel to stop surface water from getting to the foundation. French drain with a perforated PVC pipe in the gravel takes surface water away from the house.
Other things beyond this can also include adding dry wells for rainwater and exterior footing drains.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/10/2008
From: john in ny
Message:
My baseboard heat downstairs will not stop running (giving off heat) even though I turn it completely off. What might be causing this problem?
____________________ Date: 4/10/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear John in NY:
If your baseboard heat will not shut off in just one zone, here's a couple of things you might want to check:
1) if this zone is thermostatically controlled, have you checked to see if the thermostat is operating properly.
2) if the thermostat is operating properly, then another thing to check is whether the zone control valve at the boiler is operating properly.
Home this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/11/2008
From: crissy301
Message:
a home repair man brother clog my kitchen pipe by rinsing his tool off afther mixing powder plaster to do the wall now my sink is clog how do i unclog my sink since the plaster mix been sitting in the pipe for awhile. thank you
____________________ Date: 4/12/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear crissy301:
If your sink's drain has been clogged by plaster mix that went down your sink, and it has been sitting there for a while, then it may have set up in the trap of your drain below your sink. You sink's drain "trap" is under your sink where the pipe makes an "S" and turns back up hill. The purpose of this is so that water gets trapped in this section of the drain pipe, and it creates a seal to keep fumes from backing up into your house from your drain pipe.
Assuming that the plaster from the cleaning of your repair person's tools has settled in the trap, then you might want to try removing the trap and cleaning it out. Here is a webpage that describes how to remove and clean a trap in a drain pipe:
http://www.mrrooter.com/plumbing/guide/drain_traps.aspx
Note: Do not remove the trap without wearing protective gloves and eyewhere if you have added any drain clearing chemicals into your sink.
If the plaster mix flowed further into your drain pipes before it settled and created a clog, then you may need a professional to run a "snake" through your drain pipes to clean it out.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/12/2008
From: Mdaoui
Message:
Thanks Great Wizard for helpful response about gravel in window wells. If my small 3x20 foot entry walk garden/situated between concret walk way and exterior wall must go, would local native grasses be just as good as that short green stuff? All other suggestions were in place with exception of this walkway and small garden. Once garden comes out, intend to use curtain drain system in this area, trying to avoid removing concret walkway. Is this a project weekend warriors can handle? I really appreciate the extra details in response to question. Thank you. I will be back. MDaoui
____________________ Date: 4/12/2008
From: Home-Wizard
Message:
Dear Mdaoui:
Regarding planting native grasses versus the "short green stuff" near your foundation, one thing that you will want to be careful is that the grasses do not grow high enough to touch any wood on your house. Otherwise this could form a pathway for pests and moisture to enter your house.
And regarding installing a "curtain drain", here is a webpage that has a good drawing for how to install a curtain drain:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/home_clinic/1275366.html
From this page, hopefully you will be able to tell if this is the kind of job that you would like to tackle yourself. If you do decide to do it yourself, be sure to install sufficient pitch on the perforated to ensure drainage and that water doesn't end up sitting in the pipe.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/13/2008
From: Frannie
Message:
is dishwasher detergent an acid a base or neutral?
____________________ Date: 4/13/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Frannie:
Most detergents are bases.
Here's a link to a page from Vanderbilt University that describes how you test whether something is an acid, base or neutral:
http://studentorgs.vanderbilt.edu/vsvs/New%20VSVS%20Site/Web%20Lessons%202006/Acids%20and%20Bases/for%20web/Acids%20and%20Bases.pdf
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/13/2008
From: mike
Message:
can i bleed my own gas lines my gas been shut off four 5 days
____________________ Date: 4/13/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Mike:
When not managed properly, natural gas can be VERY dangerous.
We would suggest that your gas lines only be bled by a licensed profession who has the experience and skills to do this.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/14/2008
From: Leesa
Message:
im looking at homes to buy in iowa the ad says utilities shut off over winter. this has baseboard heating can anyone tell me what that does to the system? would there be pipe problems because of this?
____________________ Date: 4/14/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear Leesa:
Assuming that the water from the pipes in the house's baseboard heating system was completely drained properly, then this should not be a problem.
By draining the water from the baseboard heating system during the winter, they were trying to eliminate the risk of losing power, for example, and having the pipe freeze and then potentially burst. Shutting down the baseboarding heating systems and draining the water out is actually a good idea when a home is going to be left unoccupied for a sustained period over the winter.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/15/2008
From: sea.anchor
Message:
After I run my dishwasher there is about a quater of an inch of water in the bottom when it's done. Dose this mean there is a clog and how do I fix it?
____________________ Date: 4/15/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear sea.anchor:
When a dishwasher has gone through its cycle, finding a small pool of clean water at the bottom of the tub is fairly typical. But if you are finding excessive amounts of water, then something isn’t working correctly. Some things that could be causing this problem include:
DRAIN LINE: Sometimes the drain line can get clogged where the drain line from the dishwasher meets the household drain line. You can disconnect the line and clean it out to remove the clog.
GARBAGE DISPOSAL: Sometimes when the dishwasher doesn’t drain all the way, the problem turns out to be related to the garbage disposal (if you have one). You can check the connection where the dishwasher line drains into the garbage disposal, and if it is plugged, then clean it out. Also, be sure that you garbage disposal is operating and draining properly.
STRAINER: Depending on the design of your particular dishwasher, the strainer at the bottom of your dishwasher may be plugged. To check this, turn off the power to your dishwasher and let the unit cool down. Then, depending on the design, remove the strainer (that could be located under the bottom spray arm), and carefully scrub it clean with a brush.
DRAIN VALVE / SOLENOID: Many dishwashers use an electrically controlled valve to open and close flow to the drain. If this valve is sticking or otherwise not operating properly, it could be causing water to pool at the bottom of your unit.
PUMP: The pump that forces the water into your dishwasher also can pump water out of your dishwasher, depending on your unit’s particular design. If the pump isn’t working properly, this could be the cause of your problem.
MOTOR: If the motor that drives your pump isn’t working properly or not getting power, it could be causing your water pooling problem.
TIMER: And lastly, ever once in a while, a water pooling problem can be caused if the timer on your unit isn’t operating properly, and not enabling it to drain at the proper time in the cycle.
As always, be sure that the power to your dishwasher and garbage disposal is disconnected before doing any work on them.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/16/2008
From: schultz6A
Message:
Our majestic fireplace is on for awhile and than goes off. Pilot is still on.
____________________ Date: 4/16/2008
From: schultz6
Message:
Our majestic fireplace is on for awhile and than goes off. Pilot is still on.
____________________ Date: 4/16/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear schultz6:
Does your gas fireplace have a thermostat control? If so, it is normal for it to shutoff when the room comes up to the set temperature of the thermostat, and then it automatically comes back on when the temperature in the room drops below the set temperature.
One issue that homeowners sometimes find with gas fireplaces (versus gas logs) is that gas fireplaces are so efficient (especially if they also have a blower) that they heat up a room very quickly and therefore end up cycling on and off frequently. One remedy for this is that some gas fireplaces have attachments that allow you to safely vent heat into other rooms, which allows the fireplace to run longer in the room where it is located.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Date: 4/16/2008
From: schultz6
Message:
No it does not
____________________ Date: 4/16/2008
From: Home-Wizard.com
Message:
Dear schultz6:
Since you say that your gas fireplace does not have a thermostat, here are some possible things that could be causing your fireplace to cycle on and off:
1) You could have a high limit on your vent pipe, which is there for safety reasons.
2) Your fireplace door could have a switch that must be in the closed position to operate, and if the door isn't fitting snugly, or if the switch is faulty, then the heat of the fire can move the door, causing the switch to go off. As it cools down, it moves back and makes contact with the switch again.
3) There could be a loose wire somewhere in your system.
4) The pilot light sensor may not be reading the pilot light properly when your fireplace is running up at temperature.
With the exception of possibly the door, the other items are fairly complicated to diagnose and correct, and we would suggest that you have a trained professional inspect your unit.
If it helps, here is the toll-free customer service number for Majestic: 1-800-668-5323
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from: CHRISTINE on 4/18/2008
HOW DO I SHUT OFF THE HEAT FROM THE HEATER?
____________________ Response From Home-Wizard.com on 4/19/2008
Dear Christine:
To answer your question about how to turn off your heater, I'll first need to know what type of heating system that you have.
For example, is it a radiator or baseboard heating system? Or is a forced air distribution system?
And does your heating system have separate thermostat controls from your air conditioning system (if you have central air conditioning)?
Just let me know, and then I can hopefully give you the correct advice for your particular type of heating system.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from: ThrDickinson on 4/19/2008
Our Kenmore dryer model # 110.92822102 will not heat up enough to dry the clothes, I have to reset at least five times before its finally done. Can you advise what we need to check? Thanks
____________________ Response From Home-Wizard.com on 4/19/2008
Dear ThrDickinson:
The first thing to check is whether you are getting good air flow coming out of your vent pipe. If the vent pipe has gotten plugged with lint over time, then this will restrict the air flow through your dryer, and as a result, it will keep your clothes inside from heating up.
Also, this lint build-up is can contribute to dryer fires.
If you are getting good air flow, please let me know if you have a gas or electric dryer, and I can suggest other things to check.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from marv schoenberg on 4/20/2008
why do apartment house radiators cause so much dust. my windows are shut so it has to be coming from the radiators. How can it be stopped.
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 4/20/2008
Dear marv schoenberg:
Regarding your question about why radiators cause so much dust, do you mean "radiators" as in hot water systems that heat pipes in your rooms? Or do you actually mean "registers" for hot air that blows into your rooms?
If you mean "radiators" then the dust that is being kicked up in your rooms is likely from the heat currents around your radiators, which cause warm air to rise, and when the air rises it pulls up dust from the floor, which then settles down on your furniture, etc.
For radiator heating systems, you can cut down on dust in your rooms by installing a separate electrostatic air purifier in your rooms.
If you actually mean "registers" for a forced hot air heating system, then you can cut down dust by installing a central electronic air cleaner on your blower. You can also cut down on dust by installing more efficient air filters.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from bigt on 4/20/2008
How do I install a freeze proof outside water hydrant?
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 4/20/2008
Dear Bigt:
As far as I know, there isn't a way to install a "freeze-proof" outside water hydrant. However, you can prevent an outside water hydrant or faucet from freezing in the winter by draining the water from the valve, as described on our webpage for routine maintenance for outside water faucets:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/outsidewaterfaucet.asp
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from Ryan on 4/21/2008
I have a RFSDV42 RP propane stove.It sometimes gives a poof when it shuts down. It has been professionally cleaned and set up twice in the last two years.The pilot light keeps going out. 5 times in March and April.
Why?
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 4/21/2008
Dear Ryan:
I assume from your model number that your gas stove is by Majestic. For the problem you are having with your pilot light, I would suggest that you contact Majestic at their toll-free number: 1-800-668-5323
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from Amy on 4/22/2008
I have a screen and a storm window and the same track and there doesn't seem like there is any possible way to remove either. How do I get them off?
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 4/22/2008
Hi Amy:
I am assuming from your description of your storm windows and screen, that you have what is called a "two-track" storm window system. As it sounds, a two-track storm window has two tracks. The first track has a non-sliding glass panel in the top part of the window, and in the bottom part of the window (in this same track) is a non-sliding screen panel. The second track holds a glass panel which slides up and down. And all of these glass and screen panels are removable. Other hand, there are also what are called "three-track" storm window systems, and this is where the window has three tracks, and all three panels slide (2 glass, 1 screen), allowing ventilation from the top or bottom of the window. But from your description, since you said the screen and storm window are both in the same track, I'm assuming that you have a "two-track" storm window system.
To remove the screen and glass panels from their track, you should start with the screen panel on the bottom. There should be tabs on the bottom edges of the frame of the screen, and you should be able to slide these tabs inward, towards the center of the screen. If for some reason the screen got installed backwards, then these tabs will be on the outside of your house (hopefully not on the second floor). If this is the case you will need to slide these tabs from the outside of your house. While you are still holding the tabs inward, tilt the bottom of the frame of the screen towards the inside of your house and rotate the frame a little to free the top edge from the tracks. You should be able to then pull the screen out of the window. Be careful though that the top glass pane doesn't slide down while you are pulling out the lower screen, if it is not latched properly.
The next step is to slide the tabs inward on the upper glass panel to allow you to lower this panel (hopefully this panel was not installed backwards, or the tabs again will be on the outside of your house). And then as before, tilt the bottom of the frame of the glass panel towards the inside of your house and rotate the frame a little to free the top edge from the tracks. You should be able to then pull the glass panel out of the window.
Again, I've made a few assumptions based on your brief description. If the above info is not helpful for you, just provide me with some more details of your specific situation, and hopefully I can use that to get you some better information.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from Lima on 4/27/2008
My baseboards are mold, bent and squeak by much too low air from outside. Besides the air flow issue, how can I fix those flooring problem?
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 4/27/2008
Dear Lima:
Just so that I understand your question, when you refer to your "baseboards", do you mean the wooden baseboards where your walls meet the floor? Or are you referring to your baseboard heating system? Or are you referring to your hardwood floor boards?
And what do you mean by "much too low air from outside"? Are you referring to an area that is getting wet, and not having enough air circulation to dry it out?
If you can provide me with some additional information, I can then give you the best answer.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 4/28/2008
Lima:
Thank you for your clarification. I now have a much better idea of what you problem is, and can do a better job of helping you find solutions.
From you description, it sounds like you actually have two problems here:
1) how to help you fix your floor underlayment which has been damaged by moisture, and
2) how to solve the problem that is causing the excess moisture in your home, which has led to the damage to your floor.
Let's start with your first problem: what to do with your floor underlayment that has been damaged? Floor underlayment is the layer of plywood that is fastened down on top of your floor joists. And then on top of this layer of plywood goes the surface flooring, such as tile, hardwood, or in your case, carpet. Underlayment is typically made of plywood, and it is glued, nailed and screwed down to floor joists to hold it securely in place, so that it doesn't creak. And if you have tile or hardwood flooring, it helps keeps the tile and hardwood flooring level and from shifting around.
Unfortunately, it sounds like your plywood underlayment has been exposed to excessive moisture, and as a result, it has gotten both swollen and has been attacked by mold. At this point, just drying the area out is probably not going to be enough. The plywood has gotten warped, and is not likely to go back into its correct flat shape. So where it has pulled up the nails, it will likely stay up, and therefore you will continue to get the squeaking noise when you walk over it (its the sound of the nails going in and out of the wood in the floor joists as the underlayment flexes up and down).
But more importantly, since you have already seen significant evidence of mold formation, this plywood has become contaminated with mold, and even if you dry it out, the mold spores can remain in the wood, and can therefore return when the room gets humid. This can lead to health problems in your home.
So for both of these reasons, I would suggest that you carefully pull back the carpeting, remove the affected plywood underlayment, and replace it with new plywood. And you should be sure to remove all of the old glue, nails, etc. from the floor joists before you glue, nail and screw the new plywood down. So that the new plywood fits down tight on top of your floor joists.
Now for your other problem, regarding what is causing the excessive moisture that ruined your underlayment? If I understand you correctly, that you were told that you needed to add a "humidifier" to your air conditioner system (not a "de-humidifier"), even though you are living in the Pacific Northwest where it typically rains half of the year, and as such the humidity is already relatively high? And further, you have a fresh air exchanger that is bringing outside air into your home every other 20 minutes?
A couple of thoughts here. First, it sounds like you need to find a different HVAC contractor. I could understand possibly adding a humidifier to run in the winter when the air might be dry. But in the Pacific Northwest, I would not add a humidifier unless you have measured the humidity in your home during the winter and determined that it is indeed too low (you can purchase a low-cost hygrometer to measure indoor humidity). But the dry season in the PNW is so short, I would question whether a humidifier would be a good investment.
On the other hand, it sounds like the more important issue that you have in your home is DE-humidification. That is, how do you get the moisture out of the air in your home.
When an air conditioner runs, it cools the air which also lowers what's called the "dew point", that is, the temperature at which water condenses out of the air. This is why when you look at your air handler, you should see some tubing or piping that allows this water that has condensed to drain out of your house (in our Newsletter last month we had an article about how it is important to inspect this hose at least once a year to insure that it is draining properly).
So it sounds like your air conditioner is working hard to lower the temperature and remove moisture from your home, but then your installed added a humidifier that put moisture right back in.
The other problem is that, since you are in the Pacific Northwest, that your fresh air exchanger is bringing up to 90% humidity air into your home during rainy days (and of course in the PNW, you have quite a few rainy days . . . on average 155 days per year). So this is bringing a whole lot of moisture into your home as well.
This is why I suggested that you find a new HVAC contractor. It sounds like you need someone who can look at the capacity of your current heat pump and furnace, and determine:
a) do you really need a humidifier? Can it be set so that it does NOT run when the humidity outside is above a certain level?
b) how should your fresh air exchanger be set to operate? Can it be set so that it does NOT run when the humidity outside is above a certain level?
c) does your system have adequate de-humidification capacity?
I hope this is helpful Lima. If you need additional help, just let me know.
Also, please be sure to tell you friends and family about www.home-wizard.com !
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from Cindy on 5/6/2008
We have a room with a vaulted ceiling. Dark lines are starting to appear on the flat portion of the ceiling, next to the vaulted portion. The lines follow or outline the roof trusses. What can be causing this? If we paint over them, how do we know they will not come back?
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 5/6/2008
Dear Cindy:
It sounds like you have moisture leaking into your ceiling, and it is traveling along the ceiling joists, getting this area wet and likely attracting mold.
Because of the construction of vaulted ceilings, there are often number places where the roof lines intersect. And the places where the roof lines intersect they are covered with pieces of thin metal called "flashing". Over time (or if it was not installed properly), this flashing loosens up, and can allow water to come in through where the two sections of roofing meet. This could be where rain water is dripping into your ceiling, and then running down until it hits the ceiling joists.
The other possibility is that if there is not proper ventilation in your vaulted ceiling, and that when the warm moist air in your room meets the cold wood of your roof, that it causes moisture to condense out into your ceiling.
And yet another possibility is that, depending on the orientation of your roof lines (and the region of the country that you are in), that the moisture could be due to "ice damming", which is causing water to puddle on your roof, and then to seep into your ceiling under the shingles.
But to answer your question, yes, if these lines indeed are caused by mold due to moisture, then if you just paint over the dark lines they will keep coming back until you eliminate the source of the moisture.
You might want to start by talking with either a home inspector, or a qualified roofing contractor, who can inspect your particular situation and pinpoint the specific likely source of your moisture.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from carmella on 5/10/2008
I hear a whoosing sound coming from one radiator at the same time every night - I have hot water heat
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 5/10/2008
Dear Carmella:
I'm assuming that the sound that you are hearing coming from your radiator is happening when your heat comes on in the evening when the temperature starts to go down outside, and the demand for heat in your house goes up.
I suspect that the whooshing sound that you are hearing from one of your radiators is likely do to air trapped in this radiator that needs to be bled out. If this is the case, you will also notice that when its operating that the radiator will be warm on the bottom but cooler on the top.
To bleed your radiator, you will need a "bleed key" and a towel or bowl. Here is the procedure for how to bleed a radiator:
1) Turn off you hot water system (turning down the thermostat is fine)
2) Locate the bleed valve on your radiator. It will be located near the top of your radiator, typically towards the end.
3) Put your towel or bowel under the front of the bleed valve (to catch any water that drips out), and then insert the bleed key into the bleed valve and turn it counterclockwise. Don’t turn it too much; a half a turn is usually enough to allow air to start coming out. BE CAREFUL, because if water starts to come out, it may be scalding hot.
4) As you turn the radiator key, the valve will open and you will hear a hissing sound. This is completely normal and is simply caused by the air escaping. Once water begins to leak out of the radiator, then close the valve. To do so, turn the bleed key clockwise until tight.
5) Turn your central heating system back on.
You might find it helpful to watch this short video about how to bleed a radiator: http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-bleed-your-radiator
If this doesn't solve your problem, just let us know and we can try something else.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from cathi on 5/10/2008
deck
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 5/10/2008
Cathi:
The only thing that came through in your posting was just the word "deck".
If your question is what is the recommended maintenance for home decking, you can check out the Decking page in our online Maintenance Library:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/decking.asp
If you have a different question, just let us know.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from Lima Chan on 5/10/2008
How can I get rid of the hard water film on my glass shower door?
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 5/10/2008
Dear Lima:
The best thing that I would recommend for removing hard water film from a glass shower door is to use a cleaner made for glass cooktops (such as Weiman's brand cleaner) and to use a blue 3M brand scrubber cleaner.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from Donna Croswell on 5/11/2008
My mother-in-law has been turning her oil furnace off and on a couple of times a day in order to save on her oil bill. Should she be doing this? Her furnace is at least 30 years old.
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 5/12/2008
Dear Donna:
No, I would not recommend that your mother-in-law turn her furnace off and on several times a day in an attempt to say energy.
Assuming that her house is thermostatically controlled, then the thermostat (or thermostats if she has more than one) will turn the furnace on and off as needed to keep her house at her desired temperature, that is, the temperature where she has set her thermostats. As such, there is no reason for her to manually shut down the furnace.
If her interest is in lowering her energy bill, I would suggest that she looks at the Energy Saving Tips in the online Maintenance Library of Home-Wizard.com:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/energysavingstips.asp
In addition, I would suggest that she also looks at Energy Savings section of Home-Wizard.com:
http://www.home-wizard.com/EnergySavings.asp,
which will show the routine maintenance tasks that will help her save energy for her particular home.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from Lima on 5/13/2008
I did tried the glass cooktop cleaner and razor but it doen't clean it as good. Then, I tried the bleach soft cleanser with lemon, it cleaned quite well but a lot of scrub and result in scratch. Other methods I tried would be vinegar, dishwasher detergent or dishwasher no streak treatment. I even tried exfoliater, the one use to remove the dead skin for human.
anyway, thank you.
Lima
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 5/13/2008
Lima:
When you tried using the glass cooktop cleaner, did you use a blue 3M brand scrubber cleaner with it? Or did you just try using a razor blade?
Is your glass door clean now?
Sincerely
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ Question from Lima on 5/13/2008
I don't think it was 3M scrubber but I believe it was scotch brite.... and I didn't notice much clearer with Cook Top cleaner.. The razor blade does do the job but it was like square inch by square inch job and took forever, very exauhsting.
After using soft scrub the glass door is clearer with few scratches. Yet I still can see the fine spots over the glass door. I am still trying.
The scrubber you are talking about is not those "stone" ones alright? Let me buy it and try first. It it goes well I will let you know.
Thanks,
Lima
____________________ Response from Home-Wizard.com on 5/13/2008
Lima:
It sounds like the problem with your shower door glass is a particularly difficult one.
I've been doing some research for you to see what others have been successful with, and I found the following webpage that has a list of possible solutions: http://uclue.com/?xq=962
It seems that every situation is a bit different, and some products work well for a particular situation but not for others. So unfortunately, it requires some trial and error.
And yes, I did not mean the "stone" scrubbers.
I hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Grampsie on 5/19/2008
How do you remove indentations on a rug.Rearranged furniture & have been unable to puff up marks left from heavy sofa.Tried ice cubes etc to no avail .
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 5/19/2008
Dear Grampsie:
Here is a link to a webpage that will describe for you several alternative methods of removing indentations from carpeting:
http://www.essortment.com/home/indentationcarp_swrp.htm
The methods described include:
o Ice Cube method (which obviously is not working for you).
o Steam method
o Steam and Cloth method
o Blow Dryer method
Hopefully, one of these will do the trick for you.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from jim t cuff on 5/20/2008
I have an oil-fired furnace/with hot water baseboard for my ranch house. I am quite handy, and would like to vaccume out the soot from the inner furnace. is their any special type vaccume/shop-vac i need to use and bag. thanks jim
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 5/20/2008
Dear Jim:
For difficult jobs where you need strong suction, like vacuuming out a sooted up oil burning furnace, I would suggest that you look at the "Sootmaster" furnace vacuum:
http://www.cgfproducts.com/prod5frame.htm#01
I've heard some good things about the DeWalt DC500 vacuum:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=6220
But I've heard many complaints about the Stinger brand vaccum.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from jim t cuff on 5/20/2008
I have a regular 3 gallon sears wet/dry vac could i use that? thanks
jim
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 5/20/2008
Jim:
The main concern that I would have with using a small Craftsman wet/dry vacuum for vacuuming out soot from a oil-fired furnace is that the filter system may not be fine enough to keep the soot from coming through and making a mess in your house. I've heard of cases where the tiny soot particles got churned up in the air and actually setting off the fire detectors in the home.
Part of the reason that the bigger (and unfortunately more expensive) furnace vaccums have more suction power, is so they can force the air through the finer filtering system.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from jim t cuff on 5/21/2008
Great, thanks for your help. jim
____________________ QUESTION from Bob on 5/21/2008
I always forget which way cold air returns should be set! Is the lower one open in winter and the top close or is it the reverse?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 5/21/2008
Bob:
Its a good question.
The way to help keep it straight is to remember that warm air rises. And then depending on the season asking "where do I want the 'unconditioned' air to come from"?
For example, in the winter, since the air near the floor will be cooler near the floor than it will be near the ceiling, and your goal in the winter is to heat the air in the room up, you will want to draw the cool air from near the floor into your heating system so that it will be heated up.
And then alternatively, in the summer, since the air near the ceiling will be warmer than near the floor, and your goal in the summer is to cool the air in the room down, then you will want to draw the warm air from near the ceiling into your air conditioning system so that it will be cooled down.
So "summer ceiling" and "winter floor".
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Lynn on 5/22/2008
If I am replacing plaster with drywall in a room with boiler baseboard heat can I place drywall ontop of radiator, if not what needs to be done?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 5/22/2008
Dear Lynn:
When you say place drywall "on top" of the radiator, how specifically do you mean? Is that you are going to be placing the drywall over the plaster wall, and thus the drywall thickness will stick out that dimension over the top of metal baseboard cover? Or are you thinking about placing the drywall such that it will completely cover the baseboard radiator? Or is it something else?
If you can provide some more description, I will be better able to answer your question.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from pst on 5/27/2008
My lawn has a lot of seed heads in it.Will this cause lawn to become thin & sparse & will I have to replace with sod or seed.Lawn care specialist wants to apply fungicide & also is talking about a POSSIBLE brown spot disease.What can I do to have a nice lawn.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 5/27/2008
Dear PST:
It is very difficult to diagnose a lawn problem without actually seeing the lawn, but let me provide you the best thoughts that I can.
First, regarding your seed head problem, I am assuming that the seed heads that you are referring to are WEED seed heads, not grass seed heads? If they are indeed weed seed heads, then yes, you will want to remove them by mowing them down.
Regarding the need for a fungicide treatment, I am assuming that you are seeing some moldy spots on your lawn? In the spring, where there has been snow compacted on the lawn from the winter (or areas of high moisture from standing water), the grass underneath can die due to lack of air, light, etc. These areas should be raked vigorously to remove all of the dead areas. Depending on the size of the area, the surround lawn should be able to fill it in. However, if it is too large of an area, then you would need to add topsoil and re-seed.
Regarding your issue with brown spots, and again, its very difficult to diagnose without actually seeing your lawn, but one question is whether these areas could have been caused by urination from a female dog.
It sounds like you have a number of issues occurring with your lawn. One suggestion is that you might want to get a second opinion from a different local specialist, who can physically examine your lawn, test the soil, and is familiar with the specific climate and growing issues of your region of the country.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Gerald R Jenkinson Sr on 5/29/2008
Is there a gas fireplace intert unit available that is equips with co detector to shut down automatically?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 5/29/2008
Dear Gerald:
Yes, there are gas fireplace units that are equipped so that they will automatically shut down the fireplace if CO levels in the room get too high.
What you should look for are gas fireplace units that are approved by the American Gas Association ("AGA"), and that are equipped with an Oxygen Depletion Sensor (ODS). This sensor can tell how much oxygen is left in the air near the bottom of your floor. The way it works is that as carbon monoxide starts to build up in the room, it dilutes the amount of oxygen in the room. And this then activates the sensor and the gas shuts off to the logs.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Poli V. on 5/30/2008
My 450 Sinkmaster does not turn on. Is there a restart button on this model since I could not find it?
Thanks.
Poli
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 5/30/2008
Dear Poli:
My understanding is that the reset button on a Sinkmaster garbage disposal should be located on the underside of the unit.
If the reset button is pressed in, then it has not tripped. If this is the case, then you might want to check your house's fusebox, to see if you have blown a fuse for your disposal. And of course, if you have already, you might want to double-check to see if the electric switch for turning on your disposal if firmly in the "ON" position.
Lastly, if you still have problems finding the reset button, then here's the email address for Sinkmaster: Sinkmaster@sentechsa.com
And please remember, NEVER puts your hands inside of a garbage disposal at anytime.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Greg on 5/30/2008
I have some old double track storms (with nifty "roller" screens inside) over double hung windosw on a 50 year old addition to my home. I also have some awning windows with integrated storms in this addition. (I'm guessing that this is state of the art screens/storms for 50 years ago).
During a home energy audit, the windows with these storms were considered better than average for (older windows, but I'm interested in gaining a slight improvment by cutting infiltration in the storms.
The storms are still pretty tight, but there is some old gasket material in channels on the edges of the storms (where they ride in the vertical tracks for the double track, and where they seat in the storm window frame on the integrated awning window storms). The profile appears flat. This material feels like a hardened plastic and is breaking off in places.
Any suggestions for how I could go about replacing these gaskets? Obviously, finding an exact replacement material is probably impossible.
Is it possible to remove the existing material and replace it with a silicone caulking, taking care to keep a similar profile of a slight projection? Of course, I'd allow adequate curing time before reinstalling.
Any suggestions you have will be appreciated.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 5/30/2008
Dear Greg:
If you still want the storm windows to ride in their tracks, then silicone caulking will likely not work for you, as it won't remain flexible enough to give you a tight seal after you move the windows in their tracks.
However, here's a link to a company that sells replacement weatherstripping made especially for storm windows:
http://www.mdteam.com/products.php?category=224
If this isn't what you are looking for, just let me know, and we'll try to come up with something else for you.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Mike on 6/4/2008
My Maytag washer will not work on any of the cold water settings, it does run on warm and hot, but only hot water comes out from both settings. When the machine is rready to go to the cold water rinse cycle it does not do work. If I move the dial ahead to the spin cycle it will then work through the spin cycle. Any ideas?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 6/4/2008
Dear Mike:
There are two power-activated electronic valves in your washing machine, one for cold water and one for hot water. When your washing machine goes through it cycles, depending on what settings you are using, these valves receive power to them at the appropriate time in the cycle to open and close. In other words, when they receive power, these electronic valves open up to allow either hot or cold water to flow into your washer. Since you say that your cold water supply is not working, regardless of what setting or cycle your machine is in, there are four things that you can check:
1) confirm that the on-off valve for the cold water supply to your washer is in the open position, and that this is not the problem.
2) if the cold water supply valve is open, then turn it to the off position, and then disconnect the hose from the washer. Put a bucket (or place it into the washer if it will reach) and then open the cold water supply valve to be sure that water will flow out, and there are no blockages. If it flows fine, then this is not the problem.
3) check where the hose connects to the washer and see if the screen that is inside of the fitting where the hose connects to washer is plugged up. Be very careful if you are trying to clean out this screen, as with some model washers, this screen can be very difficult to replace.
4) if this inlet screen is clear, then the next thing to check is the electronic valve that controls the cold water (often called a "solenoid" valve). Testing the solenoid valves for your washer is probably something that you want to ask a professional to do for you. To do it yourself you will need to unplug the power cord from the wall, get a owner's manual from Maytag, and then use a multitester meter to see if the solenoid valve is reading the proper amount across the terminals of the valve (although if it reads 'infinity', then the valve is bad). But again, testing a solenoid valve on your washing machine is something that you should ask a professional to do.
Hopefully, it will turn out to be just a plugged screen.
Hope this is helpful for you.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from bob woytko on 6/6/2008
What is the proper way to install a metal roof and flashing that abuts to brick and is over a bow or bay window?
____________________ QUESTION from bob woytko on 6/6/2008
What is the proper way to install a metal roof and flashing that abuts to brick and is over a bow or bay window?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 6/8/2008
Bob:
Properly installing roof flashing is very important, as this an area that can easily lead to future problems with roof leaks.
Here is a link to a webpage that does a fair good job of describing how to install flashing, and includes a discussion of when the flashing need to abutt brick:
http://www.askthebuilder.com/B25_Metal_Roof_Flashings.shtml
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Bob Woytko on 6/9/2008
Dear Home Wizard,
Thanks for your prompt reply.
First of all I have very little knowledge on roofing procedures. What I trying to ask you is for my 85 year old my mother-in-law. She bought a new house 2+ years ago and a bow window leak problem was noticed shortly after wards. The builder "fixed" it shortly after, but the problem was never fixed, and we are again trying to get it fixed by the builder--who is resisting.
The roof of the bay window is metal and the builder took the roof up to the brick only, and then the original fix entailed the installation of a plastic 4" cover over the brick and the metal and both of these edges were then caulked. This to me is not a true flashing and was nothing but a problem waiting to happen.
Shouldn't the metal roofing had continued beyond the roof and gone up the bricks (therefore a combined roof and flashing)and been secured with glue and screws and been caulked?
What would the normal commercial building practice for this type of roof be? And what are some ways to now fix the problem?
Thanks for your help,
Bob Woytko
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 6/9/2008
Bob:
Its nice of you to be helping out your elderly mother-in-law.
I agree with you that from your description, I would have thought the contractor would have carried the metal flashing up the brick, and sealed the top edge.
With that said, its a bit hard to judge a particular installation situation, without physically seeing it. In other words, there may have been a logical reason why the contractor had to do it a certain way for her particular route.
Just a thought for you, we have quite a few sponsors of Home-Wizard that are certified home inspectors. Depending on where you live, we would be glad to provide you an introduction to a local home inspector. As you may know, home inspectors are trained experts in home construction practices, and in addition to reviewing her roof flashing, they could also do a safety inspection for her entire house while they are there. From my experience, I've found them to be very reasonably priced, and you get good value.
The other advantage of you contacting a local home inspector, is that depending on what they determine, you will have a recommendation to go back to your contractor with from someone who has physically seen their work.
You can also find local home inspectors at sites like: http://www.nachi.org/ or http://www.ashi.org/
Home this is helpful
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Jeff Wellington on 6/17/2008
The hose from my lpg tank to the grill freezes up after it has been on for a few minutes. Someone told me the tank is too full. If it is, how do I safely reduce the level of gas? If this not the cause, what could it be?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 6/17/2008
Dear Jeff:
When propane comes out of the tank, it converts from a liquid to a gas, and it the process it absorbs energy (which makes the surrounding materials become cold).
If you have recently filled up your propane tank, then yes, it may be possible that your tank was over-filled, and the liquid propane moving through the regulator is what is causing the freezing. And you have two options for remedying this:
1) return the tank to where you had it filled, and let them safely fix the problem for you; or
2) you can carefully let the propane burn (although it will be at a very slow rate), until the liquid level in the tank falls below the vapor outlet.
Now on the other hand, it could be possible that a small amount of water has gotten into your regulator when it was not in use, and that this needs now to be cleared out.
And yet another possibility is that your tank is not matched for the grill that you are using it for. that is, if the tank is too small for the BTU rate of the grill, then the propane would come out of the tank too fast, and therefore lead to freezing up. But if this is a standard propane tank and a standard grill, then I would not think that this would be the problem.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from CHERYL MCKENTY on 6/24/2008
My 5 year old basic refrigerator has just recently started to lose it's seal on the top corner freezer gasket. I am puzzled as to why - there is no dirt or grease, and nothing is stored above the unit that fell onto the gasket. Condensation and ice is forming on the ceiling of the freezer constantly. Short of replacing the gasket, what can be done to get the seal back, and do you have any guesses as how this can be prevented since I already keep it clean and do not instill damage? Thank you.
____________________ QUESTION from CHERYL MCKENTY on 6/24/2008
My 5 year old basic refrigerator has just recently started to lose it's seal on the top corner freezer gasket. I am puzzled as to why - there is no dirt or grease, and nothing is stored above the unit that fell onto the gasket. Condensation and ice is forming on the ceiling of the freezer constantly. Short of replacing the gasket, what can be done to get the seal back, and do you have any guesses as how this can be prevented since I already keep it clean and do not instill damage? Thank you.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 6/25/2008
Dear Cheryl:
Since your refrigerator/freezer is only 5 years old, and it sounds like you have been taking very good care of the gasket, I would suspect that the problem may not be with the gasket of your freezer, but rather that the door of your freezer may be out of alignment. If the door of your freezer is not aligned properly, this could explain why the top corner is not sealing properly. If you are handy, you can adjust the screws that hold the door, so that the door is in better alignment with the face of your freezer. When it is in proper alignment, you should be able to close the door on a dollar bill, and when you tug on the dollar bill, you should feel some tight resistance. And the door should pass this "dollar bill" test all the way around.
You probably want to solve this problem soon, not only to reduce the ice formation inside your freezer, but also, the poor seal of the corner of your door is causing your unit's compressor to work harder, and as such, could lead to the unit wearing out sooner.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Garry on 6/29/2008
I recently purchased a heat pump. I am considering building my own cover for my new heat pump. I was thinking of using 4 -4x4 PT posts and installing to the posts a plywood PT for a top cover, in the winter when it gets too cold for operation , snow, temp below 30 degrees, etc., I would close in the 4 open sides w/PT plywood for the winter. But when in operation would a permanent cover placed approx. 2 feet above the unit hinder its operation. Please advise me. I live upstate/central New York State.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 6/29/2008
Dear Garry:
Regarding building a permanent cover for your new heat pump, here’s a couple of thoughts that you should consider.
First, since you live in a relatively cold climate (upstate/central New York), you are correct that there will be periods during the winter when the outside temperature will be below freezing, and as such, it will not be efficient to operate your heat pump. And yes, its wise to want to protect your heat pump from falling branches, ice, snow, leaves, etc. The other advantage to having a cover around your heat pump is that if your unit is in direct sunlight, then having a cover above it will provide shade which will help keep it cooler in the summer, and this will help it’s operation.
However, the problem with installing a permanent cover around your heat pump is that it could impede the flow of air around the unit, and therefore reduce the efficiency of your unit. Having adequate air flow around your unit is critical to it operating properly. It is this air flow that enables the unit to exchange the heat from inside your house and bring it outside during the summer months, and to extract the heat from the air outside your house and bring it inside when you need it during the winter months (that is, the winter months before the weather drops below freezing). So if your permanent cover reduces this air flow, then your heat pump can’t do its job properly.
So if you do install a permanent cover, then you will want to leave plenty of room around your heat pump to let it “breathe”. I suspect that just allowing 2 feet above the unit is probably not going to be enough space, depending on the size of your unit and how much natural air flow there is around where the unit is located.
Secondly, you mentioned that you were planning on using what sounded like a sheet of pressure-treated plywood as the top cover. If this is the case, then you should consider pitching this cover like a tent or roof. Because if it is left flat, then the weight of the snow and ice could become heavy enough to cause it all to come crashing down on your new heat pump.
Lastly, rather than installing a permanent structure around your heat pump, you might want to consider covering it with a tarp in the coldest months of the winter, and removing the tarp when the weather warms up. This is described in the Home-Wizard Maintenance Library for air conditioners (see Task #4): http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/airconditioning.asp You can even add a piece of plywood to go underneath the tarp, for extra protection.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from david blair on 6/30/2008
Can I get a thermostat for model # FRA-1221A-26;
serial # 278H212D-EA
?8182
Wizard Freezer Freon 12 charge 17 oz??
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 6/30/2008
Dear David:
Is your unit a "Wizard" brand freezer that was built back in the 1950's? If not, what is the brand or manufacturer of your freezer?
Just let me know, and I'll see if we can help track down a thermostat for you.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Lima Chan on 7/3/2008
Some of my house's foundation beams were twisted and it pushed up the underlayment board. So I have some body put side board between the beam and post all over my house but I was told that it cannot correct the problem I have. It has to be two sister board bolted against the post. Is it right? Also, I also have him put extra posts, looks like it was not the right post. Is it right that the foundation post has to be the one with a twisted screw not cemented to the ground(I was told this kind is to be used to build the deck but not foundation) Any information will appreciated. Just to think what have done has to be redone makes me frustrated. Thank you. lima
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/4/2008
Dear Lima:
Without seeing your specific situation, it difficult to say what should have been done to properly level your floor.
I would have thought that to provide adequate support that the new posts would need to be installed on top of concrete footers that would have needed to be cut, dug and poured into the ground below them. But again, it is hard to say without actually seeing your exact situation. Similarly with the sistering of the beams.
However, here is a link to a webpage about floor leveling that you might find useful: http://www.houserepairtalk.com/showthread.php?t=3099
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Bill on 7/6/2008
I am building new walls in my basement and the pipes from my hot water baseboard pipes are coming straight down and i need to put an elbow on the pipe how do i drain and refill and purge the hotwater system thank you
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/6/2008
Dear Bill:
Regarding your question of how to drain and refill and purge the hotwater system for your baseboard heating system, first, to drain your system, shut off your boiler and make a note of the water pressure. Next locate the self-feeding (auto-makeup) water valve and ensure that your make-up water supply is shutoff. Next, attach a garden hose to one of the spigots coming off of the return line that goes back to your boiler, and run the other end of the hose to either a drain or to outside. Then open up all of you valves that go to your various heating zones. Then open up the spigot and let the water drain out through the garden hose. If your boiler has been running, then BE CAREFUL that the water can be scalding hot.
To refill and purge the air from your system, ensure that the make-up water supply is connected and water supply valve is open. Close them all, and then one at a time, open the valve to each heating zone of your house. Then while manually opening the auto-makeup valve, keep the spigot open and let the water run out the garden hose to your drain our outside. Let it run until you no longer see any air bubbles. While you are doing this, keep an eye on the water pressure and don't let it get above 25 PSI. If needed to control the pressure, release the auto-makeup valve momentarily. After you have stopped seeing air bubbles, release the auto makeup valve and close spigot. Allow the water pressure to return to normal. You then repeat these steps until all of your zones have been bled. When done, put your zone valve to their operating positions. Then check the water pressure, which should be the same as what you noted at the beginning. And then finally, turn your boiler back on.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Hoping to Save Money in PA on 7/9/2008
I have hot water baseboards that run off of an oil furnace (which also supplies the hot water to the rest of the house). I am thinking about replacing the oil furnace with an electric heater, but I want to make sure I get a big enough unit. How much water (GPM) is typically circulated through the baseboards?
____________________ QUESTION from jmob9077 on 7/10/2008
how do i dismantle cast iron radiators?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/10/2008
Dear "Hoping to Save Money in PA":
The short answer to your question of how much water is circulated (GPM) through your baseboard heating system, is that it depends on the size of your circulation pump and the size (diameter) and length of the piping in your system.
Here is a link to a great guide by Bell & Gossett on how to size a baseboard heating system. Hopefully it will have what you need. If not, just let us know, and we'll try to find something else for you.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/10/2008
Hi jmob9077:
Here is a webpage that describes how to remove / dismantle a cast iron radiator:
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/15023.shtml
Is this what you needed? If not, let us know, and we'll try to find something else for you.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Sandy on 7/10/2008
Our water pressure is extremely low throughout the whole house and outside. It takes around 2 hours to wash a load of clothes in the washer. Where should we start to find the cause?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/10/2008
Dear Sandy:
Regarding of low water pressure throughout your home, first, I assume that you are on public water supply, and not well water?
With that said, here are some things you can check to determine and remedy the cause of your home’s low water pressure:
1) Have you checked with your neighbors to see if they also have low water pressure? Most likely if you are all on the same street, then you are likely to be tied into the same water supply main. So a first thing to check is whether the problem is with the public water supply for your neighborhood.
2) Next, check the shutoff valves from the street into your home. You want to check to make sure these valves are in the full open position. The two important valves to look at are the ones on immediately upstream and downstream of your water meter. If you have an outdoor meter that is in an underground pit, you may have to purchase a special socket wrench to open the meter box cover. Water supply valves typically have a long handle on them, and the valve is in its fully “open” position when the handle is lined up directly with the pipe that they are located in. So check to be sure that these valves are fully open.
3) Then check downstream of your water meter to see if there are any other shutoff valves in this main line bringing water supply into your house. And if there are, then be sure that these valves are in their completely open position.
4) If you have a pressure regulator valve that lowers the pressure of the public water supply down, then you can check to see if this valve is set too low, or is malfunctioning.
5) If all of the valves are fully open and the water pressure is still low at all locations within the house, this indicates that there could be a restriction in the supply line to your home. For example, the buried portion of the water line leading to your home from the street could be crushed or crimped. And there is also the possibility that some debris may have gotten in the supply line and lodged in the valve. Unfortunately, checking to see if the line is crimped means having to trench the line. And checking for a blockage in one of the valves means having to cut that valve out of the line.
6) The problem could also be with the water meter. To check this, you would have to have to have your water company do this work.
7) The other possibility is that there is a water leak somewhere in your water system. You can check the system in your house by watching your water meter when you are not using any water for a given period of time (for example, overnight).
8) If you have a water softener system for your house, then you should check that its valves are fully open, and the canister was installed properly.
9) If you are in a region of the country that has hard water, then there is the possibility that all of the filters in your home (washing machine, faucets, shower heads, etc.) have all gotten clogged with mineral deposits over time. To eliminate these deposits you can soak /scrub these filters with vinegar from time to time.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from mcox on 7/11/2008
after completing it's cycle, my westinghouse washing machine has about an inch of water in the bottom and the clothes are still too wet to go into the dryer. I have tried respinning them, but the little bit of water is still there.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/11/2008
Dear mcox:
If your washing machine is not draining completely, then here are a couple of things you might check:
1) check to see that your drain hose is not obstructed, clogged, kinked, or blocked in any way.
2) if your drain hose is completely clear, then the next thing to check is the pump in washing machine to make sure that something is not stuck inside of it and that the impellers are turning at the same speed as the motor shaft.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from paul on 7/12/2008
i have to turn my humidifier down to like 50 in order to kick on the air, even if air is set at 65. we live in fl in a highrise with central air. if i have thermostat on say 75 and it gets warmer than that in the condo i have to turn humidifier to like 55 or 60 before the air kicks on. is this normal? i have not had to move humidfier setting in the past.
____________________ QUESTION from mcox@mtco.com on 7/12/2008
washer not spinning clothes dry
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/12/2008
Dear mcox:
I saw your posting this morning. Did you not get our reply from last nite?
I'm re-sending again to your email address.
If you still need more help, please let us know.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from mcox on 7/12/2008
I checked the pump and hoses as suggested.. it all seemed clear. Could the tub not be spinning fast enough?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/13/2008
Dear Paul:
Is it a "humidifier" that you are have this problem with? Or is it actually a "dehumidifier"?
I would assume that this time of year in Florida, that you would be trying to reduce the humidity in your condo with a dehumidifier, rather than trying to increase the humidity with a humidifier.
If it is indeed a dehumidifier, then the reason that it might not be turning on is that central air conditioning acts as a dehumidifier itself (when an air conditioner operates to reduce the air temperature, it also reduces the dew point of the air causing water to condense out . . . this is why air conditioners have water dripping from them). So if the air conditioning in your condo has already dropped the humidity down for the temperature of the room, then this humidity level may be already below what it takes for your dehumidifier unit to kick on.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/13/2008
Dear mcox:
The reason that I had assumed that it was a drainage problem is that in your earlier posting, I had gotten the impression that you had water still in the tub after the spin cycle had ended.
If you've checked the drain hoses and pump, then yes, it might be possible that your tub is not spinning fast enough.
Here's a link to a webpage on how to diagnose transmission problems with a Whirlpool washer:
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/03/16/diagnosing-transmission-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-top-loading-direct-drive-washer/
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Cheryl on 7/13/2008
I have a Kenmore washer, about 3 yrs. old. It is leaving small circle bleach spots on my clothes. Any information would be appreciated.
____________________ QUESTION from Cheryl on 7/13/2008
I have a Kenmore washer model 110.15942401. It is leaving small circle bleach spots on my dark clothes. I would appreciate any information available. Thank you.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/13/2008
Dear Cheryl:
Here are some ideas that you might consider regarding washing machine leaving bleach spots on your dark clothes:
1) Do you use the bleach dispenser in your washer? If so, there could be some bleach that remains in the dispenser and is deposited on the next load. You might want to add the bleach as the water is filling instead.
2) The source of the bleach spots may not be liquid bleach, but rather could be coming from other bleaching sources in your home that are getting onto your clothes. Other bleaching sources can include:
o whitening toothpastes
o acne medicines
o some mouthwashes
o high chlorine levels in your water supply
3) Could you be using a detergent that might contain bleach? There are reports that some detergents that claim not to have bleach actually do have bleach in them, and this can cause spotting on dark clothes. Have you tried switching detergents?
4) In some rare cases, a person's body chemistry has been known to contribute to bleach spots in clothing when the clothes are washed.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from CHERYL MCKENTY on 7/15/2008
My 5 year old front loading washer smells sour even though I routinely leave the door open and finally ran an empty load with 1 cup bleach followed by an empty load with 2 cups vinegar. Fortunately, the smell does not transfer to our clothes, but it quite unpleasant in the room if the washer door gets even only half open. Can you recommend another method of cleaning? Thanks. Cheryl McKenty
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/15/2008
Cheryl:
The "sour" odor from your front load washer could be due to a mold or mildew, as this is a very common problem that occurs with front load washers. It is caused by water sitting on the gasket that goes around the door.
There are a couple of things that you can do to eliminate this odor problem with your front load washer. First, after each washer load you can try leaving the door open, so that the water around the door gasket can thoroughly dry out. Second, to get rid of the mold and mildew that has built up in your washer, you can try using products such as "Purewasher" (which you can find at www.smellywasher.com) or "Whirlout" (which you can find at http://www.summitbrands.com/brands/WhirlOut.aspx).
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Kimberly on 7/16/2008
I recently moved into a home built in the 70's. Has a gas fireplace insert. We have been in for a week now. The room where the fireplace is has no furniture it it so there really has been no traffic except my husband and I opening and closing the blinds in that room. The other day, we went for a walk and came back 20 minutes later to find the fireplace fan on. We hadn't touched the fireplace since we moved in. I emailed the previous owner and he said that has never come on by itself in the 20 yrs they lived there. Now, I did have the blinds open and it was about 7:30 ish when the sun is streaming in the front windows. It is possible, even though I am not aware of a thermostat on it that the fan came on automatically ? Otherwise my husband thinks someone came in the house while we were on our short walk. The fire wasn't on, just the fan. I hope there is an explanation for this. The previous owner said someone would had to have activated it but I was in that room before the walk and would have heard the fan noise.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/16/2008
Dear Kimberly:
Yes, this sounds very odd indeed.
First, I would doubt that just sunlight coming in through the windows would be enough to raise the temperature of your fireplace sufficiently high enough for the fan thermostat to turn on.
A couple of thoughts on things that you might check:
1) Since this is a new house to you, is it possible that there is an external control switch for the fan that you might have turned on/off as you left the house thinking that it was a switch for something else?
2) Is there a thermostat that controls the fan? Could this thermostat have been set too low, or be faulty, and this be what caused the fan to come on?
3) When you can back and the fan was running, how did it turn off? Did it go off on its own, or was there a switch that you used? Could this switch be faulty?
4) The last thought is the possibility that the fan itself is faulty, and that it may have been in the "on" position, but stuck from turning on. And then when you, for example, shut the door on your way out, it may have been enough to jar the fan and get it to turn on.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from LakesideWeasel on 7/19/2008
My washing machine leaks into the basin where the clothing goes. It is a drip about once per second all the time whether the washer is being run or not. What are the possible causes?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/20/2008
Dear LakesideWeasel:
If your washing machine is leaking into the basin even when it is turned off, then it sounds like you have a faulty water inlet valve which needs to be replaced.
The water inlet valves are located at the back of your washing machine where the two water hoses from the wall connect (one hot and one cold). When one of these valves fail, it allows water to leak past it. If your drip is hot water, then it is the hot water inlet valve that has likely failed. Likewise, if your drip is cold water, then it is likely the cold water inlet valve that has failed.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from annoegage@gmail.com on 7/21/2008
Everyone keeps telling me that plugging in and unplugging a freezer is VERY bad for it. We are talking about plugging one in for a 48 hr. period, once a month.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/21/2008
Dear annoegage:
The answer is, "it depends". If your freezer is a fairly new Energy Star rated freezer, then I would suggest letting it run all of the time. And then to minimize energy consumption, ensure that the door seals are all clean and close tightly all the way around. Also, keep the coils clean, and allow adequate air circulation around the unit. And try to locate your freezer in a cool location, for example, down in a basement. And of course, don't open the door to the freezer until you are ready to use it.
However, if your freezer is an older, less energy-efficient model, or the unit has to be located someplace warm (like a garage), and if you really just need the freezer for only two days per month (that is, it would be running less than 7% of the time), then yes, I would suggest that you turn off the freezer when it is not in use, to conserve energy. However, as I imagine you have already considered, you will need to keep the freezer very clean when it is not in use, so that it does not begin to smell.
And as always with a freezer, from a safety standpoint in either case, you will want to be sure that there is no possibility that kids could ever climb inside, lock themselves in and suffocate.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from wnvsanborn@hotmail.com on 7/21/2008
pump switchs to low speed after 30 minutes, what is the problem.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/21/2008
Dear wnvsanborn:
Which pump in your house are you referring to?
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from judy smith on 7/27/2008
what could be the problem with my clothes washer when the clothes do not spin dry?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 7/27/2008
Dear Judy:
If your clothes are still very wet after the spin cycle but there is little or no visible water, then the washer is not spin drying the clothes. Here are a couple of potential causes for this:
1) If the timer is defective timer, then it would not be allowing the spin cycle to go long enough.
2) There could be a problem with the lid switch. If the lid switch does not engage properly, then the washer will not enter its spin cycle. Try manually depressing the lid plunger or use a magnet (for magnetic plungers) and see if it spins.
3) Too much detergent can cause the machine to have difficulty spinning. Check for build-up of detergent in the bottom, near the agitator.
4) It could be a washer drive belt problem. This is a bit complicated to check. To check your drive belt, first UNPLUG THE ELECTRICAL PLUG OF YOUR WASHER. Then removed the main access pan and check to see if the belt has a lot of play and needs to be tightened. Also check that the pulley is tightly attached to the motor, or if it needs to be tightened. If the belt is worn and frayed looking, then replace it. If the belt still won't turn, then there is a problem in the washer transmission, and you will need to bring in a professional to repair or replace the transmission.
5) Try pushing the agitator down. If it has either gotten loose or worn out, then you will need a new agitator.
6) The washer may have a worn clutch. If this is the case, then you will need to bring in a professional repairman to repair or replace the clutch.
7) Lastly, the spin solenoid could be defective. If this is the case, then you will need to call in a professional repairman.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from mzhignz on 8/2/2008
My central air unit is running but no air is blowing from the registers...What should I check?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/2/2008
Dear mzhignz:
If your outside air conditioning unit is running, but you are not getting any air flow coming out of your registers, then I would suggest checking to see if you have blown a fuse (or tripped an electrical breaker) on your inside air handler unit.
Most central air conditioning units have two circuit breakers, one for the inside unit and one for the outside unit, and they will be located in the main electrical panel for your house. If you need to replace the fuse for the inside unit BE VERY CAREFUL as your air conditioning system is wired for high voltage. If you are unsure of yourself, then this may be something that you will want to have a trained professional do for you. If you have switch-style electrical breakers, check to see if the breaker in your electrical panel for your house has clicked into the "off" position. If it has, then move it over to the "on" position. If it clicks back to the "off" position, then you likely have a short-circuit in your air conditioning unit, and you will need to call a professional to inspect it.
If your problem is not due to a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker, then other possible causes include:
o fan belt is broken in your inside air handler unit.
o someone accidentally turned off the switch located on the side of your inside air handler unit.
o very clogged air filters.
o or if your system is electrically zoned, then the zone dampers may be stuck in the closed position.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from James on 8/5/2008
Window airconditoning units: Do they need maintaining?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/5/2008
Dear James:
Yes, window air conditioning units do require regular routine maintenance to help ensure that they operate properly and energy efficiently, and it will help them to extend their useful lives.
There are three key maintenance tasks that you should do for your window air conditioning unit:
1) Replace or wash the air filter (once a month during the cooling season).
2) Clean the outside section of the condenser unit (once a year in April, prior to the cooling season).
3) Covering (and uncovering) the outside condenser unit (before and after the off-season).
You can find more information on the Air Conditioning (Room) webpage of the Home-Wizard.com Maintenance Library at:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/roomairconditioner.asp
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Jason on 8/7/2008
If I do not use my front load washer for a few days, a few cups of water will accumulate in the basin. How can I fix this problem? Thank you.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/7/2008
Dear Jason:
If I understand your problem correctly, you are finding water accumulating in the basin of your washing machine after you have not been using it for a while. In other words, the problem is not that water does not drain properly after you have been running your washer, but rather the water is showing up when the washer has NOT been running, correct?
If this is the case, then it sounds like one or both of the solenoid valves that control water flow to your washer may be leaking a little bit (there is one solenoid valve for cold water, and one for the hot water supply).
Here is a webpage that describes how to test to see if your solenoid valves are operating properly:
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/washer/check/inletvalve.php
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Suzette on 8/11/2008
It's summertime and hot and we just moved into a new place with a gas fireplace; the pilot light is on and I'd like to turn it off completely until November. How do I do this?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/12/2008
Dear Suzette:
A couple of things regarding the proper way to turn off the pilot light for your gas fireplace.
First, the exact procedure will depend on the specific make and model of gas fireplace that you have. Each one can be a bit different. What you might try to is going online to the manufacture of your particular unit, and see if you can download a manual for your fireplace.
Second, many fireplace distributers recommend that you leave the pilot light ON, even during the summer. There are two key reasons for this: 1) it helps keep the unit and flue dry, which reduces the chances of problems from condensation; and 2) it helps prevent insects and animals from setting themselves up inside your flue and unit.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Robin on 8/14/2008
I have a kenmore top freezer refridgator. We just replace the door gasket on the fridge because it was tore. Now there is a gap on top of the door. How can we fix this? We never remove the door to do the repair. My model number is 106.9751711
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/15/2008
Dear Robin:
If I understand your question correctly, after you replaced the door gasket on your refrigerator, you are now finding that there is a place at the top of the door where the gasket is not sealing tightly, and this is the "gap" that you are referring to, right?
If this is the case, then there are a couple possible causes for this problem:
1) The new gasket that you purchased came twisted up (as they typically do), and one of the "twists" in the gasket is what is causing the irregular sealing.
2) When the new gasket was installed, it was not fastened down properly, and the resulting misalignment is what is causing the gap.
3) The gasket that was installed is not the proper gasket for your particular refrigerator.
Regarding the first two items above, you might want to look at this webpage which describes how to install a refrigerator door gasket (and hopefully you will not be bothered by some of the author's "non-technical" references):
http://fixitnow.com/2004/09/appliance-repair-revelation-zen-and.htm
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from peter on 8/15/2008
The neighbor in the video mentions planting shrubs around the A/C unit to make it more energy efficient. Please explain.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/15/2008
Dear Peter:
. . . sure, glad to explain.
The short answer is that placing shrubs around it, the shrubs help to keep your outside air handling unit at a lower temperature (by blocking the sun and providing shade), so that it makes this air handler's job easier. Since your outside air handler's job is to draw the heat away from the inside of your house, if this air handler is baking in the sun, it gets hot and makes it harder for the unit to get the heat away.
For a longer answer on how a home air conditioning system works, this webpage provides a fairly good explanation:
http://www.hometips.com/cs-protected/guides/airconditioners/aircond_works.html
One thing to consider when planting shrubs around an outside air conditioner unit, is that you do not want to place the shrubs so tightly around the unit that it doesn't leave room for the unit to "breathe". Air needs to circulate freely around the unit, so that it can easily dissipate the heat that it has brought from inside your house.
One last thing to consider is whether your AC unit is already in the shade. If your house, trees, etc. are already shading the unit, then you don't need to add the shrubs.
Hope this is helpful.
If you have additional questions, just let us know.
Also, we hope that you are finding our monthly videos to be both informative and entertaining.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Vicki on 8/21/2008
This may come through twice. Sorry if it does. I am currently remodling my kitche, we have baseboard heat...I want to put a pantry (broom holder) and a desk area... Any way to work around those baseboards??
Thanks
____________________ QUESTION from Roger on 8/21/2008
I replaced my garbage disposal an now my dishwasher will not drain...
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/21/2008
Dear Vicki:
It sounds like your problem is that you want to place a broom holder pantry and a desk area where you currently have baseboard heating, correct?
If this is the case, then you have several options:
1) You can remove that section of your baseboard heating piping completely and reconnect with pipe through the wall behind this area, or in the floor below it. This will likely be your most effective solution, but unfortunately, it will likely be the most expensive as well.
2) Or you can remove the front cover and adjustable vent (carefully because you will need to put them back), then remove the aluminum fins from the copper pipe (pliers should do it) on the sections where you want to put the broom pantry and desk. Then you'll need to put foam pipe insulation over the pipe in these sections. After this, put the vent and front cover back on the baseboard.
3) Or you can bend a heat shield from rolled aluminum (used for roof flashing) from the wall above the baseboard to the floor in front of it, and do this for the entire area around your broom pantry and desk.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/21/2008
Dear Roger:
When you replaced your garbage disposal, did you knock-out the drain hole in it? When new disposals are installed, and the dishwasher suddenly stops draining, then this is usually the culprit.
If the drain hole in your garbage disposal was knocked out, then let us know and we will offer some other things to check. But again, it sounds like this is likely your problem.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Mark on 8/24/2008
Hey Wizard,
We purchased a new manual defrost freezer at Sears last night to replace our dinosaur freezer. The sales guy pitched the extended warranty really hard - told me specifically that newer freezers have to be serviced every two years. His reasons were something to do with the oil/freon mix that is in the system. What's the straight talk on this?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/24/2008
Dear Mark:
Here's a good article that appeared in the Washington Post, that talks about the pro's and con's of purchasing extended warranties:
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/09/30/AR2006093000148.html
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Kay Chertkov on 8/30/2008
I have a Kenmore 90 automaticv series washer. The fabric/bleach disenser on the left side is clogged. I have tried to find a hole where it might be clogged, but to no avail. Can you help me?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/30/2008
Dear Kay:
The part that holds your fabric/bleach dispenser should allow it to be removed. You can then soak the dispenser in very hot water for 10-15 minutes, then use either Dawn liquid soap or white vinegar and an old toothbrush to scrub the residue off of the dispenser.
Hopefully this will fix the problem for you.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Manny from CT on 8/31/2008
Dear home wizard;
I have a conventional hot water baseboard,three zone heating system. Unlike the old cast iron radiators, there is no valve to shut off or reduce the temperature in any particular room/'s which are not being used. All the radiators have a louver which I can close, however since they are bedrooms (2 unoccupied) with no furniture or other plumbing, I would like to supply as close to no heat as possible to save on the sky rocketing fuel costs (oil). I understand that these bedroom doors must be kept shut so as not to absorb heat from the other heated areas.
Is there something I can do like removing the covers and wrapping the delicate blades with strips of aluminum foil to restrict heat in these rooms while assuring hot water flow to the other occupied rooms and bathrooms within this zone?
Thanks,
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/31/2008
Dear Manny from CT:
Here are a couple of options for reducing the heat from your baseboard heating pipes in the unoccupied rooms. The option you select will depend on how "permanent" you want your fix to be:
1) You can bend a heat shield from rolled aluminum (used for roof flashing) from the wall above the baseboard to the floor in front of it, and do this for the entire length of exposed baseboard in the room.
2) Or you can remove the front cover and adjustable vent (carefully because you will need to put them back), then remove the aluminum fins from the copper pipe (pliers should do it) on the sections where you want to put the broom pantry and desk. Then you'll need to put foam pipe insulation over the pipe in these sections. After this, put the vent and front cover back on the baseboard.
3) Or you can remove that section of your baseboard heating piping completely and reconnect with pipe through the wall behind this area, or in the floor below it. This will likely be your most effective solution, but unfortunately, it will likely be the most expensive and the most permanent as well.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Hayes Wellington on 8/31/2008
My dryer turns on and works, but wont heat up and move through the cycle. We check the lint trap frequently, how do I fix this problem? What is it? Thanks!!!
____________________ QUESTION from Hayes on 8/31/2008
My dryer wont heat up. Its not the lint trap. It wont heat and go through the cycle. What could it be? How do I fix......Help before my wife hurts me!!!
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 8/31/2008
Dear Hayes:
Here is a webpage that describes how to troubleshoot a dryer that will not heat up (note that there is a section for gas dryers, and one for electric dryers):
http://hubpages.com/hub/Why-Wont-My-Dryer-Make-Heat
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Kay Chertkov on 9/1/2008
Thank you for the advise on the washer dispenser. Now I have another problem. when I decided to paint an interior door, I used blue tape around the door handle so not to get paint on the rim. The paint leaked thru and now I can't remove it without taking the handle off. There are no screws anywhere on the handle. There are 2 small slots on the side rim where the push lock is. (This handle is the cheap kind used by builders). Can you help me?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/1/2008
Dear Kay:
Glad to help.
I suspect that if you had a very small flat-head screwdriver, or a stiff paperclip, that you could push them into the slots and get the rim to pop off. Then underneath the rim, you should be able to find the screws to take the handle off.
If this doesn't work for you, if you could let us know what is the specific brand of door handles that you have, we can try to help you further.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Shawn on 9/2/2008
How do I replace the blower wheel in my dryer?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/2/2008
Dear Shawn:
Here's a webpage that describes how to replace a blower wheel on a Maytag brand dryer. The procedure for yours may be similar, but will depend on the particular brand of dryer that you have.
http://fixitnow.com/2004/05/mailbag-maytag-or-magic-chef-dryer.htm
Remember, be sure to UNPLUG your dryer before attempting any work on it.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from jesse on 9/2/2008
I want to disconnect my existing cast iron boiler in order to move it 12 inches or so and then reconnect. I have baseboard style heaters but they appear not to have bleeder valves on them in order to drain the system down. What would be the best way to ensure the entire system is drained down. I also have a system when installed that has no shut-off or service valves to isolate the piping to the baseboar heaters , only the boiler drain at the floor level and a boiler drain right where the piping attaches to the supply side. Any ideas would be apprecited
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/3/2008
Dear Jesse:
Actually, baseboard heating systems do not usually have bleeders on the baseboard heating pipes. But at your boiler, there should be purge valves. So after you shut off your boiler and you close your water supply valve, you should be able to drain your system by opening up the other valves around your boiler.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from dan on 9/3/2008
My hot water heater is 12 yrs old. If the temp. setting is too low will there be days when the water is hotter than others. Also should the heating element(s) be removed and cleaned peiodically
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/3/2008
Dear Dan:
If the temperature setting on the thermostat on your hot water heater is too low, then you might find your home running out of hot water from time to time. Also, you may find that it takes longer for your hot water to recover after large hot water uses (baths, showers, dishwasher, etc.). But on the other hand, lowering your temperature setting on your hot water heater can help you save energy.
However, if your thermostat is operating properly, then I can't see a reason why some days would have water hotter than others, just because you set the temperature lower.
Regarding your second question about whether the heating element (or elements, if your unit has both higher and lower heating elements) of your water heater should be removed and cleaned routinely, the answer is that the heating element(s) is usually just removed and cleaned when it shows evidence of failure. You should routinely backflush your water heater (see our Maintenance Library) to remove sediment and scale, and the frequency will depend on factors such as the hardness of your water and how you use hot water in your home. But removing a heating element is a fairly involved job, and if your water heater is operating properly, it's not something that one would do without cause, that is, if your delivery and recovery of hot water has not declined significantly.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Kat Bannister on 9/7/2008
I need to purchase an expansion valve for my hot water heater. it is old style and i cannot afford to replace it with one of those new expansion tanks. Can you help me find and expansion valve to replace this with or let me know any way to stop the leak until I can afford a plumber?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/7/2008
Dear Kat:
If I understand your situation correctly, it sounds like your pressure relief valve on our hot water heater is leaking water out through the discharge tube, right? And if I had to assume, your home has a back flow prevention valve on the water supply to your house, and you do not have an expansion tank on your hot water system, correct?
First to answer your first question, you can purchase a pressure relief valve at most plumbing supply businesses. Here's an example of an online distributor, although we do not have any experience with them: http://www.plumbingworld.com/heatingrelatedproducts.html
But regarding your question of stopping the leak, it is VERY IMPORTANT to note that your water heater's pressure relief valve may be leaking because it is doing its job. That is, that the water pressure in your hot water heater may be too high, and it is venting water to help get the pressure down. An over-pressured water heater can be VERY DANGEROUS, as they have been known to explode.
One question is whether this leaking from your pressure relief valve is because this valve is failing? Or is it because you have a back flow prevention valve on your system, but you do not have an expansion tank . . . and as the water heats and expands, it has no place to go, so it causes your pressure relief valve to open? Or is it because your tank is operating at too high of a pressure?
Here is an online article that describes the operation of water heater pressure relief valves, that you might find helpful:
http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/PressureRelief.htm
Since your pressure relief valve is an important safety feature of your water heater, we have to advise that you should have a trained professional evaluate it as soon as possible.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but we hope this is helpful for you.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Janet on 9/7/2008
What would cause a heating element of an oven to catch on fire? We had just baked a pie at 350 degrees, took it out of the oven and turned the temperature up to 425. We waited about 10 minutes. I was in the other room and heard some pounding and thought someone was banging on something in the kitchen. When I came back in the kitchen and opened the oven there was a small flame in the back of the oven so I turned the oven off. The flame went out and I saw the heating element had burned in two.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/7/2008
Dear Janet:
It sounds like the heating element in your oven developed a short circuit, which could cause it to over-heat and catch fire. Unfortunately, this is something that can happen sometime with ovens, and another reason why everyone should keep a fire extinguisher in their kitchen.
At this point you will need to replace your heating element, of course, and you will want to inspect the terminals where the new element will plug into, to be sure there is no damage to the connectors.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from klk2025@msn.com on 9/7/2008
When winterizing your hot tub, should you put any anti-freeze in it?
____________________ QUESTION from kristen on 9/7/2008
When winterizing your hot tub, should you put anti-freeze in it?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/7/2008
Dear Kristen:
There are two schools of thought on whether you should put anti-freeze in your hot tub plumbing when winterizing it.
In some situations, it is best to remove all of the water by blowing it out with a compressor (or depending on your model, it may require that all of the water be removed by using a canister-style "shop vacuum").
However for some models, it is recommended that you put in anti-freeze (ABSOLUTELY NOT automotive anti-freeze which is poisonous, but rather, RV anti-freeze that can be used in hot tub spas). One of the problems with putting in anti-freeze is that it has to be removed properly in the spring.
Here are a couple of links to some webpages about winterizing hot tub spas.
http://www.ezhottubs.com/news/spa_winterizing.htm
http://hottubsource.blogspot.com/2005/12/hot-tubs-and-antifreeze.html
And of course, it would also be good to check with the manufacturer of your particular spa.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Gaye Brown on 9/8/2008
I have a garbage disposal that works fine but there is a slow drip that comes right off the RESET button on the bottom of the unit. Can I fix this leak by tightening something or replacing a washer?
____________________ QUESTION from Gaye Brown on 9/8/2008
I have a garbage disposal that works fine but there is a slow drip that comes right off the RESET button on the bottom of the unit. Can I fix this leak by tightening something or replacing a washer?
____________________ QUESTION from Gaye Brown on 9/8/2008
I have a garbage disposal with a slow drip that comes off the RESET botton on the bottom of the unit. How can I stop this leak?
____________________ QUESTION from Noel on 9/10/2008
When a refrigerator is empty and not in use, is it best for frig maingtenance to unplug it and leave the doors open or keep it running with the doors closed?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/10/2008
Dear Noel:
If your refrigerator is not going to be used for an extended period (more than a month for example) then , yes, it is better that it be clean throughly, unplugged and left with the doors ajar to allow air to circulate inside it.
A couple of things to note though. First, you should unplug the refrigerator at the wall, not just turn down the controls. Many frost-free designs have heaters placed underneath the toe plate that stay on even when the control is in the “off” position. Secondly, your refrigerator should be stored in such a way that the door can be kept slightly ajar, but will not allow children to climb in and become trapped inside. One way to do this is to turn the refrigerator so that it faces a wall, close enough that a child cannot squeeze in, but far enough to allow air to circulate.
On the other hand, a chest-type deep freezer is a different story. When a deep freezer is shut down, after a few months of operation they tend to rust out the Freon lines in-between the two walls, which is essentially impossible to repair. As such, it is better to leave a deep freezer running. To save energy, if no food is being stored in it, turn the control to its minimum setting. Also make sure there is plenty of free air space around it and nothing is touching it. And make sure that the door is tightly sealed closed.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from brenda on 9/11/2008
moisture has developed between the glass on my storm windows,how do I remove it?
____________________ QUESTION from brenda burdette on 9/11/2008
how do I remove moisture that has developed between the glass on my storm windows
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/11/2008
Dear Brenda:
Moisture appearing in between the glass panes in storm windows means that the seal on your storm windows has failed, which not only allows moisture to form, but also it means that the insulation properties of your storm windows has also been reduced.
So unfortunately, this means that the storm windows will need to be replaced.
However, there is a company we've heard about called Crystal Clear Windows, who claim to have developed a cost-effective process for repair storm windows whose seals have failed. We don't have any experience with them, so I can't tell you if their process works, and what kind of firm they are to deal with. But here is their website address: http://www.ccwwi.com/WhoWeAre.html
Also, some people claim to have had temporary success in removing moisture by using a hair dryer on their window. But most of the time the moisture just comes back when the temperature outside gets to a certain point.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from David on 9/11/2008
I have old house with hot water rads. One in our porch got hot only once last year, we did bleed and got no air only water. Someone suggested that the pipes may be hooked up backwards. Although I am sure it has been there at least 20-30 yrs. I looked at the main lines in the basement and it appears that the pipe feeding into the top of a working radiator has a branch that goes to the bottom of the rad that is not working. I wonder if the main pipe in basement that has a branch to the top of a working rad should also feed the top of the rad that is not heating up. (instead of going to the bottom of the non-working rad) Does that sound right?
____________________ QUESTION from mike on 9/19/2008
hot water tank leaking at the drain valve put a pipe wrench on it put a little pressure on it didnt move afraid of it snaping off and then have to buy a new water heater or it going to be very tight
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/20/2008
Dear Mike:
If your question is whether you should use your pipe wrench to force off a drain valve on your water heater that is frozen, yes, you need to be careful not to snap it off.
Between the heat, water, sediments, etc., this valve can get quite frozen.
Have you tried spraying penetrating oil all around the treads of the valve, and then letting it set for several hours (even overnight if you can). Also, after the penetrating oil has been allowed to work its way in, when you put your wrench on it to untighten it (and remember: "lefty loosy", "righty tighty"), do NOT just pull hard on the wrench, instead use quick jerks on the wrench, like pounding the end of the wrench with your hand. These quick jerks on the wrench can do better at breaking corroded threads that just a long sustained pull.
And remember SAFETY: I assume that you have first drained all of the hot water out of your tank before removing the drain valve.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Becca Leslie on 9/21/2008
My husband and I have sold our house and are moving to a rental while we have a new house built. Our rental is quite an old home, and has radiator heat. We have a one year old daugther. We are wondering how how the covering of the pipes or the radiator become to the touch? Also, are curtains hanging near a radiator a fire hazard? Any information you could give on this matter will be greatly appreciated!
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/21/2008
Dear Becca:
You are wise to ask about equipment that is unfamiliar in your new rental house.
Yes, some home radiators can run hot enough to severely burn small children. Here is a web link that describes some statistics on burns to children from home radiators. It also describes some steps that you can take to help protect your children from becoming burned by a radiator:
http://www.achildgrowsinbrooklyn.com/a_child_grows_in_brooklyn/2007/10/radiators-and-1.html
Regarding curtains near a radiator. Yes, it's a good idea not to let curtains hang in contact with your radiators. Also, you should try to secure your curtains so that they hang BEHIND your radiators, so that they force the heat into the room rather than out to the window.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Lisa on 9/30/2008
How can I get rust off my baseboard heaters?
The baseboard heating in my bathroom has rust spots I guess because of the extra moisture in there. Is there a product that will remove the rust without ruining the painted fnish? All the rust removing products I find say they are not for use on painted surfaces..I really want to remove the rust spots without ruining the factory finish on the baseboard. Metal paint has to be be sprayed on so the toilet would have to be taken out to paint these.
____________________ QUESTION from Lisa K on 9/30/2008
The baseboard heating running behind the toilet in my bathroom has some rust spots I guess because of the extra moisture in that area. Is there a special way to remove the rust without ruining the factory painted finish?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 9/30/2008
Dear Lisa:
Unfortunately, removing rust spots from baseboard heating covers requires a bit of work. To do the job properly, you should remove the affected section of metal covering (most baseboard covers will un-snap at the ends), and then sand the rusted area completely down to bare metal. Then apply on a spray metal primer, let that dry completely, and then apply a spray paint to match your existing color. Check with your paint store to get a primer and paint that are made for radiators (which operate at elevated temperatures).
One other thought . . . you mentioned that this section of your baseboard heater is in close proximity to your toilet. You might want to consider putting a clear plastic "splash guard" in this area, if you are finding this to be part of the root cause of your problem in this area.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from iggy on 10/1/2008
Hi,
We have a GE quiet power plus dishwasher. Latley we have noticed pieces of black rubber varying in size at the bottom of the dishwasher, both inside and as well on the outside at the bottom of the door. We notice them after a cycle. Is this the end of our dishwasher or will it be worth it to call a repair guy? The warranty is no longer valid.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/1/2008
Dear Iggy:
Even though your dishwasher is no longer under warranty, I would suggest calling GE's "Answer Center" at 1-800-626-2005 (toll-free), and ask them for their recommendation. I expect that they will need to ask you some questions such as: whether you are seeing any water leaking from your dishwasher; or if something made of black rubber might have accidentally been placed in your dishwasher; or whether you notice any of your door gasket missing; etc.
If they are not able to help you, please let us know, and we can try something else to help you.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Melissa Cranstoun on 10/2/2008
What are the turn knobs on the bottom of the radiators for? I believe I have a flowing water system. Also what do I need to do to the broiler to get it ready for the winter?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/3/2008
Dear Melissa:
If you are referring to the radiator knob shown in this photo (http://farm1.static.flickr.com/41/102438933_5a498be8e0.jpg), then this is the valve that allows hot water to come into your radiator, when you want to turn it on to heat your room.
To answer your second question, you can find the recommended maintenance tasks for getting your furnace boiler ready for the winter in our Maintenance Library at: http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/furnace.asp
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Lou on 10/3/2008
Where can I purchase leather valve seats for my old hot water radiators.They're becoming hard to find.
____________________ QUESTION from lou on 10/3/2008
where can i find leather valve seats for my hot water radiators.they're getting hard to find.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/3/2008
Dear Lou:
Regarding looking for leather valve seats for your hot water radiators, here is a webpage that lists the names and phone numbers for product suppliers for radiant heating:
http://www.traditional-building.com/article/radside.htm
One of them will hopefully have the leather valve seats that you are looking for.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Linda on 10/4/2008
my wood kitchen table has developed white cloudy spots and I am not sure why. However, somewhere I remember hearing of a home solution to these. I think it involved making a paste to rub on it but I can't find anything about it. Can you help?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/4/2008
Dear Linda:
If the white cloudy spots that you are seeing on your wooden kitchen table has been caused by hot items being placed on it, then here is a webpage that describes how to use a steam iron to removed these white spots:
http://tipnut.com/diy-how-to-remove-white-heat-stains-on-wood-table/
Please note, we have not actually tried this technique ourselves, so we can't verify that it truly works. My advice is to be very careful, and if possible, to test it on an area that you could potentially cover with a centerpiece, for example.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Dave on 10/6/2008
I have a Bryant, three zone, Gas Boiler Furnace.
It turned on when the weather was warm and the thermastats where turned off. The only why I can stop it is to turn off the electrical beaker switch. What is causing the furnace to not read the thermastat? Is this something that I can troubleshoot and replace myself?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/6/2008
Dave:
If your thermostat for your furnace is not working properly, yes, there are a number of things that you can check to diagnose the cause. Here is a webpage that describes some general troubleshooting techniques for a problem thermostat:
http://www.happynews.com/living/homerepair/troubleshooting-common-thermostat.htm
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Joel in NY on 10/7/2008
Just in the last year, my gas-fired hot water baseboard system (2-zone) has had a problem. Whenever the heat goes on in the morning, the pressure builds slowly over norm until the relief valve starts dripping. I can open the drain valve on the expansion tank to let out some water (it runs clear). This helps in the short run, but I have to do this every day. Once I tried draining the expansion tank completely, but the refill valve just kept filling up the system. Can you suggest what the problem might be and how to resolve it? Water temp is set to 140-160 F. Many thanks!
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/7/2008
Dear Joel:
A leaking pressure relief valve for your hot water baseboard heating system is unsafe. It either means that your pressure relief valve has failed, or there is an over-pressure situation in your system.
If it is because your pressure relief valve is failing, then the valve absolutely should be replaced. This is a very, very important safety feature for your system. And if it is leaking because of an over-pressure situation in your system, then this needs to be address as soon as possible.
Here is a webpage that describes more about dripping pressure relief valves: http://www.inspect-ny.com/heat/ReliefValves.htm
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from B. Abe on 10/8/2008
Our garbage disposal sounds like there is a piece of glass being cut up when we turn it on... we can't see anything in there at all. Could the spinners or blades be loose? If so, how do we tighten them? Either way it sounds awful when we turn on the disposal and want to fix it. (this has been going on for a month, if not two months).
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/8/2008
Dear B. Abe:
First and foremost, please be VERY careful working around your garbage disposal. NEVER put your hand inside it. Even turned off and un-plugged, the blades can be sharp enough to cut your fingers.
If you have inspected your disposal, and don't see anything caught inside it, then the cause of the noise you are hearing could be a broken blade, coupling, or depending on the sound, a bad motor.
Unfortunately, a garbage disposal is one of those appliances where it is likely more economical to have a service person replace the entire unit, rather than coming out and attempting to repair it. In fact, it can sometimes be hard to get spare parts for some brands, for just this reason.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Carmen on 10/8/2008
I just bought a house that has 2 baseboard heaters that are connected to one thermostat. I turned the heat up a few days ago and then turned it back to the off position later that day. However, one heater is still running, but the other is not. Additionally, the wall above the heater that's still running is darkened, as if the wall has gotten very hot before. What do I do?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/8/2008
Dear Carmen:
That is very odd that your thermostat turned on both of your baseboard heaters, but will only turn one of them back off.
For the baseboard heater to continue to run hot, the thermostat connection would need to be made, the boiler would need to be on, and the water valve to the baseboard would need to be open. Even if the valve was stuck open, the baseboard would not get hot if the boiler didn't stay on. And the boiler wouldn't stay on if the thermostat connection wasn't still being made.
As such, I would suggest checking is to see if there is either some loose wiring around your thermostat, or if the thermostat itself has gone bad.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from nann on 10/12/2008
We have a vented gas log fireplace. We had our home inspected prior to moving in this past Spring. There were no issues found at that time. I know the home was vacant for some time before we moved in and I don't believe the fireplace has been used for a couple of years. Today I turned on the gas valve and tuned on the switch for the fireplace. Within a 1/2 hour the house smelled strongly of gas. Is this normal, will it go away? Or should we have this checked again. I'm not familiar with gas fireplaces but I don't see any other controls on the fireplace so I don't know if there is anything to adjust or not.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/12/2008
Dear Nann:
If you are smelling a strong odor of gas from your gas fireplace, then IMMEDIATELY shut down your fireplace and open some windows to air your house out. And do NOT turn your gas fireplace back on until you can get it inspected by a trained professional.
When a gas fireplace has been off for a while, it is not unusual that it might have a slight smell from dust than maybe burning off of the elements. But it should NEVER smell like gas, which would indicate some sort of gas leak.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from woman on 10/14/2008
The back half of my roof is large and has a pronounced slope. Is there anything in particular I should do or know about when replacing the gutters? (Our current gutters are not able to handle the quantity of water shed, but that could be due to how old they are.)
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/14/2008
Dear "woman":
If your current gutters are not able to handle the quantity or rainwater coming off of your roof, then yes there are a number of re-design considerations that you should consider, such as location of downspouts, size of the gutters, and also, where the gutters are placed relative to the edge of your roof (which may require padding out your fascia boards).
Here is a webpage which describes these design issues, which I think you will help you:
http://www.hometips.com/buying-guides/rain-gutters.html
Hope this helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from dw on 10/15/2008
Dishwasher maintenance-- Can we use bleach, tang and vinegar all in one cycle, or must the homeowner use one at a time?
Thank you.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/15/2008
Dear dw:
Innovative question!
Although doing a "bleach / Tang / vinegar" cocktail would definitely save time and energy (and of course we are always looking for ways to help you save energy and time!), unfortunately, we would recommend that you treat the scale problems with your dishwasher one step at a time.
The reason is that each of these treatments is designed to address a particular scale problem with your dishwasher (bleach for mold; Tang for rust; and vinegar for stains). And to allow each one of these treatments to do the best job, it would be most effective to dedicate an entire cycle to just that treatment.
Now if your dishwasher is having problems with mold, rust and stains, and are then wondering what order to do your treatments, then I would recommend that you do them in the order of which of the problems is worse. So if your biggest problem, for example, is rust, then I would suggest doing the Tang treatment first. And so on.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Connie on 10/15/2008
I had a new pump put in and after about two weeks it sounds like my pipes are like a truck coming through the walls
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/15/2008
Dear Connie:
Are you referring to the hot water recirculating pump for your baseboard heating system?
And if so, could you please describe a little more about the sound you are hearing. Is it coming from the pump, or from the pipes? Does it happen the entire time that your baseboard heating zone is on? Or just when it first comes on? Is it a short "banging" sound? Or is more of a prolonged rumbling?
Just let us know, we can try to diagnose what the problem is for you.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Josh on 10/18/2008
While bleeding my hot water radiators, I lost one of the bleed valve plugs. Where can I purchase a new one? And what can I do besides shut the system off in the mean time?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/18/2008
Dear Josh:
Regarding finding a replacement for your lost bleed valve plug, here is a link to a webpage of suppliers of radiant heating systems:
http://www.traditional-building.com/article/radside.htm
In terms of what to do in the meantime, you are right, the safest thing to do is shut down your heating system until you can replace the bleeder plug. On the other hand, if you have more than one radiator, and there are valves on both sides of the radiator with the missing bleeder plug, then you might be able to shut these valves to isolate this particular radiator and still run your system for the other radiators. But again, this depends on how your system was piped.
If you are tempted to put a piece of cork into the plug, or try to force thread something else to act like a plug, you make be asking for a messy hot water leak, or stripping the threads and having to replace the entire valve.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from BK on 10/18/2008
I just moved into a house with a baseboard heating system. I had a plumber come check out the system, but the gas wasn't on. He said to have the gas company light the pilot when they turned on the gas. He said everything was good to go after that. The serviceman with the gas company lit the pilot, but said he didn't notice a pressure relief valve. It just has a cap. He said not to run it until we got a relief valve and then told me some of the things that could happen. Do I need the relief valve or is the cap good enough? I think I know the answer, I just want to be sure.
____________________ QUESTION from dean on 10/18/2008
have an apartment with water radiators. all but one is giving heat. tried the bleed it but when i turned the valve no air or water came out. what could i try to fix this
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/18/2008
Dear BK:
Yes, your intuition I suspect is correct. I would NEVER recommend operating a hot water boiler system without a pressure relief valve. And further, even if a system has a pressure relief valve, it needs to be routinely inspected and tested to ensure that it is operating properly. This is a VERY important safety feature of your home.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/18/2008
Dear Dean:
If you have a radiator that is not heating up, and nothing at all comes out when you try to bleed it, then here are a couple of things to check:
1) when you open the bleeder valve, have you tried putting something like a stiff paperclip in it, to see if the valve is clogged and trapping air in the radiator?
2) does the radiator that is not heating up have shutoff valves upstream and downstream of it that are closed?
3) another possibility is that sludge has formed in the pipes leading to the radiator and is creating a blockage that is keeping adequate water flow through this particular radiator.
Hope this helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Stephanie on 10/20/2008
Just bought a 100 year old house. My main question has to do with turning on and off the system during this cold than mild days of Oct. I grew up with electric heat and this is what we did, but I'm thinking that turning on an off this system isn't the way to go. Also, with electric heat you try and keep the house always at the same temp so you don't play with the programing much, is this true of steam heat or is it better to program variable temps throughout the day (depending when we'll be home).
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/21/2008
Dear Stephanie:
Regarding the first part of your question, if you are wondering if during what's called the "shoulder months" when your heating demand for your house is relatively low and may fluctuate significantly, whether you should be turning your heating system off and on . . . then the answer is that it depends on the kind of heating system that you have and how it is setup to operate.
It sounds like you have a hot water boiler which I assume provides hot water to either room radiators or baseboard heaters. If you system is setup to circulate water only when a wall thermostat tells the system that the temperature is too low, which both turns on your furnace boiler to heat water and a pump to circulate this water, then it is fine to turn your system on and off. However, assuming that your thermostat is operating properly, then there is no reason to have to turn your system on and off, since the wall thermostat will do it for you. On the other hand, if in your 100 year-old house you have a system which for some reason is not thermostatically controlled, then you would need to turn the system on and off.
Regarding the second part of your question, depending on the cost of electricity in your region of the country, and cost of the type of programmable thermostat that you would need to purchase . . . yes, it can make good sense to have a programmable thermostat automatically adjusting the room temperature for you. For example, if you are gone during the day, you could have your programmable thermostat setup so that it keeps your house at lower temperature during the day, but it turns the heat up at a time that will allow your home to be at a comfortable temperature by the time that you get home. And similarly, you can have it turn down the heat a little bit while you are sleeping, then come up to a higher temperature for around the time that you will be getting up in the morning. Even dialing down a few degrees over the entire heating system can help save you money.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from LeeAnn Martin on 10/21/2008
When we turn the switch on, on our gas fireplace the fireplace does not ignite. The piolit light is on but the gas logs are not buring. The damper is also open. What could be the problem.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/22/2008
Dear LeeAnn:
The possible reasons that the pilot light is on with your gas fireplace, but the fireplace is not burning can include:
1) If your fireplace has a thermostat, the thermostat could be defective, or set at a temperature that is lower than the current temperature in the room.
2) Your fireplace door could have a switch that must be in the closed position to operate, and if the door isn't fitting snugly, or if the switch is faulty, then this could be keeping the gas turned off to your logs.
3) There could be a loose wire somewhere in your system.
4) The pilot light sensor may not be reading the pilot light properly.
5) You could have a high limit on your vent pipe, which is there for safety reasons, and there could be a problem with it.
With the exception of possibly the door, the other items are fairly complicated to diagnose and correct, and we would suggest that you have a trained professional inspect your unit.
And if you smell gas at all, we suggest that you immediately turn off your fireplace, and open a window to air out your room. And you should contact a trained professional.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Kim on 10/22/2008
We recently had a survey done on our house where the electrics and everything were checked. Quite literally a day later there was bad odour coming from the washing machine. We have done a maintenance wash recently and the machine had been fine for 2 years prior to this survey. Could anything under the sink have been tampered with to cause this? many thanks
____________________ QUESTION from Mickey S. on 10/22/2008
I hope you can help. I noticed that water is leaking out the very bottom of the garbage disposal. I did some research and it seems the seal might need to be replaced. Strange thing is, it only leaks when the washing machine is running. Turning on water in the faucet and letting it run does not cause the leaking to occur. Only when the washing machine runs does it begin to leak. Is this natural or should I be looking for something different? Thx!!!
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/22/2008
Dear Kim:
Its hard to imagine what surveying your appliances could have done to have caused your washing machine to develop an odor the very next day. I'm wondering if its just a coincidence? I assume since you didn't mention it, that your washing machine is otherwise operating normally?
Regarding getting rid of the odor from your washing machine, assuming that this is a "mold or mildew" type smell, and that you have a front load washer? If so, this is actually a fairly common problem that occurs with front load washers. It is caused by water sitting on the gasket that goes around the door. There are a couple of things that you can do to eliminate this odor problem. First, after each washer load, you can try leaving the door open, so that the water around the door gasket can thoroughly dry out. Second, to get rid of the mold and mildew that has built up in your washer, you can try using products such as "Purewasher" (which you can find at www.smellywasher.com) or "Whirlout" (which you can find at http://www.summitbrands.com/brands/WhirlOut.aspx).
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/22/2008
Dear Mickey:
From what you've described, it sound like you have your washing machine and garbage disposal both connected to the same drain system. What could be happening is that if this drain is partially clogged then the high volume of water flow/pressure going into the drain from the washing machine discharge could be causing the water to back up into your garbage disposal unit, where is it able to leak out where the flange is not tight. And then when you are just running the sink by itself, the smaller volume of water is able to make it through the partially clogged drain, which is why you don't see the leak when you are just running the sink/disposal and not the washer.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Patti on 10/22/2008
We have baseboard heat downstairs, radiator heaters in upstairs. Only one radiator gets warm (VERY warm), one other gets minimally warm. The other 2 stay cold. Have tried bleeding them. Help?! Please.......Thanks...
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/22/2008
Dear Patti:
If you've already tried bleeding the two radiators that are not heating up, and if these two radiators are the ones located upstairs, then the problem could be that you heating system's expansion tank maybe empty. You would need to check the ball valve in the tank and fill the tank enough to get the ball to float when the system is cool.
On the other hand, if is not the upstairs radiators that are not heating up, then here is a webpage that describes solutions for different kinds of radiator problem situations, and hopefully you can find the situation that matches what you are seeing at your home:
http://www.diynot.com/pages/pl/pl033.php
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from azfinsya on 10/24/2008
my ceiling fan can't function..how can i know what's the problem of this fan and what steps must i do to repair it..
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/24/2008
Dear azfinsya:
If your ceiling fan is not turning on at all, then here's a web page that describes how to test whether your problem is at the fusebox (or circuit breaker), the switch, or with the ceiling fan itself:
http://www.hometips.com/ceiling-fan-does-not-work.html
To test the switch, however, requires that you are comfortable working around live electrical wires and that you have a voltage tester. So this may be something that you want to leave to a trained professional.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Cheryl Bender on 10/24/2008
My gas fireplace makes a small "poof" noise every so often when it's on. Almost like it is getting a little extra puff of gas in one spot. We recently bought the house and know that the fireplace was serviced just before we bought it because it was not working at all when we looked at the house to purchase. Can you give me any ideas why this is happening so I have some heads up before I call a repair man? Also, how safe/unsafe it is to use my unit?
I'm not sure if this is related but my gas oven also burns hotter at the back of the oven than in the front. I want to have someone come to look at that as well.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/24/2008
Dear Cheryl:
Is your gas fireplace operating on propane or natural gas? If you are running on propane and your gas fireplace makes only a small "poof" every once in a while, then this is probably due to slight irregularities in your gas supply, and should not be a problem. However, if you are referring to it making the "poof" sound when it FIRST comes on, then this could be caused by something like a small ember blocking your pilot light, causing a delayed ignition problem. To correct this, the pilot light area just needs to be cleaned out.
Regarding your second question, "hot spots" in a gas oven are very typical. If you don't have them already, you might want to consider putting two oven thermometers in your oven, one in the front and one in the back, to help you "get to know" your new gas oven.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Cheryl Bender on 10/24/2008
Thank you for your quick response. I am using natural gas for both the fireplace and the oven. The poofing from the fireplace comes after it's been on for a while and continues the entire time it's on. Is that also due to irregularities in the gas supply or would that be something else? If it is the gas supply, do I call a repair man or the gas company? Something else I noticed is that the glass is very very dirty even though it was cleaned less than 6 months ago and has only been used 5 or 6 times since then. We have had the pilot light on the entire time. My last fireplace did not get this dirty even after daily use. Any relation to my poofing problem?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/24/2008
Dear Cheryl:
Given that you are running natural gas and seeing soot forming on your glass, I would say that your sooting and "poofing" are likely both caused by your gas fireplace being out of adjustment (or having some blockages) which is causing the fuel-air mixture of your gas fireplace to be incorrect. Soot is produced when incomplete combustion occurs. The flame does not burn efficiently, and carbon particles (soot) are produced. A good indicator of this is if the flames in your fireplace are more yellow than blue.
Regarding who to help you with inspecting and adjusting your gas fireplace, I would suggest that you contact the manufacturer of your fireplace, and ask them for a list of trained technicians in your area. Many manufactures will have this information available on their websites.
To be on the very safe side, I would not recommend running your gas fireplace until it is properly adjusted.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Cheryl Bender on 10/24/2008
You are super-duper!!! Thank you so much for helping me out. I definitely appreciate it.
____________________ QUESTION from cowboy_up on 10/25/2008
My Kenmore washer, model 110.91220100, sometimes overflows. This problem is intermittent, and I believe I have traced the problem to the water inlet valves. However, I am not %100 on this. How do I know if it is in fact the inlet valves or if it might have something to do with the pressure switch?
____________________ QUESTION from cowboy_up on 10/25/2008
My Kenmore washer, model 110.91220100, sometimes overflows. This problem is intermittent, and I believe I have traced the problem to the water inlet valves. However, I am not %100 on this. How do I know if it is in fact the inlet valves or if it might have something to do with the pressure switch?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/25/2008
Dear cowboy_up:
If your washing machine is overflowing from time to time, the problem could be one of the water inlet valves, or it could be the pressure switch.
One way to test to see whether it is the water inlet valves or the pressure switch, is to run your washer with just hot water, and then run it again with just cold water. If it overflows when running either hot or cold, then the problem is likely your pressure switch. If your washing machine just overflows for only one of the valves (i.e., just running hot or cold water), then this valve is likely the problem.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from judith anders on 10/26/2008
what went out on my ge profile wizard if it does not drain and spin and how hard is it to fix?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/26/2008
Dear Judith:
If your washing machine doesn't both pump water out nor spin, first check to see if the motor is running. If you can hear the motor running and it is not spinning inside, then your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt or coupling. If this is the case, then you will probably want a trained professional to do this repair for you.
On the other hand, if you do not hear the motor running, then the lid switch may be defective. The lid switch is design to stop the machine from running if the lid is open. So if the lid is closed but your washer does not pump or spin, then the lid switch could be bad. The lid switch is typically found inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch to replace it.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Kesha on 10/26/2008
We are buying a house, inspection found that when the dishwasher is running water is seeping through to the outside between the brick and foundation. A plumber said it is the dishwasher and drain. Will we have to go through the wall or the foundation to fix this? Is it possible that installing a new dishwasher and drain will repair this?
____________________ QUESTION from Austin on 10/26/2008
I have a Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care II Heavy Duty 80 Series washing machine. The machine will run through the cycle and do everything except agitate during wash and rinse cycles. Do I need to replace the switch, or is there another problem?
____________________ QUESTION from Steve on 10/26/2008
I have a Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care II Heavy Duty 80 Series washer. It will do run through the entire cycle and do everything but agitate during the wash and rinse cycle. No problems with filling, draining or spinning, just agitating. Do just need to replace the switch, or is there another problem?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/26/2008
Dear Kesha:
Unfortunately, the answer is "it depends". If when your dishwasher is running you are seeing water seeping outside your house between the brick and your foundation, the problem could be with you dishwasher and / or its drain. But on the other hand, I've seen cases where the problem has been caused by a dishwasher / sink's drain pipe being routed through an outside wall, and then when the pipe got cold in the wall and froze, it burst. And then when the dishwasher was running, it would leak water between the brick and foundation, just like you described.
So until a trained professional can inspect your dishwasher, drain and plumbing, you won't know for sure what is the actual cause.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/26/2008
Dear Steve:
If your washing machine is not agitating, yes it could be that your lid switch is defective. But in addition to a defective lid switch, others causes of a washer agitator not working include problems with:
o motor coupler
o belts
o clutch
o drive motor
o drive pulleys
o transmission
o stipped agitator
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from ken on 10/29/2008
I have one, upstairs radiator that is not heating. In the beginning of the season I bed it and it worked great. Now it is the only one not working/heating. The last few mornings I tried to bleed it, hear air releasing for a few seconds, then nothing. Twice it got hot, but recently nothing. There are times when I open the bleeder valve and nothing, not water, no air.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/29/2008
Dear Ken:
If it just one of your upstairs radiator that is not heating up some of the time, and sometimes this gets better when you bleed it, but sometimes when you try to bleed it nothing at all comes out . . . then you may have a couple of issues going on here. It could be a combination of problems with both your heating system's expansion tank and possibly blockages around this particular radiator.
If you've already tried bleeding this upstairs radiator, and its still not heating up, then the problem could be that you heating system's expansion tank maybe empty. You would need to check the ball valve in the tank and fill the tank enough to get the ball to float when the system is cool.
On the other hand, if nothing at all comes out of this radiator when you try to bleed it, then here are a couple of things to check:
1) when you open the bleeder valve, have you tried putting something like a stiff paperclip in it, to see if the valve is clogged and trapping air in the radiator?
2) does this radiator have shutoff valves upstream and downstream of it that are closed?
3) another possibility is that sludge has formed in the pipes leading to the radiator and is creating a blockage that is keeping adequate water flow through this particular radiator.
Also, FYI, here is a webpage that describes solutions for different kinds of radiator problem situations:
http://www.diynot.com/pages/pl/pl033.php
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Graham on 10/31/2008
Hi
We have 3 radiators upstairs (one of which is a towel dryer in bathroom) and 2 radiators upstairs. I have bled all the radiators as we are now looking to use the heating regularly. Last time i used the system about a month ago, all was well but now when the heating is turned on there is a relatively high pitched pulsating sound that you can hear anywhere in the house...after about 45 minutes of the heating being on this sound stops.
The system has been on for about an hour now and I can hear the gentle flow of water in the upstairs radiator in my bedroom, I cannot hear a similar sound from the other radiator in my back bedroom (and this one seems hotter).
I think we have a gravity system with a tank of water upstairs (brown water so I assume this is the radiator water?)
What do you think could be causing the relative high pitched pulsating sound?
Many Thanks
Graham
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 10/31/2008
Dear Graham:
From what you described in your hot water radiator system and the high-pitched sound that you are hearing when the heat initially comes on, I would suggest that you first check to see if the expansion tank on your system has failed.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from kmpeters on 11/1/2008
The attic addition to my home was added 12 years ago. And I believe added to the existing heating system. I have a boiler with radiators in the main level. In the addition there are radiator baseboards, with a separate theromostat. I have bled the air out of the lines but still do not get any heat from any of the units in the addition. They are not ice cold but are far from warm. Would there have been a separate controller added when this addition was done in order to tie the existing heating unit to it? We are replacing the therostat to see if that makes a difference.
____________________ QUESTION from Ron on 11/1/2008
we have water circuit heat....it continues to run water thru the pipes for a long while (which can be heard in the baseboards of the rooms), before actually just working and warming the house like it should,when you cut hot water on the water heater makes a rattling sound like it isn't full could it just be my water heater on the blink and not my water circuit unit in all?....thanks for any info you can provide
____________________ QUESTION from Rose on 11/1/2008
I have an electric boiler , hot water radiators in a two story semidetached home. When I turn up the thermostat there often is a terrible racket - it sounds as if someone is using a pneumatic drill. Sometimes this noise goes on for quite some time, other times the noise stops after a while. There are times when the noise doesn't start at all. How can I get rid of the racket? What can be causing it? Two plumbers have been in to fix the problem without success. Help would be appreciated!
____________________ QUESTION from Robert Glaser on 11/1/2008
I have a 500 gallon hot tub on our deck. It has two filters.
I checked the filters today and one of them had a glue-like, mucous looking covering all over the filter. what is the substance and what can I do to stop it from happening again?
Robert Glaser
919 215 8137
____________________ QUESTION from Robert Glaser on 11/1/2008
I have a 500 gallon hot tub on our deck. It has two filters.
I checked the filters today and one of them had a glue-like, mucous looking covering all over the filter. what is the substance and what can I do to stop it from happening again?
Robert Glaser
919 215 8137
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/1/2008
Dear kmpeters:
If you have properly bled your upstairs radiators, and they are still not heating up enough, then your problem could be that your heating system's expansion tank is empty. You would need to check the ball valve in the tank and fill the tank enough to get the ball to float when the system is cool.
If this is not the problem (or if there are other symptoms that you didn't mention in your email), then here is a webpage that describes solutions for different kinds of radiator problem situations:
http://www.diynot.com/pages/pl/pl033.php
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/1/2008
Dear Ron:
I suspect that the problems with your hot water heater and your baseboard heating system are not directly related.
Let's start with the problem you are having with your water heater first. Its a bit difficult to diagnose problems with a noisy water heater without actually hearing the sound and physically seeing when it is occurring, but here are a few thoughts which will hopefully be helpful for you. If you are hearing a rattling sound when you are running your hot water, then the problem with your water heater may be with check valve type nipples installed on the top of your water heater, if you have them. If you have them, they are a good have because they can save some energy, but they also can be very annoying.
On the other hand, the noise that you are hearing from your water heater could be the sound of boiling water caused by excessive build-up of sediment in the bottom of your tank. This sediment could be causing the bottom of your tank to overheat and water to boil, which could be the noise that you are hearing. The remedy for this is to routinely backflush your water heater as described on the "Water Heater" page of our online Maintenance Library:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/waterheater.asp
Now, regarding your first problem, it sounds like your baseboard radiators are heating up fine, but you think that it is circulating water for too long before it actually heats up the baseboard radiators. Am I understanding you correctly? What I'm wondering is if whether the sound that you are hearing in your baseboard heating system pipes is the sound of trapped air that is circulating in with the water, and causing your system to operating inefficiently. If you haven't tried it already, I would suggest that you bleed all of the air out of your system.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/1/2008
Dear Rose:
Without hearing the noise and watching your system to see exactly what is happening, its very difficult to accurately diagnose what could be causing the noise you are hearing form your hot water radiator system. Since you have already had a couple of plumbers looking at your system, I assume that they would have caught all of the potentially obvious problems.
But here are a couple of thoughts about what else could be causing the noise that you describe:
1) your radiators or pipes that return water from your radiators back to your boiler are not pitched properly (i.e., that they do not have the correct slope to allow water to flow back to the boiler). As such, the steam is meeting the condensed water and exploding back into steam, which could be the cause of your noise. To fix this, a plumber would need to check and adjust the slopes of your radiators and pipes.
2) another possible cause is that one of your pipes goes through a tight spot in your wall somewhere, and when the pipe heats up and expands, it chatters as it tries to expand through the hole that is too tight.
Again, it is very hard to diagnose a noise problem like this without actually seeing your system.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Rose on 11/2/2008
Thank you for your speedy reply. The system worked well for many years, without any problems. The problem cropped up recently. I suspect the plumbers were not familiar with an electric boiler system.
Rose
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/2/2008
Rose:
Glad to be of help.
If your system has worked well for years, then the problem is likely not due to the pipe going through a tight spot somewhere inside your walls (unless you have moved walls, etc.). But over time, your radiators or piping may have shifted, and this could cause them to lose their proper pitch.
If this does not turn out to be the problem, just let us know, and we'll try to come up with another idea for you.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/2/2008
Robert:
It sounds like you may be having a problem with a build-up of oils and lotions that is washing off from people coming into your hot tub spa. Many hot tub manufacturers will tell you to have people take thorough showers with soap before entering your hot tub. Of course, in reality, this is not always practical.
Here are some links to information on causes and remedies for build-ups forming on hot tub spa filters, and hopefully one of these will apply to your specific situation:
http://hottubsource.blogspot.com/2006/07/what-causes-yellow-scum-build-up-in.html
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080303115711AA2icpA
http://www.squidoo.com/hot-tub-filters
http://www.rhtubs.com/info/filter.htm
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Holly on 11/3/2008
I accidentally dropped a number of "c" batteries behind a radiator. This old radiator sits beneath a window, so the sill extends into the space above it, partially blocking access to the back. The batteries are the exact size to wedge tightly between the radiator outcroppings. The radiator no longer has a functioning knob to turn on and off. Can you think of any way I can remove them, or will the radiator need to be removed? Also, can I just leave them there, or is it a fire hazard?
____________________ QUESTION from Holly on 11/3/2008
I accidentally dropped a number of "c" batteries behind a radiator. This old radiator sits beneath a window, so the sill extends into the space above it, partially blocking access to the back. The batteries are the exact size to wedge tightly between the radiator outcroppings. The radiator no longer has a functioning knob to turn on and off. Can you think of any way I can remove them, or will the radiator need to be removed? Also, can I just leave them there, or is it a fire hazard?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/3/2008
Dear Holly:
Unfortunately, yes, you should remove the dry cell batteries that have gotten stuck behind your radiator.
If you have ever opened an old flashlight and seen what happens when a battery has begun to corrode and leak, you can image what will happen over time when the batteries stuck against your hot radiator begin to leak.
As far as getting the batteries back out, it sounds like you will have to remove the radiator to get to them.
But on the other hand, batteries are magnetic, so if you have a strong magnet, some duct tape, and maybe a wire coat hanger that you can bend in such a way that you can get under your widow sill and behind your radiator, then you might be able to lift these batteries back out. One thing that will make this a bit difficult, is that your radiator is likely cast iron, and it will probably be difficult keeping the magnet away from the radiator as you are trying to lower it down to where your batteries are. So its a difficult maneuver, but probably worth trying before removing your radiator.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Maria Cech on 11/4/2008
My house has plastic plumbing. The inside valve doesn't have the small drain plug. There is a small plug on the pipe above the valve. After I closed the inside valve a opened the small one, the water began to pouring. The bucket was full within a minute. I had realy hard time to shut it off. Is there a valve that doesn't have to have the small drain plug. Please advise. I am a female, who lives alone. Thank you in advance.
Maria
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/4/2008
Dear Maria:
Sure, we would be glad to try to help you.
First, what is it that you are trying to do? Which inside valve are your referring to? Is this one that is going to a particular appliance or sink?
If you could give us a little more information, we can then help you with some suggestions.
Sincerely, Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Maria on 11/4/2008
Hi,
I was trying to shut off the outside water outlets. There are 2 water outlets - 1 in a garage, 1 at the rear of the house. I turned off 2 valves in a basement, then went to garage and backyard and opened valves. And then according to my friends I was suppose to drain the remaining water between valves (inside of the house to the backyard and inside of the house to the garage). When I opened the small drain plug in the basement, water began running so hard that I had to shut it off and I was very lucky that I found it.
My question to you is: Winter maintenance, when you drain water between outside line valve and inside valve, must you always use the small plug or is it possible that some valves simply do not have that small plug (I would say my certainly don't).
I am desperate. My house warranty expired in July 2008, I did not touch the small plug last year. My builder is not willing to help.
Maria
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/4/2008
Dear Maria:
Now I think I understand what you are trying to do. It sounds as part of preparing for winter, that you want to shut off and drain your outside water faucets, so that they don't freeze and burst over the winter, right?
What you are trying to do is exactly the right thing to be doing prior to the winter. If you live in a region of the country that gets below freezing during the winter, then draining your outside water valves is very important. Freezing water can create enough pressure to crack open valves and piping, and can result in flooding inside of your home.
A couple of things:
First, if you haven't already, you can go to our online Maintenance Library to the page on Outside Water Faucet Maintenance:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/outsidewaterfaucet.asp
On this page it will describe the procedure for properly shutting off and draining your outside water faucets. You will also notice that there are two photographs on this page. The picture on the left is your outside water faucet, and the picture on the right is a small valve that will be located on the inside of your house, immediately inside from where the outside faucet is located. You will want to close both valves tightly (both inside and outside valves), and then remove the small little "cap" that is at the bottom of the small valve that is right inside your house (this drains out the water that is trapped between the two valves). If water keeps coming out when this little cap is removed, then this valve has not been properly closed. This could be because the valve handle has not been turned hard enough or turned in the wrong direction, or the valve is bad.
Secondly, I see that you have signed up for our free Newsletter, but you might also want to sign up for our Free Personalized Reminders, which will allow you to input all of the particular features of your home, and then when you get your monthly Newsletter, it will include inside the Newsletter the reminders for the tasks that you should do for your particular home, to help keep you safe and saving energy, and help protect the value of your home.
Hope this is helpful. If you need anything else, just let us know.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Maria on 11/4/2008
Hi,
Yes, that's exactly what I was doing.
I have checked you Maintenance Library on Outside Water Faucet Maintenance and if you look at the picture, the valve inside the house doesn't have the small drain plug next to it. It is located 10 cm above the valve and when I open it, the water is pouring out.
I just want to know if it is ok
Maria
____________________ QUESTION from Michelle on 11/4/2008
I have electric heat with baseboard heaters. Last year we replaced all the thermostats. Here is the problem, no matter what we set the temperature at its either to hot or to cold, the thermostats don't seem to turn off when they should, it can be a perfectly comfortable temperature and the heater is still blasting, I have to physically turn it off. We did actually replace the thermostats twice because we thought we got rejects? Any ideas why my heaters go on but don't turn off?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/4/2008
Dear Maria:
It is alright if the small drain plug is located next to the inside shut-off valve, as long as this small drain plug is located in between the inside shut-off valve and the outside faucet.
If this is indeed the case, and after you close both valves that water continually flows out of the small drain plug, then the inside shut-off valve is either not closing completely or the valve has gone bad.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Michelle on 11/4/2008
I have electric baseboard heat. Last year we replaced all the thermostats twice because they were turning on but not turning off. This year we are having the same problem, theyhave to be set VERY low, 50-55 to keep the rooms 60-65 and once they go on they don't shut off, I have to manually lower the thermostat to turn the baseboards off. Any ideas what else it could be? It can't be the thermostats we have been through 2 sets.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/4/2008
Dear Michelle:
If you have replaced the thermostats for your electric baseboard heaters, and they turn on, but won't turn back off when the room comes up to temperature, here are a couple things that you might want to check:
1) check to be sure that that the thermostats that you installed are the right type for your particular electric baseboard heaters (for example, single pole versus double pole).
2) check to see if there is open space behind where your thermostats are mounted, such that cold air from inside the wall could be blowing onto the thermostat and keeping it too cool (which could be causing it to stay on).
Hope this is helpful. If neither of these turn out to be the problem, then just let us know, and we'll see if we can come up with something else for you.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Holly on 11/5/2008
Thank you so much! I'm afraid I recruited a friendly handy neighbor to implement your idea, and he used tape but not magnets, but they are all out of there now.
Best,
Holly
____________________ QUESTION from John on 11/6/2008
In my tiled shower their is some grout that is missing. The grout lines are less than 1/8 wide. Can I remove the grout that is failing and replace it with caulking? If so , which would be the best caulking to usr? Thanks, John
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/6/2008
Dear John:
In a tiled shower, caulk should just be used where planes intersect (such as wall to floor, or wall to wall), where there is the possibility of settling or movement. Caulking is flexible, and as such, can accommodate these slight movements without cracking.
If the grout that is missing in your tiled shower is between tiles on a flat wall, ceiling or floor, then I would suggest that you replace the missing grout in these areas with new grout. Grout will last longer, and it also allows these areas to "breathe" as they are drying out. This is especially important for the bottom third of your shower which tends to get more soaked.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Max on 11/6/2008
Hi,
I have a puzzling problem with baseboard heating in my house. It is a two floor house with 3 zones.
2 zones on the first floor and 1 on the second floor. When I turn on the thermostat for zone that heats main portion of the 1st floor (zone1), the radiators of the upstairs zone (zone2) get hot.
When I feel the pipes, the 1st floor zone1 supply line is hot. The 2nd floor zone2 supply line is cold. The thermostat of the 2nd floor zone is turned off. The house has a return line that runs the length of the house in the basement. There is a 3 way T connector on the opposite end of the house, which has the 2 returns from the zone1, and one return from zone2. That return line from 2nd floor is hot.
I had personally inspected the plumbing with my oil company repair man. All the splits and pipes are accounted for, and the situation does not makes sense to him. He says that there is noway the zone2 can get hot from the return line.
Each zone has an electric motor, as well as the return pipe. They added backflow check valves to each zone, next to the motors, but it did not help. The second zone (zone3), serving another part of first floor stays cold as expected.
Is there a reasonable explanation for whats going on?
thanks
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/6/2008
Dear Max:
If I understand you problem correctly, the baseboard heating zone on your second floor is getting hot, even though the thermostat for the second floor is turned off, right?
A couple of thoughts:
1) Have you checked to ensure that your thermostat on the second floor is operating properly? If it is defective or not wired properly, then it could be calling for heat, even when it is in the "off" position.
2) Does your second floor baseboard zone only get hot when you turn on the first floor zone 1? In other words, if you have both zones 1 and 3 turned off, does zone 2 upstairs ever get hot on its own? Also, when you say that the "2nd floor zone 2 line is cold", where are you testing the line? Is it down near your furnace, or up closer to the second floor? If the 2nd floor zone only gets hot when you are running zone 1, and the pipe is cold near the furnace, then the next thing to check is whether the supply pipes for zones 1 and 2 are running side-by-side for a long way inside the same floor joists, such that it could be heating the zone 3 piping. I've seen this happen where a heating supply pipe was run along side a cold water pipe, and when the cold water faucet was turned on, the water would come out scalding hot. But in your case, the question would be whether when you turn on zone 1 (with zone 3 upstairs turned off), does the circulation pump for zone 3 also turn on (which would circulate the water heated up by running next to the zone 1 piping)?
If you could give me a little more information for the questions above, I can try to better diagnose your system's problems.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Max on 11/6/2008
Hi Wizard,
I embedded your questions, to simplify the answers.
>If I understand you problem correctly, the baseboard heating zone on your second floor is getting hot, even though the thermostat for the second floor is turned off, right?
Correct.
>1) Have you checked to ensure that your thermostat on the second floor is operating properly? If it is defective or not wired properly, then it could be calling for heat, even when it is in the "off" position.
Yes, I have checked it. It is not calling for heat, because the Zone2 motor is not running, the control panel is also not indicating demand from the zone.
>2) Does your second floor baseboard zone only get hot when you turn on the first floor zone 1? In other words, if you have both zones 1 and 3 turned off, does zone 2 upstairs ever get hot on its own?
No, the Zone2(upstairs) never gets hot if Zones1 and 3 are off.
> Also, when you say that the "2nd floor zone 2 line is cold", where are you testing the line? Is it down near your furnace, or up closer to the second floor?
I said zone2 supply line is cold, and I tested it right next to the furnace. I touched the electric motor and further down the line, until it enters the structure of the house and goes up between the walls.
> If the 2nd floor zone only gets hot when you are running zone 1, and the pipe is cold near the furnace, then the next thing to check is whether the supply pipes for zones 1 and 2 are running side-by-side for a long way inside the same floor joists, such that it could be heating the zone 3 piping.
No, the pipes run in parallel, but there is a good foot between them. And then the pipe for Zone2 goes to the second floor, so it is not touching or next to Zone1 piping.
> But in your case, the question would be whether when you turn on zone 1 (with zone 3 upstairs turned off), does the circulation pump for zone 3 also turn on (which would circulate the water heated up by running next to the zone 1 piping)?
All this happens only when Zone1 (main zone downstairs) circulation pump is running. The other 2 zones are definitely off. The pumps are cold to touch.
And thats the mystery....
thanks,
Max
____________________ QUESTION from linda on 11/9/2008
I moved into my home a year a go and the room that stores the laundry room, boiler furnance and hot water tank are all in the same room in the basement. There use to be a door to this room and it was removed. I would like to replace the door but I donot know if it was removed beacuse of ventilation issues. My question is, if I put a nother door up should it be a door that has vents or should I just leave the door off? There are no windows in this room.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/9/2008
Dear Linda:
You should check with the building inspector for the town that you live in for the specific regulations for your particular town. But I suspect that you will find that a room that contains a boiler in it will need to have a door to close it off from the rest of the house.
And yes, assuming your furnace is burning oil, propane, natural gas, etc., then it needs to "breathe", that is, it needs to have adequate supply of air (oxygen) coming into the area.
Some homes have what is called a "fan-in-a-can", which when the furnace turns on, it brings in air from outside your home. This is much more efficient than bringing air from inside your house, since air from the outside is not air conditioned or heated.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Pat on 11/9/2008
I have a lopi wood stove about 20 years old.
It has a handle on the side ( arm style )and a slide in and out handle in the front. what dose what and how do they need to be set when having a fire ?
____________________ QUESTION from Pat on 11/9/2008
I have a lopi wood stove about 20 years old.
It has a handle on the side ( arm style )and a slide in and out handle in the front. what dose what and how do they need to be set when having a fire ?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/10/2008
Dear Pat:
I tried to find you a link to a webpage with operating manuals for Lopi wood stoves. But it looks like their website is down. I was able to find this link for you, for an operating manual for Lopi's Endeavor model wood stove, but I don't know if this is the model that you have.
However, here is the email address for their parent company, Travis Industries: products@travis-inc.com They should be able to give you a link to an online manual, or could send you a hard copy.
And here is the website for Travis: http://www.travisproducts.com/
I would strongly suggest that you contact them for an operating manual for your particular model of wood stove. Improper operation and maintenance of a woodstove can result in overfiring or carbon monoxide leakage.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from David Holeman, Sr. on 11/10/2008
I bought a 15 year old home with marble flooring in the master bath. Bordering the shower, which once had leaks,the marble has dark brownish stains which appear to be deep into the stone. Can these stains be removed?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/10/2008
Dear David:
Here is a webpage that describes how to remove various types of stains from marble:
http://eurotechmarble.com/removingstains.htm
Note, however, that you will need to determine first what is the cause of your brownish stains. Is it rust? Mildew? Iron which occurs naturally in the stone? Because as you will see on the webpage, the method for removing the stain will be different, depending on the type of stain that it is.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from David on 11/11/2008
Your response is very helpful.
Since it was water leaking from the shower that caused the stain and it is brown in color, I will treat it for rust first and then for algea. I live in Baton Rouge, LA where the water is extremely soft. Will this promote a rust stain?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/11/2008
David:
Glad we could be helpful to you.
Usually rust staining is associated more with hard water that with soft water.
Good luck, and if you need anything else, just let us know.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Ed May on 11/11/2008
I recently purchased an older home with hot water baseboard heat. I'm missing 15 of those clips that slide onto the louvers and attach them to the baseboard. They are slantfin. Do you know how to obtain them?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/11/2008
Dear Ed:
Here's a webpage with a list of radiant heat parts suppliers:
http://www.traditional-building.com/article/radside.htm
I've used this for hard-to-find parts in the past.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from phil baker on 11/13/2008
I have a boiler, approx 10 yrs old, in our new home's basement. I've never even heard of one! The radiators in the house all get nice and warm and look majestic. What do I need to do to the boiler? There are controls on it that I don't recognize.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/13/2008
Dear Phil:
The most important thing you can do for your hot water heating system's boiler is having a trained service technician do an inspection and maintenance servicing of it once a year. Other than that, you should ordinarily not need to make adjustments during its normal operation.
Having this annual inspection and servicing done is VERY important, both from a safety standpoint and also for energy efficiency. The safety inspection includes checking the pressure relief valve and ensuring that your burner and exhaust ducting are both operating correctly.
The things that you should have your service technician do are shown on our furnace webpage of our online Maintenance Library at:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/furnace.asp
If you have any additional questions, just let us know.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from CK on 11/14/2008
I've been reading through your baseboard heating Q & A. Our system is not knocking or hammering, we have sloshing/flowing water sounds on the 2nd floor. (The first floor heaters are on a different thermostat and seem fine.) Thanks for your help.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/14/2008
Dear CK:
If what you are hearing in your baseboard heating system on the second floor is a "gurgling" sort of sound, then I would suspect that what you are hearing is being caused by air trapped in your system. Not only does this cause an annoying sound, but also it will prevent your second floor from heating up efficiently.
If you haven't tried it already, I would suggest that you bleed your system to purge out the trapped air.
On the other hand, if you have already bled your system and this didn't solve your problem, just let us know, we can try to diagnose your problem further.
Hope this is helpful.
____________________ QUESTION from Lori on 11/16/2008
I just replaced the thermal fuse in my clothes dryer. Does it make a difference as to how it goes back on? It is working.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/16/2008
Dear Lori:
If I understand your question, you've replaced the thermal fuse in your clothes dryer, and are wondering which direction the fuse gets installed back in your dryer? If this is your question, the answer is that depending on the model of dryer, it should not matter, but its usually best to install the new one the same way as the old one came out.
On the other hand, if your question is what is the correct procedure for turning your clothes dryer back on after replacing the thermal fuse, then the most important thing is that you thoroughly clear the dryer vent piping before turning your dryer back on. The reason for this is that your thermal fuse blew because your dryer exceeded its temperature limit, and this is usually because lint has built up your dryer's vent pipe, blocking air flow and making your clothes dryer run too hot.
One additional thought for you is that if your thermal fuse has blown, then when you replace the thermal fuse you should also replace your dryer's safety thermostat at the same time. The reason is that if your dryer has been running hot enough to blow your thermal fuse, then it has likely been doing a lot of cycling on your safety thermostat and therefore it has been significantly stressed. In fact, most manufacturers sell these in kits that include both parts.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from noisy heat on 11/16/2008
I have a base board heating system in my home. I have alot of air noise and pipe "banging" from the base boards around the floor. Do I need to flush or bleed the system? The system is about 40 years old. Are there preventative tasks I can perform in the future.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/16/2008
Dear 'noisy heat':
Since you are hearing both air noises and banging coming from the pipes of your baseboard heating system, then yes, I suspect that your problem is that your system needs to have the air bled out of it. Regarding routine preventative maintenance tasks that you can perform in the future, you can see these on our Baseboard Heating System webpage at:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/baseboardheating.asp
And you should also look at the routine maintenance tasks for your furnace, which can be found at:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/furnace.asp
You can sign up for personalized maintenance reminders from us for these, plus the other features of you home, and the reminders will be included in with your monthly Newsletters. You can sign up for your personalized reminders at:
http://www.home-wizard.com/AMR.asp
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from jim on 11/17/2008
Hi, I have three zone hot water baseboard heat and the circulator pump for the top floor broke. I never heated that floor anyways. To insure that nobody would turn it on, I disconnected the power supply. My question is will it affect the heating system if I choose never to replace it? Also when I bleed my system (pipes are noisy) will it be necessary to bleed that zone also? Thanks!
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/17/2008
Dear Jim:
Does your piping allow you to block and drain the supply and return for the zone going up to your top floor? If so, then you should be fine draining this zone, blocking the supply and return valves, and leaving the power supply to its circulation pump disconnected.
If you are not able to block in this zone and drain it, then water (and trapped air) may be able to be drawn through the circulation pump (even if it is not pumping). So therefore, yes, you would still need to bleed this zone as well, even if you were never planning to use it. Also, I'm don't think you want stagnate water just sitting in the pipes in this zone year after year. So you would still need to flush the pipes out from time to time.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from jim on 11/17/2008
Your answer helped a lot. There is a valve before (above) the pump, but not after. All three zones are alike...the pumps all connect directly to a larger common pipe with no valves to "isolate" the bad zone. Looking at what you've told me I guess I'll be changing the circulator pump afterall. I'm gonna go back and read through all the help you've given to others and see if it's a big deal...it looks very simple ( 4 bolts ), but my concern will be filling the system back up. Thanks again!
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/17/2008
Jim:
. . . glad we could help you.
It sounds like you are a fairly handy person, so I would think that you would find replacing your circulator pump for your top floor zone rather straight-forward for you.
However, here are a few tips that might help you:
1) Remember to disconnect the power supply before working on the circulator pump. Electricity and water don't mix very well.
2) Since you cannot completely isolate this part of your system, after you drain it, and replace your pump, you will want to be sure to bleed out all of the air.
If you haven't already found it in our "Question and Answer" section of either the Ask-the-Wizard page or on the Baseboard Heating System page, here is the procedure for bleeding the air out of a baseboard heating system:
First shut off your boiler and make a note of the water pressure. Next locate the self-feeding (auto-makeup) water valve and ensure that the make-up water supply is connected and water is available. Then open up all of you valves that go to your various heating zones. Then close all of the shut-off valves. Next, attach a short piece of garden hose to one of the spigots coming off of the return line that goes back to your boiler. While manually opening the auto-makeup valve, open the spigot and let the water run in to a bucket or a drain. BE VERY CAREFUL, as the water coming out of the hose will likely be very hot. Let it run until you no longer see any air bubbles, which could take several minutes. While you are doing this, keep an eye on the water pressure and don't let it get above 25 PSI. If needed to control the pressure, release the auto-makeup valve momentarily. After you have stopped seeing air bubbles, release the auto makeup valve and close spigot. Allow the water pressure to return to normal. You then repeat these steps until all of your zones have been bled. When done, close all of your zone valves and open all of your shut-off valves. Then check the water pressure, which should be the same as what you noted at the beginning. And then finally, turn your boiler back on.
If you have any additional questions, just let us know.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Maggie on 11/18/2008
My apartment has old radiators that smell sour or other bad smell. What is that and what can I do to fix this problem.
____________________ QUESTION from Connie on 11/18/2008
We just bought a house that has an outside hot tub. It's up and running-- seemingly okay. When we are not using it-- should the motor be running? Like-- all the time? And what temperature should it be set at-- when we are not using it? I guess I just want to make sure we are running it energy efficiently.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/18/2008
Dear Connie:
You are asking very good questions, and its great that you are thinking about energy efficiency for your hot tub.
Regarding your first question as to whether it is alright that your hot tub motor is running all the time, the answer is that it depends on the what kind of hot tub system that you have. Some hot tub systems are designed to have their filter motors running for 4 hours twice a day, however, other systems are low wattage and are designed to run continuously. The best thing to do is to contact the manufacturer for the particular system that is installed with your hot tub.
And regarding your second question about what temperature your hot tub should be set at when it is not in use, this will depend on how you plan to use your hot tub. Is it just once in a while? Or do you plan to use it once or more a day? And how long are you willing to wait for the tub to come up to temperature?
Here is a guide to hot tub energy efficiency that is published by Washington State University:
http://www.energyideas.org/documents/factsheets/spatips.pdf
It has some good suggestions on how to operate your hot tub in an energy efficient manner, and things you can do to reduce your hot tub energy bill, which it sounds like what you are looking for.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Tom on 11/18/2008
I have a baseboard hot water heating system. It is in a second hpome that i cannot aford to keep warm throuout the winter in NORTHERN MAINE,, madawaska. Can I rplace the water with antifreeze and avoid burst pipes, then run the heating system without draining the antifreeze?
____________________ QUESTION from Conrad on 11/18/2008
Hi.
I have a cast-iron hot water radiator on the main floor of my home which connects to a pipe that goes under the floor. The pipe attached to the radiator is quite rusty and pieces are starting to crumble off. We are doing a basement renovation and I have seen the underside of the piping and it looks in equally bad shape. I imagine if it can be repaired it will be quite an undertaking (ie. tearing out some floor to get it out), can it even be done? Do we have any other options? Thanks.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/18/2008
Dear Tom:
Yes, you definitely can put anti-freeze in your baseboard heating system if you are not going to be using it over the winter. In fact, even if you were going to be using it on a limited basis, say just on weekends, it would still be a good idea to put in anti-freeze to keep the pipes from bursting if there were a power failure during the week.
You should check with your local plumbing supply company to see what type of anti-freeze that they recommend for your particular location and system, and what percent mix that you should target for.
Regarding running the system with the anti-freeze in it, yes, you can, but the system will not operate quite as efficiently, since the anti-freeze reduces the heat transfer properties.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Todd on 11/18/2008
Hi there. I have a steam boiler system. I recently turned on the boiler for the first time this year, and a day or so later, my wife noticed water coming from under the bed. When I investigated, I found that water was coming from the radiator nut to shut-off valve threaded connection. It never did this in the past. I thought it might be water in the system or something, but after removing the radiator, opening the valve, (no water, only steam), applying thread paste and re-installaing the radiator, water still gushed out of the connection. Could this be caused by a stuck radiator air vent? Thanks.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/18/2008
Dear Conrad:
Without actually seeing your particular situation, its difficult to give you specific advice. But with that said, it sounds like you have a couple of options:
1) use an old screwdriver, wire brush (or wire wheel attached to a drill), naval jelly, etc. to clean away all of the rust from the pipe that goes to your radiator. Check to be sure there is no water seeping onto the pipe that could accelerate the rust returning.
2) depending on how you are doing the renovation in your basement, you could create an access panel that would allow you to inspect or replace the section of pipe if it further deteriorates in the future.
3) you could cut out the section of bad pipe (assuming that it actually is bad enough to warrant replacement), and replace with new.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/19/2008
Dear Todd:
I suspect that the problem is that you used thread paste instead of PTFE teflon tape on the threads. The heating up and cooling down of your radiator and piping can put a lot of stress on the connection causing it to open slightly and leak, but the flexible PTFE tape will keep the threads sealed tight.
If you haven't tried it already, wrap the PTFE tape generously and tightly around the threads. If you can get around 10 winds, this would be good. And other hint, be sure that you are wrapping the tape in the correct direction (along with the direction that the threads will be winding in, so that it tightens rather than unravels the tape).
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Catherine F Luthman on 11/19/2008
purchased a home with 2-zone heating, second zone is for the rec. room which we do not use and would like to turn off the heat. If I turn off the water at the furnace leading to the rec. room, do I have to shut off anything on the furnace? Thermostat is set at 55o but is registering 70o
____________________ QUESTION from Catherine F Luthman on 11/19/2008
purchased a home with 2 zone hot water baseboard heat. Zone 2 is in rec. room which is not used. If I turn the water off at the furnace leading to the rec. room is it necessary to do anything with the furnace? Thermastat in rec. room is set and 50o but reads 70o
____________________ QUESTION from Catherine F Luthman on 11/19/2008
no message
____________________ QUESTION from Cathy Luthman on 11/19/2008
purchased a home with 2-zone heating, second zone is for the rec. room which we do not use and would like to turn off the heat. If I turn off the water at the furnace leading to the rec. room, do I have to shut off anything on the furnace? Thermostat is set at 55o but is registering 70o
____________________ QUESTION from johnmoore on 11/19/2008
We have an attic fan with temperture/humidity activation. The attic fan has been running constantly through the nights for the last several months (not sure about before that since this is a new house to us).
It is November and the typical daytime temps are around 30-50F and night temps around 10-30F.
Concerned, I placed a remote temperature/humidity monitor in the attic. What I found was that the humidity shoots up into the nineties as the sun goes down setting off the fan. It remains this high until the late morning/early afternoon. The temperture is the same as the outside as the attic is soffett/gable vented. I have no idea why the humidity is getting so high at nightfall.
Is it possible that the soffet is blocked? If so how would I check that and how could it get so humid in the attic when the indoor and outdoor humidity is below 40% or so?
Thanks for any insight you can offer.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/19/2008
Catherine / Cathy:
We have tried several times to send the answer to your question to the email addresses that you have registered with Home-Wizard.com, and they have all come back non-deliverable.
Could you please check that the email address that you put in your Home-Wizard.com profile is correct, or that you do not have a spam filter with AOL that is set to block messages from Home-Wizard. This way we will be able to send you a response to your question.
Thanks,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/19/2008
Dear John Moore:
There are three general reasons why humidity can become high in an attic: 1) poor ventilation; 2) improper insulation; and 3) heated air from living areas getting into the attic. Then as the temperature drops, the moisture condenses out of the cooler air.
Examples of poor ventilation can be from poorly designed or blocked roof vents, which depending on your particular home, could be ridge vents, gable vents, soffit vents, etc.
Examples of improper insulation include: insufficient or displaced insulation; insulation that blocks your roof vents; lack of vapor barriers; poor sealing of openings to warm living spaces; etc.
And then examples of heated air from living spaces can include: bathroom / shower fans that vent into the attic (or has ducting that goes through the attic which is leaking); stove fans that vent or leak into the attic; clothes dryers that vent or leak into the attic; wall spaces, especially from the area where your furnace is, that allow warm air to travel up inside the walls and then leak into the attic.
Of course, it could be a combination of several of the above.
Given that your humidity problem gets worse at night, the question is how much of this is due to the falling temperatures in the evening, versus it being because of things like cooking vents, bathroom/shower fans, furnace room air, etc. that could be coming on in the evening.
Is this helpful?
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/19/2008
Dear Maggie:
A couple of thoughts about what could be causing your old radiators to give off a bad sour smell:
1) are there damp surfaces around your radiators that could have become moldy, and then smell badly when they get heated up? If so, you will need to stop the source of this moisture, and dry these areas out completely.
2) has lint, dust, etc. built up on your radiators? Is so, you will want to thoroughly clean your radiators.
3) have your radiators become corroded, and when heated it gives off a foul smell? If so, you will want to check for leaks and treat your radiators to eliminate the corrosion.
Is this helpful?
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Raman on 11/20/2008
I have a 5 zone baseboard heating system. My question is it takes a very long time to heat up the zone i.e. one zone is for the family room (20 X 14) and it takes up 3 hours or more to come upto 68 from 60. I did vacum (even though it was not easy) and tried to remove any dust from the fins.
____________________ QUESTION from Raman on 11/20/2008
I have a 5 zone baseboard heating system. My question is it takes a very long time to heat up the zone i.e. one zone is for the family room (20 X 14) and it takes up 3 hours or more to come upto 68 from 60. I did vacum (even though it was not easy) and tried to remove any dust from the fins.
____________________ QUESTION from Diane Walker on 11/20/2008
Our NC crawlspace is ventilated and damp. There are no drainage issues, the dampness is from the air and ground. Contractors have proposed two solutions. Which is best? 1. Vapor barrier on floor and walls with dehumidifier. 2. insulated walls(thermax), poly barrier on floor, remove insulation from under floor, vent some air from living space to crawl space. Your help would be appreciated. Thanks!
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/20/2008
Dear Diane:
Its difficult to say exactly without being able to physically examine your house, for example, to see the size of the crawlspace relative to the size of your living space, and to see how the crawlspace is currently being ventilated, etc.
But from what you described, if your problem with your crawlspace is that it is too damp, I would lean towards your first option of adding a vapor barrier on the floor and walls and using a dehumidifier (which would help separate the crawlspace from the living space, and then deal with the humidity problem in the crawlspace), rather than the second option of removing the insulation under the floor and venting air from living space to the crawl space (which would essentially be integrate the crawlspace with the living space).
The risk of the second option is that you are not reducing the humidity of the crawl space, rather, you are potentially moving it into your living space by somewhat connecting these spaces together (i.e., insulating the crawlspace walls and floors, but removing the insulation under the floor and allowing air from the living space to vent into the crawlspace area).
A couple of other thoughts that you might want to also consider:
1) when you say the crawlspace is ventilated but damp, is there anything that you can do to increase the ventilation of the crawlspace to and from the outside?
2) have you checked to see if there is air from the living space that is getting into the crawlspace? If you have warm air from a shower/bathroom or kitchen fan vent pipe that is leaking into your crawlspace, then when this warm air hits the cold crawlspace it can cause condensation / humidity. Similarly, if you have poor seals (weatherstipping, cracks, etc.) between your living spaces and your crawlspace, then this can be another way that warm moist air can cause condensation / humidity in your crawlspace.
3) there is also a cost tradeoff for essentially having more living space conditioned air (the air that vents into the crawlspace area), versus running a de-humidifier.
But again, its difficult to exactly say which option is better without being able to see specifically what your situation looks like.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/20/2008
Dear Raman:
If with your 5 zone baseboard heating system only one zone is not working well, one question is whether this is a new problem, or is it something that you have always had a problem with? In other words, is it a system design problem where there is not enough hot water supply to serve the size of this zone of your house?
Assuming that this is a new problem, here is a list of potential causes as to why this zone could be taking so long to heat up:
1) the zone needs to be bled of air.
2) your circulation pump for this zone has gone bad and is not circulating enough hot water.
3) the check valve in this zone is partially stuck, and is reducing the flow rate of hot water (you might be lucky enough to solve this problem with some raps on the valve with a piece of wood, NOT a hammer).
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from r picco on 11/20/2008
i have hydronic heating system, however when installed there was n't enough heating fins attached to the piping, where can i find replacement or extra fins to attach to my heaters??
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/21/2008
Dear r picco:
Here is a link to a list of suppliers of radiant heat parts and products:
http://www.traditional-building.com/article/radside.htm
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Lynne on 11/21/2008
WHy does my base board heating pipes knock and bang when the boiler kicks on and how can I stop this... I have secured all the pipes under the house so they are no longer loose and they still make a banging noise
____________________ QUESTION from hahnsmith on 11/22/2008
My 2 year old kenmore front loading washing machine lights up when I try to wash a load. After a few minutes the lights just go off and nothing else happens. I really can't afford a big repair bill. This was a 900 dollar machine and I hoped it would last longer than this. Any suggestions?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/22/2008
Dear Lynne:
Here are some potential causes of the knocking and banging noises that you are hearing when your boiler for your baseboard heating system turns on:
1) Air is trapped in the line, which needs to be bled out.
2) Your pipes are not supported properly, such that when they turn on, they bang into one another or into other things. Although you said that you have already secured all of the pipes under the floor, you might want to just double check that they are supported properly.
3) A pipe to or from your baseboard radiators are running through a hole in a wall, etc. that is too tight, which doesn't allow sufficient expansion for the pipe's thermal expansion.
4) A zone valve is installed backwards.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/22/2008
Dear hahnsmith:
Let's see if we can help you out.
I'm hoping for you that it is something simple, so let's first check to see if it is either that your wash load is unbalanced, or that you have a faulty door switch.
So first, have you tried emptying out your washer, and then turning it on to see if it will run completely empty? If so, then the load was unbalanced and this was keeping it from running.
Next, can you locate the switch for the door (you should see a little pin on the inside of your door that pushes in a little tab as the door is closing. You can check to see if this is stuck or jammed. Unfortunately, to do a real check on this switch, you have to have an electric meter.
If neither of these are your problem, then could you please let me know: what model Kenmore washer that you have; specifically which lights come on; and exactly at what point in the cycle they turn on?
One other suggestion, is if you haven't already tried calling them, here is the toll-free phone number for Sears customer service for Kenmore appliances, and hopefully they maybe able to help you over the phone: 1-800-349-4358
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Concerned Tami on 11/24/2008
Hi my landlord switched my boiler from oil to gas, well ever since I started my heat my pipes and radiators are banging I did real a little about it. I dont know how to get the air out. BUT I S THIS DANGEROUS as I have 3 kids.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/24/2008
Dear "Concerned Tami":
From what you've described, I suspect that the banging that you are hearing from your pipes and radiators is due to air that is trapped in the system that needs to be bled out.
You can read about how to bleed your radiators on the "Radiators" page of our online Maintenance Library:
http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/radiators.asp
And also, if it would help you to see a video demonstration on how to bleed air out of a radiator, you can see short video here: http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1455704/how_to_bleed_a_radiator/
Assuming that it is just air trapped in your system, this is annoying and reduces the efficiency of your heating system, but it is not necessarily dangerous.
Home this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Jessica on 11/24/2008
I just moved into an older apartment building and we have hot water baseboard heating. I am very new to this.. We moved in, in April when we didn't have to worry about heat, but now that it is winter i need heat. I live in a triplex and i am on the 3rd level and i was told that i am to turn the valve on my baseboard heater to bleed it and when wter comes out to shut it and that should be all i need to do. Is this correct?? the water that came out was cold... do i close the valve completly closed... so confused can you explain it step by step cause even your lil diagram confusses me.. thanks
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/24/2008
Dear Jessica:
Here is a video that you can watch that shows you step-by-step how to bleed the air out of a radiator:
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1455704/how_to_bleed_a_radiator/
The video is for a hot water radiator, but the process will be similar for bleeding your baseboard radiators (since it sounds like yours is not a closed piping system, and you are on the top floor (where the air rises to in the pipes). Also, it says at the beginning of this video that you should turn off the boiler to get started, but since you are in an apartment building you will not be able to do this. Just BE CAREFUL that when the water starts coming out, that it can turn very hot.
And yes, if you have alot of air trapped in your pipes, then the water coming out could initially be cold. And if the valve that you are referring to is the air vent valve, then yes, you will want to close it completely have air has stopped coming out.
If you still have questions, don't hesitate to let us know, and we'll see if we can help you further.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from farmchef on 11/25/2008
I recently bought an older home with baseboard heat. The ones on the main floor have fins. The ones on the second floor don't. Is this a problem?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/25/2008
Dear farmchef:
Actually, it is not unusual to have a baseboard heating system that has fins on the baseboards on the first floor, but just has pipes without fins on the second or third floors.
The reason is that heat rises, which makes heating a second or third floor easier that heating a first floor (especially if the floor separating the upper floors is not insulated, which allows more heat to pass through). Since the upper floors do not have as much heat load, the reason for leaving off the fins is to keep too much heat from being put into the rooms on these floors. Otherwise these rooms would roast.
If you find that the rooms on these upper floors are not getting enough heat, then you will need to replace sections of the pipes with pipes that have fins.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from anonymous on 11/25/2008
proper installation of drain hose on washing machine
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/25/2008
Dear anonymous:
The drain hose (hooked pipe) for a washing machine is secured to the rear of the machine by support clips and may be routed to the right or left as needed. The drain hose should be placed into an open standpipe which has a minimum inside diameter 2 inches, or alternatively, it can be positioned over an open sink. The height of standpipe or sink should be between 24 and 40 inches off of the floor (so that it is higher than the height of the tub in your washer, but not so high that you washer has trouble pumping into the standpipe or sink). Care must be taken that the hose (or sink drain) is never obstructed, and that the hose is never twisted or that the end of it is not submerged in water. If the hose is connected to the standpipe with an airtight joint, then it will need a check valve or other mechanism to prevent it from siphoning water back into your washer.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from farmchef on 11/26/2008
Thanks for the prompt reply!
____________________ QUESTION from Todd on 11/27/2008
Hi there,
Thanks for the response. I applied 10 winds of tape as you suggested, and it stemmed the flow, but did not completely stop the leak.
My main concern really is finding out what would cause WATER to come from a STEAM radiator valve. The water only leaks out once the connection between radiator and shutoff valve is made. When the radiator is off and the valve opened, only steam comes out. Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/27/2008
Dear Todd:
Do you have a single pipe steam radiator system, or a dual-pipe steam radiator system?
In a single pipe radiator system, steam comes in through a single pipe and valve at the bottom of the radiator, and there is an air vent near the top of the radiator. As the steam warms up the radiator, water condenses out and flows back down the same pipe as what is bringing the steam in.
So if you have a single pipe system, this would explain why you have water coming out of the steam valve.
Does this help?
____________________ QUESTION from Chris on 11/28/2008
I have a circuit in my new house (constructed in 2007) that includes a gas fire place. I added a dimmer switch in the kitchen and needed to test a few breakers to find the right circuit and now the circuit with the gas fire place is out, even though all the breakers are in the right "on" position. The separate circuit that I installed the dimmer on works fine. I suspect that there may be a GFI breaker somewhere around the fire place. Any idea if I am on the right track? Do gas fire places come with a GFI and do I just need to find it, or is something else going on? If the GFI box is in/near the fire place where would it be? Could it be that one of my breakers has failed? Any suggestions?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/28/2008
Dear Chris:
Yes, some models of gas fireplaces do have a built-in GFI in them, but they are usually outdoor models. If you have the owner's manual for your fireplace, it should tell you whether or not it has one. Or you can maybe download an owner's manual for your particular unit from the manufacturer's website.
But when you say you needed to test a few breakers, what did you do to test them? Did you just turn the breakers off and then right back on?
Depending on what you did to the circuit that the gas fireplace is on, it is possible that it may have damaged the circuit breaker. Here is a webpage that describes how to test a circuit breaker:
http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Testing_Circuit_Breakers-Electrical_Boxes_and_Wiring-F2234.html
Please note that you should be VERY CAREFUL working around any of the electrical wiring in your home. And unless you are completely confident in what you are doing, we recommend bringing in a trained professional.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Lola on 11/28/2008
Hi Wizard, I hope you can help! Our forced air gas heater to comes on every 5 minutes which seems excessive to me, no?? Also, is it normal for the air that blows out to be barely warm, verging on cool? We had the ducts cleaned in fall of '07 and we have been replacing the filters every 2-3 months. The thermostat is always set to 24 degrees celcius but the house is still on the cool side. If I sit in front of the heating duct, I actually get chilly from the breeze it gives off! I know something is wrong! Help! Please!
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/28/2008
Dear Lola:
Yes, a forced air gas heater that comes on every 5 minutes is excessive. And yes, the air coming out of the registers should feel warm, not cool.
Here are some things that you can check for the two problems that you are having (which may, or may not, be related):
GAS HEATER NOT PRODUCING HEAT:
Check the pilot light to make sure it's lit. You may need to relight it.
Make sure the thermostat is set to "heat".
Check the emergency switch to make sure that it is on.
Check your fuse box to see if any circuit breakers are flipped the wrong way or to make sure a fuse hasn't blown. Reset the circuit breaker or change the fuse if need be.
Make sure the furnace is turned on. Look for the power button.
Reset the blower motor. The motor may have overheated, so wait a few minutes and try resetting it again if the motor does not start up.
Have a professional check to see if the blower is clogged, or if the burner is dirty.
Have a professional check to see that the gas pressure to the furnace is adequate.
GAS HEATER IS CYCLING TOO OFTEN:
Try replacing the filter, especially if it has been 3 months since the last time you replaced the filter
Watch to see if the room temperature is vacillating significantly. This also indicates a thermostat or heat anticipator problem.
Have a professional check to see if the motor and/or blower needs lubrication.
Have a professional check to see if it's a thermostat or furnace problem.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Scott on 11/29/2008
How does the pump in a closed hot water heating system(furnace)make the water flow?
Where does the air come from that is released by the automatic bleeder valves?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/30/2008
Dear Scott:
Regarding your first question, the way the circulation pump in your closed hot water baseboard heating system works is that when the thermostat in your home senses that the temperature is too low in the room for this zone of your heating system, it sends a signal to your furnace (boiler) to turn on, and also sends a signal to the circulation pump for this zone to turn on and start circulating the water heated by your furnace. This sends hot water to the baseboard radiators in the rooms that are part of the zone of your system that are controlled by the thermostat. When the thermostat then senses that the temperature in the room is high enough, it sends a signal to turn off the furnace and circulation pump for this zone. And similarly for other zones in your home.
Now if your question is specifically, how does this pump make the water flow through the pipes if the system is closed? The answer is that as the rotor inside of the pump spins around, it causes the pressure to become lower on the inlet side of the pump, and the pressure to become higher on the outlet side of the pump. This causes water to flow from the low side of the pump to the high side of the pump, which causes the water to circulate though the loop of your piping system. Further, as your furnace heats up the water in your closed heating system, the water expands, and needs somewhere to go, which is why your system will be designed to have an "expansion tank" to give this additional water a place to go.
Regarding you second question, air can come into your hot water system in several ways, such as:
1) air is dissolved in solution in the fresh water that comes into your system as make-up water to replace the water that is lost from leaks, and then when this fresh water goes through your furnace and is warmed up and then cools down, the air that is entrained in this water is released and comes out as bubbles.
2) if you have leaks in the seals of your water circulation pump, then when the pump turns on, it can suck air into your system.
3) if you have a leak in your expansion tank, it could possible be a source for air getting back into your system.
Here is a link to a webpage which gives a general description to how a baseboard hot water system works, that you might find interesting: http://acnow.wordpress.com/2008/05/12/baseboard-hot-water-heating-systems/
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from ralph chiavelli on 11/30/2008
my gas broiler leakswater from alargepipeat bottom ofthe broiler causingthe feedvavleto come on every 6minutes how can i find the leak/
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/30/2008
Dear Ralph:
If you are seeing water leaking from the pipe at the bottom of your gas boiler, then the first thing to do is to get this pipe connection tightened and sealed to see if this stops the leak. If it stops the leak, but you are still seeing your make-up water valve to come on too often, then you have a more difficult task of determining if the water leak is occurring inside of your boiler, or somewhere else in your system (inside of a wall for example).
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from frank on 11/30/2008
I considered the sensor defective in a touch lamp after a bulb blew and the lamp would no longer come on. I replaced the sensor module with one that has dimmer capability(each touch cycles light output and then turns off). It works great in my basement but the lamp will not come on in other rooms. Is the sensor module defective or do I have a wiring/ground problem that is responsible? Your help much appreciated. Thanks
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 11/30/2008
Dear Frank:
If your touch lamp where you have installed a new sensor with dimmer capability is working fine in one location of your house but not another, then here are some suggestions to try:
1) be sure that the outlet is not controlled by a wall dimmer.
2) if the outlet is controlled by a wall switch, be sure that the switch for it is in the "on" position.
3) replace the light bulb with a new one-way bulb.
4) try the lamp in other outlets of your basement, and then check to see if the amperage of the circuit for these outlets in your basement are higher than the other locations in your house where your lamp does not work.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Roy on 11/30/2008
1. Should I let my forced hot water heating system cool down before trying to purge the trapped air from the drainage spigots?
2. How do I manually manipulate the Watts self-feeding (auto-makeup) water valve to control pressure so it doesn't go above 25 PSI during the actual air purging process?
3. To purge air from a forced hot water system, you advised another homeowner to "close all of the shut-off valves" as one of the steps to follow just before opening the drain spigot to drain water from each heating loop. My heater has three shutoff valves: 1. the valve to shut all water off to the house, at the pump location 2. the shut-off valve just before the pressure regulating valve that is part of each heating loop 3. a shut off valve that supplies fresh water directly into the side of the boiler, labeled "cold water inlet". Do I shut all these shut-off valves off before I drain the water from each loop?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/1/2008
Dear Roy:
Regarding your first question, I would suggest letting your forced hot water heating system cool down before purging the air out of the system. There are two reasons for this: 1) as the water cools down dissolved air will be released from the water, which will then allow you to purge this air out as well; and 2) less risk of being scaled by hot water. However, if it is not practical for you to let your system cool completely down, then you can still purge the system, but just be careful of the hot water.
Regarding your second question, does your Watts auto-fill valve look like the one pictured here with the release lever on top:
http://www.blueridgecompany.com/radiant/hydronic/517/watts-fill-valve-and-backflow-preventer
If not, here is the contact information for Watts Valves: http://www.watts.com/pro/contactus.asp who can tell you specifically for your particular model of valve.
And regarding your third question, you mentioned that you are looking to drain your system, but do you mean actually draining the system, or just purging the air?
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Rich on 12/1/2008
the knob that turns on the radiator is stripped. What is the best way to fix or replace the knob?
____________________ QUESTION from Rich on 12/1/2008
My knob that turns the radiator on is stripped. What is the best way to fix this?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/1/2008
Dear Rich:
Here is a list of parts suppliers for radiant heating systems:
http://www.traditional-building.com/article/radside.htm
You might want to check with one near you to see if you can put some penetrating oil on your valve, and if they have something that will reverse thread to replace your stripped knob. If not, then they could have a replacement valve stem, etc. for you.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Michele on 12/3/2008
The air in our house stays very dry in the winter. I have hot water baseboard heat. Are there any attachments I can add to my baseboard to get some humidity into the air?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/3/2008
Dear Michele:
Yes, there are a variety of options for adding humidity to your home during the winter when you have a hot water baseboard heating system in your house.
They include fairly inexpensive devices that you fill with water and place over sections of your baseboard radiator, such as this model:
http://www.colonialmedical.com/product.php?productid=21046 , or
http://www.vermontcountrystore.com/browse/Home/For-The-Home/Home-Furnishings/Heating-Cooling/Baseboard-Humidifier/D/30102/P/1:100:1030:10320:101010/I/f05833&searchid=7JP1SRCH&feedid=hgtv
And more expensive options that get hooked up to a water supply and can serve much large areas:
http://www.aprilaire.com/themes/aa/en/manuals/400.pdf
in addition to cost, the differences are: 1) having to check and fill the water by hand, versus automatically feeding water as needed; and 2) the capacity for serving larger rooms and areas.
The above are not meant to be recommendations, but rather, just examples of the range of options.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Roy on 12/3/2008
Hi again, and thanks for the advice thus far. In answer to your first question, my Watts fill valve looks exactly like the one pictured, with the release lever on top, at:
http://www.blueridgecompany.com/radiant/hydronic/517/watts-fill-valve-and-backflow-preventer
I just don't know how to operate the valve to regulate the water
pressure when purging the air from each forced hot water loop.
To respond to your second question, I am interested in purging the air from the system through the drain spigots. I am trying to accomplish this by flushing all of the water plus air out of the spigot for each heating loop, then filling each loop with fresh, but not too cold water, that hopefully has no new air in it. As noted in my question 3, I appear to have three shutoff valves to consider at the boiler.
After the spigot draining and new water fill-up is done, I plan to bleed air from the air vent in the system to get out any additional air that may be released.
Your thoughts in reply to my last two questions would be most
appreciated. Any source of very detailed steps as to how this draining and refilling procedure can most safely and effectively be accomplished would be most appreciated.
Thank you.
Roy
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/3/2008
Dear Roy:
Regarding your first question, yes, it sounded like you had something like a Watts Fill Valve and Backflow preventer valve, and from what you've said, it turned out that the link I sent you was exactly the one you had. Great!
Then if you look at your valve, the small lever on the top of the valve operates the bypass for the pressure reducer for the valve. So as you lift up on the lever, it opens the valve to street pressure from your water supply. So as you start to purge the water from one of your heating system loops, you lift the lever to increase the pressure to get stronger flow as you are purging that line. But let the lever down if the pressure in your system starts to go too high (however, if you isolate you boiler properly, as described below, then you won't have to worry about over-pressuring your system).
Now regarding your second question, the exact procedure for specifically which valves to open and close as you are purging your baseboard heating system of air will depend on how your specific system has been piped. But in general, to be safe, you will want to:
1) turn off your boiler and heating system.
2) make a note of which valves are open, and which are closed.
3) close the valves that allow you to isolate your boiler from the rest of the system (so that you don't get a pressure spike that causes your boiler's pressure relief valve to lift, as this weakens it).
4) connect a drain hose to safely drain hot water from the system.
5) follow your pipes around starting with the Watts fill valve, and open only those valves necessary to allow the fresh water that is coming into the system from the Watts valve to flow through the particular loop that you are trying to purge (that is, one loop at a time), and then out the drain hose that you have connected.
6) close all of the valves, and then repeat opening the valves needed to purge each loop.
7) disconnect the drain hose and close this valve.
8) return all of your valves to their original position (especially the valves that you used to isolate your boiler).
If it helps you to think of it this way, if you have turned off your boiler and heating system, and then properly closed the valves to isolate your boiler, and properly placed your drain hose to a drain or outdoors, then you can fairly safely purge your system without hurting your boiler or scalding yourself.
And when you go to start you system back up, you of course just need to be sure to put the valves back to their original positions.
Also, here are some additional suggestions that you might find helpful:
First, if you haven't had your annual inspection done yet on your boiler, then when the service technician comes out to do your inspection and service, you can ask them to show you exactly how to purge your specific system, when they can be physically there to point out which of your valves does exactly what.
The other thought is that you can call the toll-free phone number for the company that manufactures your Watts valve. I've talked to them before, and they are very helpful regarding how to purge, backflush and drain baseboard heating systems where their valves are installed. And here is their toll-free phone number in Vashon, Washington: 866-361-4782.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Roy on 12/4/2008
Thank you so much for your very helpful and thorough advice!
I now feel comfortable that I will be able to safely purge the air from the forced hot water heating loops. Thank you also for the advice to get on-site advice during the annual inspection of the boiler. The contact to the Watts manufacturer is also a great lead.
You have been so much help to me! Your site is clearly the best, and I have been searching a long time through the Internet, and thus have a strong basis for a comparison!
Take care.
Roy
____________________ QUESTION from Tyler on 12/4/2008
We installed a whole house humidifier on a heat pump unit. Also purchased a hydrometer. How long does it take to humidify a house the hydrometer went up to 30% the first day but now it is staying at 20%. The unit has the adjustment built into the side of the duct. The unit is for homes upto 2500 sq ft and our home is 1700. Should I call the comapany back or be patient for a couple weeks?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/4/2008
Dear Tyler:
Yes, I would suggest that you contact the company and have them check your humidifier.
I assume that when you say that your humidifier has been installed on your heat pump unit, that is it actually connected into the air handler ductwork. And further, I assume that there is a water supply directly connected to humidifier, and since its directly connected, that you can't tell how much water is going into the humidifier each day.
Since we are going into the winter season, humidity levels will be naturally dropping. But your humidifier should be overcoming this and bringing the humidity in your home back up.
Since you have a "whole-house" model, that is, it humidifies your entire house by being connected into your home's central ductwork, it can only work if air is being circulated by the blower that operates with your heat pump. In other words, if your blower is not running, then your humidifier won't be able to increase the humidity in your home.
So if your blower has been running, and you are still not seeing the humidity in your house rising over a day or so, then yes, I would suggest that you contact the company that installed it, and have them check to see if the water is not turned on, or if the electronics are not set properly to turn on the humidifier when the blower is operating, etc.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Troy on 12/5/2008
What is the easiest and safest way to clean the dust from the heat louvers in baseboard heat?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/5/2008
Dear Troy:
I wasn't sure if your question is how to clean the actual louvers that open and close above your baseboard heating radiators, or if you mean the thin fin louvers that come off of the hot water pipes or the electric element.
So let me answer both for you here.
First, regarding the louvers that open and close along the top of your baseboard radiator. You will want to move furniture, drapes, etc. away from the area so that they do not get wet. If you have an electric baseboard heater, then before you start you will need to be sure to shut off the power to your heater. Either unplug the system from the wall if it is a self-contained unit or disconnect power at the home's main power supply cabinet. If you can remove the panels on your baseboard heating radiators, then carefully disassemble them so that you can access to both sides of the panels. Mix up a bucket of water and liquid soap, and use a soft cloth to wipe down both sides of the panels and louvers. Be careful if you are wiping near the fins, as these can have sharp edges and corners.
Regarding cleaning the fins on the hot water pipes or the electric element, you will want to use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment. Or if you only have a vacuum with a nozzle attachment, then you will want to use a separate brush to loosen the dust and debris on the fins as you are vacuuming. While you are cleaning these fins, you might want to have a needle-nosed pliers ready so that you can straighten out any bent fins, as these reduce the performance of your baseboard heater.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from robin edghill on 12/5/2008
I have a NVC36RN majestic fireplace. the pilot light is on but the logs don't light up when switched to on. I had a local service man come out and he said it was a bad gas valve. he said the that it would cost $800.00 to repair it. is this repair amount sound reseanable to you?
____________________ QUESTION from judy on 12/5/2008
our propane ventless fireplace insert pilot light goes out after a few minutes of burning. we have to continually keep lighting the pilot
____________________ QUESTION from judy on 12/5/2008
our propane ventless fireplace insert pilot light goes out after a few minutes of burning. we have to continually keep lighting the pilot
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/5/2008
Dear Robin:
Without having inspected and examined your gas fireplace and piping situation myself, and seeing what is involved in replacing your particular gas valve and other items that may have been included in this service person's quote, it is very difficult to comment on whether $800 is reasonable or not.
I would suggest that you contact at least one other local service person who is qualified to work on a Majestic brand gas fireplace, and have them come out and inspect your fireplace and to provide comparison quotes. They can also help confirm that it is actually the gas valve that is causing your problem.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/5/2008
Dear Judy:
It could be that you are low on propane, or that dust or debris has built up on your sensor (which can be carefully cleaned off with a vacuum cleaner or gentle brushing), or have a bad thermocouple, etc.
However, we would STRONGLY suggest that when it comes to a gas fireplace, that it is best to have a local trained service technician thoroughly inspect your fireplace and correct any problems.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from its cold man on 12/5/2008
force hot air furnance runs but no heat. system stays on for 10 minutes and then shuts off. filter ok.. new limit switch replaced. furnance still donot come on.
____________________ QUESTION from its cold man on 12/5/2008
fgorced hot air furnance not working. runs 10 minutes and shuts off. new filter, new limit switch. with new limit switch, the boliler doesnot come on at all
____________________ QUESTION from carroll on 12/6/2008
Is it possible to discuss the heating system and all it's difficulties with someone on the phone? It's a 5,000 sq ft house with a heating run thru the garage to the apt above it. Virutally no heat in the apt. Can I shut off the radiators in the apt? What is a good temp to maintain and still not go broke. Current payment plan is $343 but last year it ran over by 1500 and kept the house under 70. This is just one of the many questions I have and can find no one knowledgeable enough about hot water radiant heating systems. I currently am running the system at 63. Good or bad?
____________________ QUESTION from marge on 12/6/2008
my propane space heater makes aloud puff when it ignites..i think some of the holes in the burner are blocked. its a warm morning brand and i dont think i can get parts anymore. is this dangerous ?
____________________ QUESTION from marge on 12/6/2008
my propane space heater makes a loud poof when it ignites. im thinking that the burners are plugged up .is this dangerous and am i using more fuel when its operating in this manner? i have a warm morning heater thats many years old do you think an up grade would use less fuel? thanks guys
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/6/2008
Dear "its cold man":
Have you tried cleaning or replacing your flame sensor or your thermostat?
What type of furnace do you have? Is it gas-fired or oil-fired?
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/6/2008
Dear Carroll:
I think it would be best if you talked to someone who could physically see your heating system, how it is piped and the apartment that you are referring to. For example, someone seeing your situation might be able to determine if there is enough heat from other adjacent areas to keep the apartment above the garage freezing if the heat to it was turned off. On the other hand, being above a garage and if not connected to heated rooms, if you have water pipes in the apartment these could freeze and burst (and the risk of this will depend on what region of the country that you live in). And if you are not going to use the apartment, then it might be practical to drain the water from the plumbing (and from the radiators).
You might want to consider talking with a local home inspector, as they are typically quite knowledgeable about radiant heating systems, and how to protect your home (or detached apartment) if you are doing something like turning down the temperature to save energy. Depending on what they see when they look at you situation, they may even recommend that you shut down the heating zone to your apartment, and use a small electric space heater instead. But again, it will depend on what they see in your overall situation, and are familiar with the temperature patterns of the region of the country where you live.
Here are some links to webpages that provide names of registered home inspectors in your area:
http://www.inspectorseek.com/
http://www.ashi.org/find/
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/6/2008
Dear Marge:
The loud poof when your propane space heater ignites may be due to what is called "delayed ignition". Delayed ignition can cause a sound from a small pop all the way to an explosion. It can be caused by dirty burner ports which partially block gas flow and prevents the main burner from being quickly ignited by the pilot.
I would STRONGLY suggest that you have a trained service technician inspect, clean and adjust your propane space heater, to ensure that it is operating safely.
Now with respect to your other question, if your space heater is quite old, then yes, it is possible that a new unit could be significantly more energy efficient, and safer, than your current model.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Jeff on 12/7/2008
I have a 3 zone heating system in my home.1 zone in my family room,2nd in my kitchen/dinning/living room and a 3rd that heats the upstair bed rooms.My house is 30 yrs old and im sure that it hasn't been bleed.The 1st and 2nd zones seem fine you get your normal crinkin/crackin noises when it stars up then goes away but on the 3rd zone you can actually hear the water flow threw the baseboards sounds like a little river running.Does this mean it has air in the system?If soo can you explain how to bleed it?I know it overdue for this.Thankyou very much in advance..Jeff
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/7/2008
Dear Jeff:
Yes, it does sound like the piping of your third heating zone on your baseboard heating system has air trapped in it, and that it needs to have the air purged out of this line.
Regarding the procedure for purging air from a baseboard heating zone, it will depend on your specific configuration of valves, etc. But in general, here is the procedure for purging air from a baseboard heating system.
First, I would suggest heating system cool down before purging the air out of the system. There are two reasons for this: 1) as the water cools down, dissolved air in it will be released from the water, which will then allow you to purge this air out as well; and 2) less risk of being scaled by hot water. However, if it is not practical for you to let your system cool completely down, then you can still purge the system, but just be careful of the hot water.
Second, you should locate your hot water heating system's back-flow preventer valve. This is the valve that comes off of your main household supply line, and it prevents water from your heating system from flowing backward into your household supply. It typically looks something like the one pictured here with a release lever on top:
http://www.blueridgecompany.com/radiant/hydronic/517/watts-fill-valve-and-backflow-preventer
Then as I mentioned above, the exact procedure for specifically which valves to open and close as you are purging your baseboard heating system of air will depend on how your specific system has been piped. But in general, you will then want to:
1) turn off your boiler and heating system.
2) make a note of which valves are open, and which are closed.
3) close the valves that allow you to isolate your boiler from the rest of the system (so that you don't get a pressure spike that causes your boiler's pressure relief valve to lift, as this weakens it).
4) connect a drain hose to safely drain hot water from your system to a floor drain, or to outside. Be CAREFUL, as the water coming out can be scalding HOT.
5) follow your pipes around starting with your backflow-preventer valve, and open only those valves necessary to allow the fresh water that is coming into the system from the backflow-preventer valve to flow through the particular loop that you are trying to purge (that is, one loop at a time), and then flow out the drain hose that you have connected. Then if you look at your back-flow preventer valve, the small lever on the top of the valve operates the bypass for the pressure reducer for the valve. So as you lift up on the lever, it opens the valve to street pressure from your water supply. So as you start to purge the water from one of your heating system loops, you can lift the lever to increase the pressure to get stronger flow to the line that you are trying to purge. But let the lever down if the pressure in your system starts to go too high (however, if you isolate you boiler properly, as described below, then you won't have to worry about over-pressuring your system).
6) close all of the valves, and then repeat opening the valves needed to purge each loop.
7) disconnect the drain hose and close this valve.
8) return all of your valves to their original position (especially the valves that you used to isolate your boiler).
If you have turned off your boiler and heating system, and then properly closed the valves to isolate your boiler, and properly placed your drain hose to a drain or outdoors, then you can fairly safely purge your system without hurting your boiler or scalding yourself.
And when you go to start you system back up, you of course just need to be sure to put the valves back to their original positions.
Since you have isolated your boiler from the purging process, this procedure will not purge air from this segment of your system. But this is a relatively small area compared to your entire system, and the benefit to isolating it, is that you don't need to worry about over-pressuring your boiler while you are doing the air purging.
Also, here are is an additional suggestion that you might find helpful. If you haven't had your annual inspection done yet on your boiler, then when the service technician comes out to do your inspection and service, you can ask them to show you exactly how to purge your specific system, when they can be physically there to point out which of your valves does exactly what.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from tom on 12/7/2008
we just put in a brand new house and have an ouside pellet boiler and it does not seem to be heating the way it should on cold days the temp does not get above 67 degrees we have been moving pipes around trying to get air out nothing. the pipe entering the baseboard is hot along with leaving the baseboard any thoughts?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/7/2008
Dear Tom:
It sounds like you have a baseboard hot water heating system that is heated by a pellet boiler, and you are not able to get the temperature in you home up high enough.
You said that you have been moving pipes around, but have you tried purging the air out of each zone of your baseboard heating system? For the procedure on how to do this, please see the answer I gave to an Ask-the-Wizard question on this earlier today.
Other potential causes can include:
1) bad (or improperly adjusted) thermostat.
2) bad circulation pump.
3) valves not open all the way (which reduce circulation rates).
However, if I understand you properly, when you say that the pipe is hot LEAVING the baseboard, if you mean that the water being returned to your boiler (after going through your baseboard radiators) is still hot, and that this is a NEW house, then I'm wondering if possibly the amount of baseboard areas in your home are not sufficient for the area of rooms that you are trying to heat? In other words, that there should be more linear feet of baseboard radiators, or that they are augmented by an electric blower (which is sometimes down in kitchens or bathrooms where there is not enough wall space for enough feet of baseboard radiators).
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Dwight Gregory on 12/9/2008
If power is lost, due to storm,where can I connect temporary 110 volts to my hot water oil fired furnance so pipes won't freeze? Any information would be appreciated.
____________________ QUESTION from Dwight Gregory on 12/9/2008
No power to house,due to storm.How to connect 110 ac to hot water oil fired furnance temporary so pipes won't freeze. Thanks.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/9/2008
Dear Dwight:
If power is going to be out just temporarily, then there are a couple of things you can do to keep the water pipes in your house from freezing:
Regarding your oil-fired furnace and its hot water heating pipes, you have a couple of options:
1) If you are concerned that the power could be off for quite a while, you could turn off your furnace and drain all of the water out of your heating system (but of course, then you will need to refill it and purge out the air to start it back up).
2) A variation of this is to open the drains on each of your zones just enough to keep a slow steady drip flowing. This way you will have water movement, which can help prevent the pipes from freezing. And if the power comes on soon, then you won't have to refill your entire system, just what has drained out from the slow drips. However, you will need to be familiar enough with the piping of your heating system to be sure that you have the right valves open to allow water to circulate through all of your heating loops, including through your furnace.
3) However, with the power off, I would NOT recommend trying to wire up your furnace and water circulation pump to a temporary power supply, unless you are absolutely sure what you are doing.
4) But if your circulation pump for your heating system is the type that is plugged into a standard electrical outlet, then you might want to consider plugging this pump into your temporary generator (and I assume that you know that you should NEVER run a fuel-burning generator indoors). However as mentioned above, you will need to be familiar enough with the piping of your heating system to be sure that you have the right valves open to allow water to circulate through all of your heating loops, including through your furnace. Keeping the water circulating in your heating system can help prevent it from freezing.
Now regarding your household water supply (to sinks, washing machine, toilets, etc.) there are a couple of things you can do:
1) turn on faucets to drip slightly, as the movement will help keep the pipes from freezing. Remember to drip hot water faucets as well, so this will keep water moving through your water heater tank.
2) you need to drain the water out of all of your toilets, sump pumps, etc. Wherever you have standing water.
3) open cabinets under sinks, etc. where the backs of the cabinets are against outside walls. This allows warmer air from inside the house to circulate around where the sink pipes are.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Robert on 12/9/2008
Two of my outside faucets still have a small flow of water when I shut off the inside valve. It is already freezing, so I need to know if it is better to keep it turned off and let the water flow, or connect a hose to let the water flow away from the foundation of the house
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/9/2008
Dear Robert:
I would definitely NOT recommend shutting off the outside water faucet (spigot) during the winter, as this could result in the valve freezing and bursting.
Allowing it to drip could still result in it freezing up if the weather gets cold enough (picture a frozen icicle forming from the ground to the spigot), and this is even more true if its running through a length of hose exposed to the outside cold over its entire length.
What you can try in the short-term is to shut off the outside valve, but insulate the faucet very, very well on the outside of your house, and then place a fan facing the immediate inside of the wall to circulate warm air around this area.
But rather than doing this, it would be much better if you could fix the inside valve from leaking, and then drain the outside spigot for the winter. If you haven't already, try tightening the valve packing to see if you can stop it from leaking. To do this, put a pipe wrench on the body of the valve to keep it from moving, then use an adjustable or open-end wrench to tighten the nut on the valve stem. If this doesn't work, then you should replace the valve. Here's a webpage that can help you to replace a water valve:
http://www.homefurnish.com/homeimprovement/plumbing/doityourselfrepairingaleakingwatervalve.aspx
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Craig Mosqueda on 12/9/2008
I have a gas fired baseboard heat system. We have lived in the house for almost two years and lately the baseboards have been shuttering when the pump shuts off. It scares us to death in the middle of the night and I have tried to bleed the baseboards but water comes out almost immediately. Do you have any other sugggestions.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/9/2008
Dear Craig:
Since the noise that you hear in your pipes is when your baseboard heating system turns off, then I suspect that the expansion tank on your system has gotten filled with water, and there is no longer any air in the tank to provide a "cushion". As such, when the circulation pump turns off and the valves slam shut, you could be getting a "water hammer" effect which gives you the shuttering sound.
If this is the problem, then you can fix this by draining the water out of your expansion tank, and allowing it to fill with air.
To do this, shut off your furnace/boiler. Shut the valve that connects your expansion tank to your system, and then open the drain valve to drain the tank into a bucket (or with a hose to a floor drain or outside). BE CAREFUL, as this water can be scalding hot. Then close the drain valve, open the valve you closed to isolate the tank, and then turn your furnace/boiler back on.
Hopefully this will eliminate the banging noise that you have been hearing when the system shuts off. If not, just let us know, and we'll try to diagnose the problem further for you.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Kristin Barker on 12/10/2008
I live in a building with baseboard heat and the loud banging stays on constantly until I turn the temperature dial a smidge to the left or right. The banging will stop for about an hour, and then start up again until I move the dial. What is the cause of this, and how can I stop it? I will take your recommendations to the condo board for help because the noise is so great that I cannot sleep.
____________________ QUESTION from Jack on 12/10/2008
How do you light the pilot light in the Heat & Glow gas fireplace Model #6000 TRX?
____________________ QUESTION from Jack on 12/10/2008
I have a Heat & Glow 6000 TRX gas fireplace and the pilot light went out over the summer. How do I light the pilot light?
____________________ QUESTION from Kathy Alloway on 12/10/2008
2 of my outside electrical outlets stopped working after yesterday's rain. I tripped all the GFCI buttons I can find but the outlets won't start working again. What else can I try?
____________________ QUESTION from Kathy Alloway on 12/10/2008
2 of my outside electrical outlets stopped working after yesterday's rain. I tripped all the GFCI buttons I can find but the outlets won't start working again. What else can I try?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/10/2008
Dear Kristin:
When you say you that the banging noise from your baseboard heating system stops when you move your thermostat a little to the left or right, is you heat on, and then you are turning your thermostat to turn it off? Or is your system off, and you are turning your thermostat to turn it on? Or does it really not matter whether you are turning the thermostat up or down that it gets the banging noise to stop? And if you heat is off and you move the thermostat down a little, does it still stop the banging? And similarly, if your heat is on, and you move your thermostat up a little, does it still stop the banging?
In general, the causes of banging noises from a baseboard heating system can be caused by:
1) Air is trapped in the line, which needs to be bled out.
2) A pipe to or from this baseboard radiator that is running through a hole in a wall, etc. that is too tight, which doesn't allow sufficiently for the pipe's thermal expansion.
3) Pipes not supported properly, such that when they turn on, they bang into one another or into other things.
4) The zone valve is installed backwards.
If you can let me know about the questions I raised above, it could help me to give you a more specific recommendations.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/10/2008
Dear Jack:
Here is a link to an owner's manual for Heat & Glow gas fireplaces that describes how to light your pilot:
http://www.heatnglo.com/customerCare/ownerManuals/gasManual.pdf
Please note that as you read the manual, that the specific lighting procedure will depend on the type of ignition system that you gas fireplace has. If you need it, here is a link to Heat & Glow's website where you request specific product information: http://www.heatnglo.com/contactUs/questions.asp
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/10/2008
Dear Kathy:
It sounds like you did the right thing by checking all of your GFI outlets to see if any of them have tripped and need to be reset. Your outside outlets could be protected by a GFI anywhere in your house. So did you check your garage, basement, bath, and kitchens for any GFI outlets that could have tripped?
The other place to check is for a GFI at your main panel.
Another possibility is that the rain water could have corroded the connections into the outlets. You will want to be VERY careful checking this yourself, as the outlets could be live. And you may want to leave this to a trained professional.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Kristin on 12/12/2008
Hi! Thanks for your quick response.
We have dials on our baseboard units (the dial is round and has numbers on it from 0-5, with 5 being the most heat, and zero being off), so while they're not technically thermostats, they do regulate the heat. During the winter my dials are usually around the number 4, give or take (never off). No matter where the dial number is set when the banging starts I can move the dial a very small smidgen up or down, doesn't matter, and it will stop the banging for a little while. Later, when the banging starts up again I can move the dial another smidgen and the banging will stop again. This is maddening because this goes on all day long, and of course all night too. I know how to bleed the units, and have done so, but the banging persists to the point that it sounds like a mountain gorilla in a cage rattling the bars. My personal units are not too bad, but my downstairs neighbor's units are horrendously loud. I have access to her unit when she is away and I have been down there to bleed the baseboards and turn the dial, but the banging is driving me crazy.
When you say that the zone valve could be installed backward, is that a valve on the baseboards themselves, or on the boiler? Thanks again for your help, anything is better than what we're hearing from our property manager, which is that "this stuff happens with baseboards."
Kristin
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/12/2008
Dear Kristin:
Thanks for the clarification. It sounds like the "temperature dial" that you were referring to is not a thermostat, but rather is a flow control valve for changing the flow of hot water through the baseboards.
It of course is difficult to accurately diagnose your problem without being able to physically listen to and examine your system. But with that said, here are my thoughts.
When you move the flow control dial on your baseboard unit it is changing the flow rate of hot water though the pipes in your system that deliver water to your baseboard radiators. What's interesting is that it sounds like changing this flow rate slightly, regardless of whether it goes up or down, is able to cause the banging noise to go away for a while. This makes me wonder if the problem could be related to either a pipe running through a tight spot in a wall, or pipes that are not properly supported. Either of these could be affected by changes in the flow rate, and this flow rate would be changing whenever you moved your dial on your baseboard. In other words, changing the flow rate would change the temperature of the pipes which would shrink or contact a pipe going through a tight spot in the wall. And changing the flow rate could impact pipes that were banging into each other that had been started by another unit in your building first changing their baseboard dials.
And regarding your questions about the location of the zone valve, the zone valve that I was referring to is at the boiler. But given your description, I would not think it would be the source of your problem.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Mike on 12/12/2008
My gas fireplace pilot light stays on but the switch when on doesn't ignite the main fire,what happened?
____________________ QUESTION from Michelle on 12/12/2008
Ok I am so frustrated, i have a finished basement with acoustic ceiling tile, over the summer we had several trees cut down and never had thisproblem previous to doing this. Now whenever we get torrential rain, we get water drips within 3 feet of the exterior wall that runs along the subfloor then drips down the joist. We cannot find the sourse, the exterior of the home is brick, there is a window on the main floor in the vicinity of the area but I sealed it up really well over the summer, I'm lost. I also had gutter guards installed by a roofer who said my roof is in good shape, there is a gable vent on either end of the house but that is the only opening. Any ideas, I'm afraid it's going to suin my floors.
____________________ QUESTION from Judy on 12/12/2008
I just recently moved into this home that I bought from a bank. It has electric baseboard heaters in every room. The one in the kitchen was working great, but now nothing, it's like it is not even coming on. I will have to take the face cover off to see what the make is on it. It's about 5' with a turn knob with numbers.
____________________ QUESTION from Judy on 12/12/2008
When I flush my toilet the kitchen sink gurgles, what could be the cause for this?
____________________ QUESTION from Harish on 12/12/2008
Hello There,
I have a gas fire place and we lost the power today and gas fire place still worked ok when I flipped the electrical switch.
I am just curious to findout how this works. How does the valve open when there is no electricity and what does turning on electrical switch is actually doing?
Thank you,
-harish
____________________ QUESTION from Harish on 12/12/2008
Hello There,
I have a and we lost the power today and gas fire place still worked ok when I flipped the electrical switch.
I am just curious to findout how this works. How does the valve open when there is no electricity and what does turning on electrical switch is actually doing?
Thank you,
-harish
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/12/2008
Dear Mike:
The possible reasons why your pilot could be working but your main fire will not ignite, are:
1) If your fireplace has a thermostat, the thermostat could be defective, or set at a temperature that is lower than the current temperature in the room.
2) Your fireplace door could have a switch that must be in the closed position to operate, and if the door isn't fitting snugly, or if the switch is faulty, then this could be keeping the gas turned off to your logs.
3) There could be a loose wire somewhere in your system.
4) The pilot light sensor may not be reading the pilot light properly.
5) You could have a high limit on your vent pipe, which is there for safety reasons, and there could be a problem with it.
With the exception of possibly the door, the other items are fairly complicated to diagnose and correct, and we would suggest that you have a trained professional inspect your unit.
And if you smell gas at all, we suggest that you IMMEDIATELY turn off your fireplace, and open a window to air out your room. And you should contact a trained professional.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/12/2008
Dear Michelle:
I'm sorry, but I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "we get water drips within 3 feet of the exterior wall" whenever you get torrential rain. If you could tell me a bit more of what you mean by this, it would be helpful.
With that said, let me give you a couple of thoughts about what could be getting the water leaking into your house during heavy rains:
1) You said that you had several trees cut down over the summer. It may be possible that if they drove heavy trucks into your yard that they may have crushed a perimeter drain pipe that is there to carry water away from your home's foundation, especially if this drain pipe was fairly shallow in the ground.
2) If you had the stumps pulled out in addition to cutting the trees, and they re-graded your lawn in a way that would cause the ground near your house to pitch towards the house instead of away from your house, then this could be causing water to be coming into your house.
3) You mentioned that you had gutter guards installed, did they check to be sure that your gutter downspouts and splash pans are oriented to carry water away from your house?
But again, if you could explain a little more about what you mean by the water drips within 3 feet of the exterior wall, I may be able to give you some additional suggestions.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Michelle on 12/12/2008
What I mean is approximately 2-4 feet in from the exterior wall we see drops of water, when we move the acoustic ceiling tile we can see the drips running down the joist and follow it across the subfloor to the exterior wall. It does not always drip from the same joist. To date it has been 2 different joists. 1 is the 1st joist from the exterior wall the last night the 2nd from the wall, There were no heavy trucks, no pipes were crushed and we have drainage pipes that carry everything away from the house.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/12/2008
Dear Michelle:
Ah, I see, you mean 2-4 feet INSIDE from the exterior wall. This is where the water drips down and hits the acoustic ceiling tiles, but the water appears to start coming in at the exterior wall, right?
I assume that in addition to inspecting around the window casing on the exterior wall above this area, that you have also thoroughly inspected the entire wall to see if there are any cracks or pathways where water could be getting through your brick?
If rainwater is not getting through the wall (and not one of the drainage issues), then another possible cause of your problem could be wind-driven leaking of your roof. Even if your roof is in good shape (as your gutter service person told you that you did), the high winds which you could be seeing during the torrential rains that you mentioned could be driving rainwater up and under your roofing materials, which then drips down the inside of your exterior wall in between the studs.
If this is your problem, then there a couple things that you can do for this:
1) Put roofing cement under shingles on the edges of roofs that face the wind.
2) If you have metal valleys on your roof, you may want to hem the edges. This means that the hidden edges of the valley actual have a 180 degree bend. This creates a channel that directs wind blown rain back to the bottom of the valley.
3) Rather expensive, but you may need to have tar paper and "ice & water shield" installed under the singles in this area to create a barrier to rainwater getting into your house.
Does this seem like what your problem could be?
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from rocco on 12/12/2008
My Maytag washer starts to fill with water and never stops. It does not start the wash cycle and will continoue to fill up with water and flood the garage unless I stop it. I can move the dial forward to the spin and it will drain it and spin the clothes dry, but the wash cycle never starts.
____________________ QUESTION from mjones61380 on 12/12/2008
My husband and I like to fix things ourselves. We bought a new circulator for our fuel fired baseboard furnace. We know that we need to drain our system and shut off the water source but are unsure how to do this. We also will have to put water back in and get rid of air. Can you walk us through this or send us in the right direction? A how to guide? Electric portable heaters are fine for a little while but it sure is cold at our house! Thanks, M&M Jones
____________________ QUESTION from Michelle on 12/12/2008
Exactly - thank you, so if he uses roofing tar along the edge of that entire side of the house to secure the shingles that could solve it then, makes sooo much sense - thank you
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/13/2008
Michelle:
Glad we could help you.
I imagine that the trees that you said you cut down were on the same side of the house as the wall where you were seeing the water leaking in?
If so, I suspect that these trees had been acting to block the heavy winds and rain. And now with the trees gone, when you have hard blowing rainstorms, the rain can be getting under the shingles, etc. unless you seal them down, hem the edges of metal valleys, etc.
Thanks again for your feedback.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Kathy on 12/13/2008
Thank you for your help.
I'll look harder this weekend for a hidden GFI.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/13/2008
Dear mjones61380:
Regarding a procedure draining, re-filling and purging air from your baseboard heating system, it will depend on your specific configuration of valves, etc. But in general, here is the procedure a baseboard heating system:
TO DRAIN YOUR SYSTEM:
1) locate the main supply valve and back-flow preventer valve for your hot water baseboard system. Your back-flow preventer valve prevents water from your heating system from flowing backward into your household supply, and it typically looks something like the one pictured here with a release lever on top:
http://www.blueridgecompany.com/radiant/hydronic/517/watts-fill-valve-and-backflow-preventer
2) turn off your boiler and heating system, and turn all of your thermostats down to their lowest settings. It sounded like your system is currently turned off, but just so you know, I normally suggest letting the heating system cool down before purging the air out of the system. There are two reasons for this: 1) as the water cools down, dissolved air in it will be released from the water, which will then allow you to purge this air out as well; and 2) less risk of being scaled by hot water. However, if it is not practical for you to let your system cool completely down, then you can still drain, re-fill and purge the system, but just be careful of the hot water. But again, this doesn't sound like it applies to you, if you system has been turned off for a while.
3) make a note of which valves are open, and which are closed.
4) if your piping allows it, close the valves that allow you to isolate your boiler from the rest of the system (so that you don't get a pressure spike that causes your boiler's pressure relief valve to lift, as this weakens it).
5) connect a drain hose to safely drain hot water from your system to a floor drain, or to outside. Be CAREFUL, as the water coming out can be scalding HOT.
6) close the main supply valve to your hot water system.
7) one-by-one, open the valves for each zone of your system that allows the zone to flow out of the main drain valve for your system. After each zone has been drained, close its drain valve.
TO RE-FILL YOUR SYSTEM AND PURGE OUT AIR:
1) follow your pipes around starting with your backflow-preventer valve, and then for each zone one-by-one open only those valves necessary to allow the fresh water that is coming into the system from the backflow-preventer valve to flow through the particular loop that you are trying to re-fill and purge (that is, one loop at a time), and then to flow out the drain hose that you have connected. If you look at your back-flow preventer valve, the small lever on the top of the valve operates the bypass for the pressure reducer for the valve. So as you lift up on the lever, it opens the valve to street pressure from your water supply. So as you start to re-fill and purge the air from one of your heating system loops, you can lift the lever to increase the pressure to get stronger flow to the line that you are trying to purge. But let the lever down if the pressure in your system starts to go too high (however, if you isolate you boiler properly, as described below, then you won't have to worry about over-pressuring your system). Close the drain valve for each zone's loop as your finish re-filling and purging the air out of it.
2) close the main drain valve and disconnect the drain hose.
3) return all of your valves to their original operating position (especially the valves that you used to isolate your boiler).
5) check to see that you have re-opened your heating system's main supply valve.
6) turn your boiler and heating system back on.
7) check the pressure gauge on your system, and inspect for any leaks around valves that you have opened or closed.
8) put your thermostats back to their desired settings.
Since you have isolated your boiler from the re-filling and purging process, this procedure will not purge air from this segment of your system. But this is a relatively small area compared to your entire system, and the benefit to isolating it, is that you don't need to worry about over-pressuring your boiler while you are doing the air purging.
Also, here are is an additional suggestion that you might find helpful. If you haven't had your annual inspection done yet on your boiler, then when the service technician comes out to do your inspection and service, you can ask them to show you exactly how to drain, re-fill and purge your specific system, when they can be physically there to point out what each of your valves does exactly what, for your particular system.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/13/2008
Dear Harish:
Yes, this is one of the really nice things about most gas fireplaces, that they can still work even though the power to your house is out. However, if you have a blower on your gas fireplace, unfortunately, the blower will not operate during a power outage.
To answer your question, if your gas fireplace has a standing pilot light, then it doesn't need to use household electricity for the flame. These type of gas fireplaces use what's called "millivolt" systems. A millivolt system has a device that produces enough electricity from the heat of the pilot light that it can operate millivolt switches for turning the fireplace on and off.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/13/2008
Dear Judy:
If your electric baseboard heater has suddenly stopped working, here are a couple of things that you can check:
1) Of course, try turning the thermostat all the way up, and seeing if this gets the heater to turn on.
2) Check your circuit breaker for the heater to see if it has tripped. Since you said you had just moved into your house, it may be a matter of becoming familiar with where the circuit breakers are, and which one is specifically for your kitchen electric baseboard heater.
3) If neither of these work for you, one other thing you can try if you are handy, is to take one of the thermostats from the other rooms that you know work, and then swap it with the one in the kitchen to see if this gets the kitchen heater to work. That is, to find out if your kitchen's thermostat is bad.
If none of these work for you, then you will want to call a certified technician to inspect the unit.
Please remember that many electric baseboard heaters run on 220 volts, so you will want to be VERY CAREFUL when working around any of the wires around your heater.
Also, you might want to check on the cost of a replacement heater. You may find that it is more economical to just replace the unit rather than paying to have a service technician spend a lot of time trying to troubleshoot and repair your existing heater.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/13/2008
Dear Judy:
Gurgling from a drain is almost always an indication of a plumbing vent problem. Plumbing vents are a network of pipes in your house that run from your drains up to your roof, and they allow air to flow into your pipes so that your drains work better.
You can have two types of venting problems:
1) Your vent is plugged.
2) Your vent was never hooked up properly.
If your vent is plugged or it was never hook up right, then you will get the gurgling depending on what is being used and how much water is being used. This happens for a very simple reason. As the water from the toilet drains down the pipe, it is pushing ahead of it the air that was in the pipe just before you tripped the toilet handle. This creates a vacuum just behind the water. Because the system is unvented, it searches for the easiest place to replace this air. The vacuum can actually be strong enough to suction the water from a fixture trap. It is extremely important for the water to remain in the traps below the fixtures. This water seal stops offensive odors and vermin from entering your house.
Look at your roof to see if there is a vent pipe sticking up. Does it look like it has any obstructions, such as a birds nest, or snow or ice? If you can't tell, then you may need to call a professional to inspect.
Blocked or inadequate vents can produce slow drains as well as noise. If none of the drains in your house are slow, but you are hearing gurgling at a nearby sink when the toilet is flushed, then take a look underneath the sink. If the trap is shaped like an "S" over on its side, the sink is probably not vented and the flushing toilet is trying to draw air into the drain line from the nearby sink when the toilet is flushed. If the trap is shaped like a "P" over on its side, with its horizontal outlet running into the wall, then with this design it likely is vented, but not always. If the trap is some other combination of multiple bends, then you probably want to call a professional plumber to unsnarl the installation since such plumbing traps don't typically work very well.
If you find that it is not that your vent is plugged, but rather, that your house does not have plumbing vent pipes, then you will want to talk with a plumber to see how easy or hard it will be do add a venting system to your particular house.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/13/2008
Dear Rocco:
If your washer is overfilling, there are two things to check:
1) faulty water-inlet valve
2) faulty water-level switch
FAULTY WATER-INLET VALVE:
A bad water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when your washer cycle tells it to close. If this occurs, the valve may leak and allow water to keep coming into the tub. If this is the case, then the valve needs to be replaced.
FAULTY WATER-LEVEL SWITCH:
Your washing machine has a water-level switch in it that senses the water level in the clothes tub. A bad or obstructed water-level switch can prevent it from signaling when to turn the water off, so the machine overflows. If you can't find any obstruction in the tube that runs from the tub to the switch, then it could be that you need to replace the water-level switch.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from crystal on 12/15/2008
My 12 yr old gas-fired boiler cycles on and off every 2-3 minutes - I dont think this is a good thing for the life of my boiler. So far the service co has replaced the pump, the expansion tank, the relief valve and installed an aquastat. I have tried different settings for the aquastat and there doesn't seem to be much difference. The boiler fires at about 20 psi and 140 degrees, and shuts off around 150 degrees even though the aquastat is currently set at about 170. I've spent alot of money and am getting frustrated. Aside from the wear and tear on the boiler, my office is in the basement and the constnt firing is driving me nuts.
Thanks in advance for ay light you can she don this.
____________________ QUESTION from Crystal on 12/16/2008
Hi,
Thanks for the fast response!
In response to your first two questions - i dont know! There is only one external setting - and right now I have it set at 170 which seems to have helped slightly. The service tech had set it at 150. I think there must be an internal boiler setting at 140 since the boiler seems to kick in when the temp falls below 140. For example, I observed the following when I turned up the thermostat and the aquastat was set at 150:
at 10:38 the psi was 21 lbs and the water at 142
at 10:40 the boiler fired when the water temp was just at or slightly below 140 and 20 lbs
at 10:41 when the temp reached 150, the boiler shut off
at 10:44 when the temp fell back to 140 the boiler ignited
I then set the aquastat to 155 and the boiler behaved essentially as above
With the aquastat at 170, the following occurred when I turned up the thermostat:
at 11:57 the boiler fired - psi was 18 and the temp was 121
at 12:03 the boiler shut off, 20lbs, 130
at 12:07, boiler on, 18 lbs, 130
at 12:15, the boiler shut off, 20 lbs, 140
at 12:22, the boiler ignited, 20lbs, 140
at 12:30, boiler off, 20 lbs, 150
The service tech checked the thermostat. It is not near a heating source - I have rads. I was also bleeding the rads frequently before the expansion tank was replaced. It apparently was waterlogged.
Thanks so much for you help!
Crystal
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/16/2008
Dear Crystal:
It sure sounds like we have narrowed it down to a problem with your aquastat on your boiler.
There could be two things that could be wrong with your aquastat:
1) the aquastat itself could be bad and need to be replaced, and
2) the aquastat's thermocouple (that reads the water temperature) could either be bad, or it could have gotten dislodged or is improperly seated.
A service technician should be able to check the thermocouple and test the aquastat.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from fogertyt on 12/16/2008
Heads up - on turning water heaters down:
It is NOT always a good idea. Waterheater manufacturers seem to focus more on the cost saving advantages of lower water heater temperatures without regard to this important consideration.
http://www.osha.gov/dts/osta/otm/legionnaires/hotwater.html
http://www.cdc.gov/legionella/patient_facts.htm
http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000616.htm
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/16/2008
Dear "fogertyt":
Very good point ! Like most things, one can go too far. And you are correct, if a homeowner dials their water heater temperature too far down, not only does it potentially increase the risk of Legionnaires Disease, but it also results in the loss of the energy efficiency that was sought to be gained. Plus it can be disappointing when water is no longer hot enough for showers, laundry, etc. We'll add your comment to the website to help clarify this.
Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts. And please let us know if you ever have any additional feedback, suggestions, or ideas.
Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Michael Kane on 12/17/2008
Dear Wizard,
How can I determine the air flow direction for my forced hot air system? I know that the filter is installed between the square opening in the duct work and the fan motor, but??????which way does the arrow/filter go????????????
Michael Kane
____________________ QUESTION from Michael Kane on 12/17/2008
Dear Wizard,
Can you please tell me how I can determine the air flow direction in my forced hot air system. I know that the filter is installed between the square opening in the duct work and the fan motor but?????which direction does the arrow on the filter go??????
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/17/2008
Dear Michael:
There are a couple of ways to verify which direction air is flowing through the air handler for your forced hot air system, because you are correct that air filters are made to go in a certain direction, which is why they have the arrows on them showing which way they should be put in. But like you said, you need to confirm which way the air is flowing to be sure you are putting the filter in the right way. This is especially important if you are moving to a new house where you can't be sure that the previous owner placed the air filters correctly in the right direction.
So, here are a couple of ways to determine air flow through an air handler for a forced air heating system:
1) if you can follow the ductwork on either side of the air handler, check to see if that side goes to a return vent or to an air register. Air comes in from return vents, and then goes through your air handler, then out of an air register. So if you can see where either side of your ductwork goes, it will allow you to determine the direction of air flow.
2) on the other hand, a sure-fire way to determine air flow through your air handler, is to tie a string to your finger that is about 6 inches long. With your filter out, turn your air handler on, and then put your finger with the string on it near the opening to where your filter would have gone. The direction that the string goes is the direction of your air flow through your air handler. One hint: tie the string on to your finger well, otherwise if it comes off, it could get sucked inside.
Hope this helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Linnie on 12/18/2008
There is water dripping into the drip pan of my 11-year-old refrigerator. The dried water is a black-red color. The water is red-orange color. It has never dripped before. What causes this and what can I do about it?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/19/2008
Dear Linnie:
If your older refrigerator has just begun to start dripping water into its drip pan, then the coils located on the back of the unity may have developed a large build-up of lint and dust, which can cause condensation to build up faster than water can evaporate out of your drip pan. To fix this you would need to pull out your refrigerator from the wall and carefully clean your coils. The discoloration that you mentioned in the water could be mold which has developed as a result of prolonged stagnant water sitting in your drip pan, or it could be rust.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Rick on 12/19/2008
Hi, I've been reading your posts about heating system issues. I have a rather new 2 story Cape Cod style house and have a minor heating issue. I have 2 zones. The first floor heats very slowly. Second floor heats quickly. I suspect the number of footage of baseboard is not enough to handle the larger first floor. I have removed the front panel of one of the baseboards and placed a small fan next to it and the house heats more quickly. I assume this confirms my suspicions about not enough baseboard for the size of the floor. What are my options? I assume that I could hire a plumber to put in more baseboards. I've also heard of small units that can be added under the kitchen sink that "blow" warm air into the room. Are these my only options? Can anything be done to the existing baseboards without hiring a plumber. This is only a problem when the house gets cool and needs to heat up as with a setback thermostat.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/20/2008
Dear Rick:
If you are not seeing sufficient heating capacity coming from your first floor baseboard heating zone, here are some thoughts on potential options:
1) You are correct, you can install a blower unit, which blows air across a section the baseboard pipe.
2) And yes, you can install additional linear feet of baseboard, assuming that you have the room to do it.
3) However the problem could be an indication that you need to bleed your the air out of the zone which serves your first floor.
4) The problem could also be an indication that you have a faulty circulator pump that is not circulating enough hot water through your first floor zone.
5) You have something blocking the first floor baseboards. A common example of this is loose or poorly installed carpet.
6) The damper on the top of the baseboard may have been closed, and this will reduce the heat capacity of the baseboards.
7) A heavy build-up of dirt, dust, animal fur or household items that have fallen on top of the baseboard fins, which can reduce the efficiency of a baseboard radiator. (Although since you said you had a rather new house, this option may not be likely, unless you have been sanding floors, or that you have heavily shedding dogs).
Hope this is helpul.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Holli in Maine on 12/21/2008
Our copper piping for our hot water baseboards is in 4 separate loops. Recently, when the weather has gone below 20, the one in the downstairs back of the house stops working. We are unable to locate any frozen pipes in the basement, but still use the hair dryer on them and the actual register. As the weather has warmed up throughout the day or from our persistance, eventually we start to hear the telltale pinging of the water going through - but - yesterday it hit 0 and today is not much warmer and despite all of our efforts, we can not get out heat going. Any advice?
____________________ QUESTION from Roger on 12/23/2008
Are garbage disposal is out and we can't afford to replace it right now.The problem is everytime I use the dishwasher I have a build-up of water in both sides of the sink and I have to take a pan to empty it.It has been extremely cold here lately are the pipes frozen or should I pour some Drano down.
____________________ QUESTION from roger on 12/23/2008
our garbage disposal is out but we can't afford to get it fixed.The problem is that when I run the dishwasher both sides of our sink fills up with water.I have to empty it with a pan.It has been extremely cold here is it frozen,plugged and can I put Drano in it.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/23/2008
Roger:
If I understand you correctly, it has been really cold, and now the pipes below your sink appear to be blocked and water backflows into your sink when your run your dishwasher, right?
Is your sink and dishwasher located on an exterior wall of your house? In other words, is the wall that has your sink and dishwasher exposed to the cold on the outside?
If this is the case, then your pipes may have frozen inside the wall, and this is what is causing your backflow problem. What I would suggest that you do IMMEDIATELY (to help keep your pipes from bursting) is:
1) Open up the cabinets below your sink and open your dishwasher.
2) Place a fan in from of both your open sink cabinets and dishwasher to circulate warm air from the room into these areas.
3) If you have a hair dryer, use it to warm up the back wall of your under-sink cabinet and dishwasher. DO NOT use anything hotter than this. And absolutely DO NOT use a torch, propane heater, etc to speed up the process.
If this gets your sink and dishwasher drains flowing, then there are two things that you still have to do:
1) You need to inspect to see that your pipes did not crack. Otherwise, now that the pipes would be unfrozen, if they have cracked then water can leak inside you walls.
2) You need to improve the insulation of this exterior wall and add air vents to the the cabinetry to allow warm air from the room to circulate into this area. Since it sounds like you have some budget constraints (like many, many of us do right now!), then you may want to leave your under-sink cabinet doors open when it is cold outside, and then add a fan in front of the open doors when it gets really cold.
If this doesn't work, then yes, you can try DRANO. But be sure to read the package, and FOLLOW DIRECTIONS COMPLETELY, otherwise it can be dangerous.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Nicole Halmos on 12/23/2008
I am spending my first winter in my home - brick, built in 1938, when I moved in in early spring, a friend installed a programable thermostat for the heating system (furnace, steam radiator). Today, "filter" popped up on the screen - does this refer to changing a filter in the furnace? How is this done? (or what type of professional should I get to do it?)
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/23/2008
Dear Nicole:
Yes, many of the good newer programmable thermostats will display a reminder when its time to change the air filter on your furnace.
Regarding your second question, here is a link to a short video that describes how to change a furnace air filter:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4i__W4idIc&feature=related
As you will see in the video, changing a furnace filter is fairly easy to do, and since you should change them frequently (once a month for some types of filters), this is something that is good to learn how to do yourself.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Joe on 12/27/2008
we just had the blower on the fan of our gas fireplace replaced. Howerver, after one day of working the blower does not circulate warm air into the room.
Also the thermostat that is controlled by a dial has stopped working.WE just paid $800 to have the blower replaced--are these problems connected--or do we now need a new thermostat?
YOur advice would really be appreciated.
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/27/2008
Dear Joe:
To understand your problem better, I'll need to ask you a couple of questions:
1) When you say that the blower on your gas fireplace "does not circulate warm air into the room", do you mean that the blower is not blowing strong enough? Or is it not turning on at all?
2) When you say "the thermostat . . . has stopped working", do you mean that when you turn the dial all the way up, that your fireplace doesn't turn on? Or is it just the blower that does not turn on?
3) Have you checked the fuse or circuit-breaker for your blower / fireplace?
Just let us know about these, and then we can help you further.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Joe on 12/27/2008
Thank you so much for you reply to our problem.
The blower does not seem to be turning on at al although it did work for about a day after the new one was installed on Monday of this week-the thermostat also does not turn on even when it is turned all the way up-
we checked all the circut breakers but can't find one that doesn't seem to be working-a technician from Direct Energy is on the way over here and hopefully it is only a circut breaker-but we don;t know where the breakers for the fireplace are-we just paid Direct Energy almost $900 to have the blower replaced.
Thank you for answering -Joe
____________________ QUESTION from Joe on 12/27/2008
Thank you, problem solved
The techincian that installed the blower had unplugged the fan for his light and he forgot to put the plug back in after he had finished testing and checking his work.Phew-glad that's taken care of.
Much appreciation for your trying to solve our problem.
I am bookmarking you in case of future problems. Good to know that you are "nearby".
Happy Holidays.
Joe
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/27/2008
Joe:
Glad to hear that your problem is resolved. I had the feeling that somehow your unit wasn't getting power.
Just let us know if we can help you in the future.
Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ QUESTION from Joe on 12/27/2008
Its great to know that you are available.
Sincere appreciation for your taking the time to reply to our problem.
You are bookmarked!
Thank you and happy holidays.
Joe
____________________ QUESTION from CHRIS on 12/28/2008
I have had a Thelin Co. Parlour Direct Vent Gas Stove for about 5 years that is DV wall-vented (outside tube supplies fresh air & inside tube is for exiting gas); where, I will have the active flame & pilot GO OUT during the high and FREQUENT mountain wind gusts here in Breckenridge, CO (80424) at an altitude of 9800'. This is a 'pot-belly' stove that vents out the top 3' vertically w/ a 1' horizontal pipe to the outside wall w/ a square horizontal cap. The stove is in the basement, so a vertical rise to roof height (1 & 1/2 stories) is not possible. During high winds, I can observe the flame getting 'larger' w/ high wind gusts, then getting smaller as wind ceases, w/ the flame finally blowing out w/ continued high wind gusts. If I open the front (flame/pilot are OUT, stove is "OFF" & stove has vented gas) during these gusty times, you can feel significant cold air coming in the house from the outside w/ sufficient force to prevent a 'manual' lighting of the pilot (matches will be actually be 'blown out'). I usually use the 'pilot starter', just so you know.
Additionally, if I place the stove in 'pilot only' mode (not "ON"), the pilot will most always stay lit during high winds (but not always): The stove has an auto-gas shutdown feature when the pilot goes out (you hear a 'click' when the gas service is terminated). When this flame blow out occurs, we smell gas for a brief period - I believe there is so much wind coming into the stove from the outside that it is pushing the residual gas into the home following blow-out of the flame.
I'm wondering if the Air Shutter in the documentation needs adjustment by a service technician?
I noticed on Simpson's DuraVent web site that they now supply a 'high wind' horizontal cap, but I'm wondering if this will be sufficient to solve the problem?
http://www.duravent.com/pdf/dvp_caps2007.pdf
Otherwise, how can I have a service tech mitigate winds continually blowing out the flame?
I can be reached via email or my CELL (below).
Sincere THX for your assistance here.
____________________ QUESTION from CHRIS on 12/28/2008
I have had a Thelin Co. Parlour Direct Vent Gas Stove for about 5 years that is DV wall-vented (outside tube supplies fresh air & inside tube is for exiting gas); where, I will have the active flame & pilot GO OUT during the high and FREQUENT mountain wind gusts here in Breckenridge, CO (80424) at an altitude of 9800'. This is a 'pot-belly' stove that vents out the top 3' vertically w/ a 1' horizontal pipe to the outside wall w/ a square horizontal cap. The stove is in the basement, so a vertical rise to roof height (1 & 1/2 stories) is not possible. During high winds, I can observe the flame getting 'larger' w/ high wind gusts, then getting smaller as wind ceases, w/ the flame finally blowing out w/ continued high wind gusts. If I open the front (flame/pilot are OUT, stove is "OFF" & stove has vented gas) during these gusty times, you can feel significant cold air coming in the house from the outside w/ sufficient force to prevent a 'manual' lighting of the pilot (matches will be actually be 'blown out'). I usually use the 'pilot starter', just so you know.
Additionally, if I place the stove in 'pilot only' mode (not "ON"), the pilot will most always stay lit during high winds (but not always): The stove has an auto-gas shutdown feature when the pilot goes out (you hear a 'click' when the gas service is terminated). When this flame blow out occurs, we smell gas for a brief period - I believe there is so much wind coming into the stove from the outside that it is pushing the residual gas into the home following blow-out of the flame.
I'm wondering if the Air Shutter in the documentation needs adjustment by a service technician?
I noticed on Simpson's DuraVent web site that they now supply a 'high wind' horizontal cap, but I'm wondering if this will be sufficient to solve the problem?
http://www.duravent.com/pdf/dvp_caps2007.pdf
Otherwise, how can I have a service tech mitigate winds continually blowing out the flame?
I can be reached via email or my CELL (number removed for security reasons).
THX for your assistance here
____________________ QUESTION from Michael Allen on 12/28/2008
I have broken the glass in the top sash in a 30 year old three channel aluminum storm window. I have no idea who manufactured the window, though I have had identical windows in other houses...is there a company that can replace the broken glass so that I can use the same frame, or might I just have to hunt around to find a replacement which will fit my existing track? The window is on the third floor of an 18th century brick house, removal of the old track to replace the entire unit would be quite difficult, and everything else about the window works fine. However, do you think total removal and replacement might be the only way to go?
____________________ QUESTION from Michael Allen on 12/28/2008
I have broken the glass in the top sash in a 30 year old three channel aluminum storm window. I have no idea who manufactured the window, though I have had identical windows in other houses...is there a company that can replace the broken glass so that I can use the same frame, or might I just have to hunt around to find a replacement which will fit my existing track? The window is on the third floor of an 18th century brick house, removal of the old track to replace the entire unit would be quite difficult, and everything else about the window works fine. However, do you think total removal and replacement might be the only way to go?
____________________ QUESTION from Larry on 12/28/2008
I read the info regarding closing down the central air conditioning system for the winter, but I saw nothing about blocking off the air return. I thought this was very important to prevent condensate from water damaging the home. Am I wrong?
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/28/2008
Dear Chris:
First, I want to thank you for sending in such a detailed explanation of your problem. I wish that everyone who submitted questions took the time that you have to thoroughly describe their situation. It really helps us to understand what your specific problem is, and how we can best assist you in resolving it.
Second, your instincts are correct, and yes, we would strongly recommend that you bring in a trained service technician who can physically examine your gas fireplace and how it is located in your house, and who can make the necessary changes to stop the problems that you are having from high winds.
The reason I suggest that you have someone who can physically see your situation, is that there a three challenging situations with locating gas fireplaces:
1) High altitudes.
2) Basement locations.
3) High winds.
. . . and you have all three of these challenges together!
For example, regarding you being at a high altitude, some direct vent gas fireplaces require that when installing the unit at an elevation above 2000 feet that it may be necessary to decrease the input rating by changing the existing burner orifice to a smaller size. And for these, the input should be reduced 4 percent for each 1000 feet above sea level. However, if the heating value of the gas has been reduced, this general rule may not apply. But regardless, it is always best to check with local authorities for assistance in determining the proper orifice for a particular location.
But you are operating your gas fireplace at an altitude of almost 10,000 feet !
And regarding having your gas fireplace in your basement, this creates another challenge for your vent pipe to have a long enough vertical rise to get a good draft, but still being able to be clear of windows to meet regulations.
And the third challenging situation is high winds which can disrupt air flows around your intake/vent pipes.
Given that you have all three of these challenging situations together, I would definitely suggest that you contact an authorized Thelin dealer in your area (here is Thelin's webpage for locating a dealer in Colorado: http://www.thelinco.com/dealers.htm ), and find a trained Thelin service technician who can physically evaluate your installation and make the appropriate suggestions that will enable you to operate your gas fireplace safely for your particular situation.
Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
____________________ ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM on 12/28/2008
Dear Michael:
To answer your question, yes, you should be able to replace the glass from your storm window. Here is a webpage that describes how you can do it:
http://www.pickenswindowparts.com/storm_windows.html
And here's another one with illustrative photos: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-replace-a-broken-glass-pane-in-a-metal-stor.html
If everything else about your window works fine, and is in good shape, I would think that you would want to just replace the glass.
If replacing the glass yourself is
