QUESTIONS & ANSWERS from "Ask-the-Wizard":

What kind of paint should be used to paint radiators?

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com:

Laura:

The short answer is that you might want to consider using something like Krylon "Hi Heat & Radiator" brand paint for your radiator.

But here are some other thoughts that you might want to consider:

1) if you are going to do this project for this winter, you should consider doing it soon, before the weather gets too cold. This is because you will want to open the windows and and run your heating system to allow the smell and fumes that will likely be produced the first time your new paint job gets warmed up by the hot radiator.

2) Regardless of which brand of high temperature paint you choose to use, you should consider using "non-metallic" paint. Non-metallic paint can come in a variety of colors, and will allow your radiator to emit more heat that a "metallic" paint.

3) Although it is not much fun, like any painting project, preparing the surface to be painted is the most important part of the job if you want the final product to look good and to last. Dirt, grime, loose old paint all need to come off if you want the new paint to stick properly. A wire brush, chemical strippers, and an old screwdriver can all come in handy for doing this. Next you will want to put down a coat of and oil-based (not latex) primer that contains a lot of zinc.

4) One last thought is that if you are looking for a more decorative finish to your radiator, and are looking for a "bronzed" or two-tone appearance, you might want to check out: http://www.oldhousejournal.com/magazine/2003/february/bronze_beauties.shtml

Hope this is helpful for you.
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from "sagehervan":  

I live in a apartment and the radiator baseboard was not working and now it is, and the fumes are all through the apartment.  Will it go away soon?  Or will I have to get a repairman?

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com:

Dear sagehervan:

Regarding your question about the smell from your baseboard radiator system, since you said that you are in an apartment and had not used the baseboard system before, there are two things that this could likely be:

1) if the landlord painted the baseboard heating system (either directly, or if paint dripped on the baseboard radiator when the walls or ceilings were painted), then when you turned on the system, the increased temperature could be causing "outgassing" of the paint as it warms up on the surface of the radiator; or

2) if dust has built up on the surfaces of baseboard radiator, then this can have a "musty" smell when your system comes on for the first time in a season.

In either case, if these are the problem then it should go away over time. However if it is because of paint on the radiators, you might want to open the windows to help air out your apartment, rather than breathing the paint fumes. And if it is due to dust build-up on your radiators, you might try using a vacuum attachment to clean off the built up dust.

If the smell does not go away soon, then you (or your landlord) should contact a professional.

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from "Brent":  

My baseboard radiators make a loud bang when the heat comes on in the bedroom. I suspect it is like water hammer. How do I fix it?

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com:

Dear Brent:

You say that you hear the bang noise when your baseboard radiator turns on. As such, the noise is probably not coming from a water hammer (which more typically occurs when a valve suddenly closes).

Here are some potential causes of the bang noise that you are hearing:

1) A pipe to or from this baseboard radiator that is running through a hole in a wall, etc. that is too tight, which doesn't allow sufficiently for the pipe's thermal expansion.

2) Pipes not supported properly, such that when they turn on, they bang into one another or into other things.

3) The zone valve is installed backwards.

4) Air is trapped in the line, which needs to be bled out.

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from "confused":  

Upstairs radiators are cold and down stairs are hot. Just repaired recirculation pump and still no heat upstairs. Bled all radiators and no heat upstairs.

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com:

Dear confused:

Since you have already repaired your recirculation pump, bled all radiators, and you are not getting heat in only one zone of radiators, then here are a couple possible causes of why you are not getting heat in your upstairs radiators:

1) It could be possible that you have dedicated circulators for different heating zones in your home. If so, you should check to see if the circulator for your upstairs radiators has failed.
2) If not, you should check the zone valve that serves your upstairs radiators. The water pipe should be hot both upstream and downstream of this zone valve. If the valve is bad or stuck, it will be hot upstream of the valve, but then cool downstream of the valve. (Upstream refers to the piping that is in the direction of the boiler)

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from "chris carolan nj":  

I keep getting air in my system.  Its a 4 zone system and only the top floor 1 zone gets it.  I do have another zone on the top floor, but that one is always fine.  I bleed it and then a month later it gurgles and sounds like a faucet again, so I bleed it and its good for another month.  What is happening to be allowing air in?  Thanks

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com:

Dear chris carolan nj:

If you keep getting air in your hot water heating system, it sounds like you might likely have a small water leak somewhere in your system. You should check all of the bleeder valves on your system, as this is a common place for water leaks to occur. And you should also check all of the piping, valves and fittings around your boiler for signs of water leakage. Hopefully, there are no water leaks occurring in any of the piping anywhere inside of your walls, as this can cause major problems related to pests, etc.

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from CHRISTINE on 4/18/2008:

HOW DO I SHUT OFF THE HEAT FROM THE HEATER?

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 4/19/2008:

Dear Christine:

To answer your question about how to turn off your heater, I'll first need to know what type of heating system that you have.

For example, is it a radiator or baseboard heating system? Or is a forced air distribution system?

And does your heating system have separate thermostat controls from your air conditioning system (if you have central air conditioning)?

Just let me know, and then I can hopefully give you the correct advice for your particular type of heating system.

Sincerely,
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from marv schoenberg on 4/20/2008:

Why do apartment house radiators cause so much dust? my windows are shut so it has to be coming from the radiators. How can it be stopped?

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 4/20/2008:

Dear marv schoenberg:

Regarding your question about why radiators cause so much dust, do you mean "radiators" as in hot water systems that heat pipes in your rooms? Or do you actually mean "registers" for hot air that blows into your rooms?

If you mean "radiators" then the dust that is being kicked up in your rooms is likely from the heat currents around your radiators, which cause warm air to rise, and when the air rises it pulls up dust from the floor, which then settles down on your furniture, etc. 

For radiator heating systems, you can cut down on dust in your rooms by installing a separate electrostatic air purifier in your rooms.

If you actually mean "registers" for a forced hot air heating system, then you can cut down dust by installing a central electronic air cleaner on your blower. You can also cut down on dust by installing more efficient air filters.

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from lindielou39 on 3/24/2008:

If my pump speed is set too low it stops the noise but then my radiators wont heat up and my boiler sounds like its blowing bubbles, if i turn the pump speed up the rads will heat up but then the pump makes an awful revving sound?

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 3/24/2008:

Dear lindielou39:

It sounds like you may have air trapped in your system. Have you already tried bleeding the air from your system? If you haven't, be sure that your water make-up valve is working so that your system can re-fill with water when the air comes out.

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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FOLLOW-UP QUESTION from lindielou on 3/25/2008:

I have checked my system and all the radiators are full, however am finding now that my upstairs radiators are hot but my downstairs radiators are just lukewarm??

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 3/25/2008:
Dear lindielou: 

If you are sure that you have bled all of the air out of your downstairs radiators, and you are not getting heat in only one zone of radiators, then here are a couple possible causes of why you are not getting heat in your downstairs radiators:

1) It could be possible that you have dedicated circulators for different heating zones in your home. If so, you should check to see if the circulator for your downstairs radiators has failed.

2) If not, you should check the zone valve that serves your downstairs radiators. The water pipe should be hot both upstream and downstream of this zone valve. If the valve is bad or stuck, it will be hot upstream of the valve, but then cool downstream of the valve. (Upstream refers to the piping that is in the direction of the boiler)

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from Tiana on 2/29/2008:

What year did home radiator heating systems stop being built with homes? or What year did they start introducing forced heat built with homes?

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 2/29/2008:

Dear Triana:

Regarding your question of "when did radiator heating systems stop being built"?, actually they have not stopped being built. Many homes today are still built with different types of radiator systems, for example, baseboard water radiator systems.

Regarding the second part of your question, forced air heating began being used to heat homes back around 1935, with the introduction of the electric fan being used to distribute air through ductwork in the house, and back then, the air was heated by a coal-fired furnace. Later the fuel for the furnace was replaced by oil and gas.

If you want to learn more about the history of home heating systems, then check out this website:

http://sunhomedesign.wordpress.com/2007/10/26/a-brief-history-of-heating-and-cooling-americas-homes/

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from phil on 2/28/2008:

I have a radiator that is running hot even though the heat is turned off...what is that a sign of and what should I do?

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com 2/28/2008:
Dear Phil:

How long does your radiator continue to run hot after the heat is turned off? If it is just a short while, this is called "pump overrun", and it is when your circulation pump continues to run to take heat away from your boiler to keep it from overheating.

Home-Wizard.com
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Question from jane lloyd 2/22/2008:

What oil do you use in a oil radiator? are they refillable?

Response from Home-Wizard.com 2/22/2008:
Dear jane lloyd:

Typically, an oil-filled radiator is NOT refillable.

Has yours leaked? Or were you just wondering if there is maintenance required for the oil in your radiator?

Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from Nance Lee 2/19/2008:

My son knocked a radiator screw off while lifting weights in the basement. We lost a good deal of water (maybe three or four gallons). Now, one radiator in the kitchen is ice cold. The rest are warm and seem fine. Will the system replenish itself or do I need to do something (add water - how? or call a repairman) - thanks!

Response from Home-Wizard.com on 2/19/2008:
Dear Nance Lee:

A couple of thoughts regarding the problem you are having after you lost so much water from your radiator system:

1) Regarding your question about whether the system will replenish itself, your system should have an automatic make-up valve installed in it, which brings in fresh water as your system has loses, expansions and contractions, etc. So assuming that this valve is there, and is operating properly, you should be alright and the system should replenish itself with water.

2) However,regarding the problem you are having with no heat in your kitchen, since you have heat in you other zones, it sounds like the problem is just related to your kitchen zone. Chances are that when you lost so much water, that the kitchen zone may have filled up with air. So if you haven't already, you might want to try to bleed your kitchen radiators. If you are not sure how to do this, you can look in our online Maintenance Library, on the Baseboard Heating System page:

http://www.home-wizard.com/maintenance/baseboardheating.asp

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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FOLLOW-UP QUESTION from Nance Lee on 2/19/2008:

Thank you (sorry I accidentally posted three times - I hit refresh to see your answer!)

While all the other radiators have a similar bleed screw, the kitchen one does not (of course). It is smaller than the others and built under the counter - I can only access one side of it and there is no screw there. There is a large valve that comes out of the floor - should I unscrew that? There is also what appears to be a bolt, maybe half inch diameter, on the side in the middle (not at the top where the other screws are). It has been painted over and appears to have never been opened.

FOLLOW-UP QUESTION from Nance Lee on 2/19/2008 :

Me again! We figured out how to take the screw out of the cold radiator in the kitchen. There is a big 2 inch diameter hole now, and nothing is coming out - air or water. How long do we wait? Also the pressure gauge on the boiler reads sreo (not a good thing, but also confusing since every other radiator is working fine). Maybe that gauge never worked; I honestly don't remember looking at it once in the past 17 years I have lived here (not a good thing either!) Thanks in advance -

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 2/19/2008:
Dear Nance Lee:

I was just about to suggest that you try to carefully un-screw the bolt that was half-way up (being careful because there could be hot water squirting out). This could be a way to test if there is air or water in your kitchen radiator.

But if you are saying what you opened is about 2 inches in diameter, and there is nothing coming out, then I'm wondering a couple of things: 1) if maybe this plug is not an opening in the water jacket of the radiator, but rather a mounting bracket of some sort; or 2) if it is indeed an opening to your radiator water jacket, then if the water supply to your kitchen radiator has somehow gotten shut off.

To answer you question about how long you would have to wait, the answer is not very long. If this was an opening to your radiator (and the zone valve to this radiator was open), and your water make-up valve was operating properly, you would see air or water coming out almost immediately.

When you had the original leak when your son knocked off the radiator screw in the basement, is it possible that the zone valve for the supply to your kitchen radiator got shut off when trying to contain the leak? One way to check is when you look at the zone valves in the basement, do all of them appear to be in the same position?

The other thing that is troubling is that you were able to find bleeder valves for all of your other zones, but not for the kitchen. You said that the kitchen radiator is built under a counter, and is it possible that the bleeder is tucked in a hard to reach spot? Do you have a small mirror that you can use to see the back side of the top of this radiator?

Regarding the boiler valve reading zero but the other zones are working, it could be a bad guage as you suggested, it could also be that there is a valve in the piping before that guage that is shut, and therefore the guage is not able to read the boiler's pressure.

If the above doesn't let you solve the problem, just let us know what you find out, and we'll try some other ways to diagnose the problem. 

Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
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FOLLOW-UP QUESTION from Nance Lee on 2/20/2008:
OK. The expansion tank on the second floor is completely empty. The radiator in the kitchen must have created a vacuum. When I try to bleed a different radiator it sucks air IN instead of letting air out. So I am about to open the valve to fill the boiler. I am thinking I should just do it to maybe 10 feet instead of the complete 20 feet it normally is at, to go slow and not let it pressurize too much so fast that the tank overflows. Then I will probably have to bleed all the radiators too, right? Please let me know if I am on the right track. Thanks!

FOLLOW-UP QUESTION from Nance Lee on 2/20/2008:
Not sure if you saw my newest question, right before M Hart's last post. Thanks!

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 2/20/2008:
Dear Nance Lee:

You system should NOT be drawing air IN. From your description, I'm wondering if it was your water make-up valve that was damaged. If your automatic water make-up valve is not operating correctly, this could explain why your system is not pressurizing properly, and why your kitchen zone has gotten air locked, and why you are not able to bleed it.

Can you tell if your make-up valve is working?

Regards,
Home-Wizard.com

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 2/20/2008:
Dear Nance Lee:

It sounds like the problem maybe how you are re-filling and bleeding your system. Especially since it sounds like your expansion tank is still empty (when it should be about half full after you have bled your system, or until water starts to flow out of the overflow connection). 

Here is a link to a webpage that describes various hot water systems:

http://www.usace.army.mil/publications/armytm/tm5-642/chap5.pdf

Section 5-3 of this webpage describes the startup procedure for filling and bleeding your system. Hopefully by following this procedure, your entire system (including the kitchen radiator and your expansion tank) will be able to fill, and solve your problem. If not, please let me know what you find, and we'll keep working on figuring this out for you.

Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
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FOLLOW-UP QUESTION from Nance Lee on 2/22/2008:

Well, it took me about 5 hours yesterday but everything is working perfectly now! I had to start with the third floor radiators (there are 5 of them) and work down. Each time I bled off air I had to go back to the basement and repressurize to 20 feet again. I bet I did 100 flights of stairs yesterday! But eventually the kitchen radiator refilled with warm water and all of them are working beautifully. Thank you so much for your patience and that great diagram! My husband was impressed that I actually read military specs to fix the boiler system!

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 2/22/2008:
Dear Nance Lee:

Thanks for the feedback. We're glad to hear that this helped you to solve your problem. From your description, it sounded like it had to be related to how you were re-filling your system. And it seemed like the diagram would help for your particular system.

Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from cold inside on 2/10/2008:
Water shoots out of my steam release valve on my one pipe radiator system. what do I do?

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 2/10/2008:
Dear "cold inside":

If your problem is water squirting out of an AIR vent, accompanied by hissing noises, then this indicates that the steam valve has not been shut off tight or that the steam valve has a worn-out seat.

If its not your AIR vent, just let us know where the vent is located, and what the vent looks like, and we can try to help you further.

Regards,
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from Ken on 1/31/2008:

Hi I have to replace my steam radiator air valve. The air valve I have is shape like a long cylinder but the one I have to replace it with is shape like a bullet. My question does the shape make a different in the way steam will run through my house or is it that different brand make the air valve in different shapes?

Response from Home-Wizard.com on 1/31/2008:
Dear Ken:

Are you refering to your steam radiator "air" valve which is located near the top of the radiator, or do you mean your steam radiator "pressure reducing" valve which is typically located near your boiler?

Home-Wizard.com
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FOLLOW-UP QUESTION from Ken on 1/31/2008:

The steam radiator "pressure reducing" valve which is typically located my boiler

FOLLOW-UP QUESTION from Ken on 1/31/2008:

"More information to my question" The steam radiator "pressure reducing" valve which is located near my boiler in the basement I think this is what I was referring to it is located on the top of a pipe near the boiler and you can hear it let air out from time to time . I hope I was able to explain it better to you the part seems to go by few different name Air Valve,steam radiator valve etc..

ANSWER from Home-Wizard.com on 1/31/2008
Dear Ken:

Yes, you are correct, the pressure-reducing valve is also called the “automatic make-up valve” or the “feed-water pressure regulator”. The pressure-reducing valve connects the house plumbing supply system to the boiler water. It is designed to automatically maintain an adequate amount of water in the boiler at the desired pressure (12 to 15 psi).

The pressure-reducing valve can also be part of an assembly that includes a pressure-relief valve. Some types of pressure-reducing valves have a check-valve inside of them that prevents water flowing back from the heating system into the plumbing system, and as such, it acts as a backflow preventer. Note however that some towns require the backflow preventer to be separate.

Since it sounds like your new pressure-reducing valve is significantly smaller than your previous one, I’m wondering if the one that you replaced was also a pressure-relief valve or had a check-valve inside of it. If this is the case, then your system could now be potentially operating without either a pressure-relief valve or a backflow preventer. This is not good, and it NEEDS TO BE VERIFIED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. If you no longer have a pressure-relief valve or backflow preventer in your system, then you could potentially over-pressure your system or have heating system water flowing into your household drinking water.

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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QUESTION from carmella on 5/10/2008:

I hear a whoosing sound coming from one radiator at the same time every night - I have hot water heat

ANSWER FROM HOME-WIZARD.COM ON 5/10/2008:

Dear Carmella:

I'm assuming that the sound that you are hearing coming from your radiator is happening when your heat comes on in the evening when the temperature starts to go down outside, and the demand for heat in your house goes up.

I suspect that the whooshing sound that you are hearing from one of your radiators is likely do to air trapped in this radiator that needs to be bled out. If this is the case, you will also notice that when its operating that the radiator will be warm on the bottom but cooler on the top.

To bleed your radiator, you will need a "bleed key" and a towel or bowl. Here is the procedure for how to bleed a radiator: 

1) Turn off you hot water system (turning down the thermostat is fine) 

2) Locate the bleed valve on your radiator. It will be located near the top of your radiator, typically towards the end.

3) Put your towel or bowel under the front of the bleed valve (to catch any water that drips out), and then insert the bleed key into the bleed valve and turn it counterclockwise. Don’t turn it too much; a half a turn is usually enough to allow air to start coming out. BE CAREFUL, because if water starts to come out, it may be scalding hot.

4) As you turn the radiator key, the valve will open and you will hear a hissing sound. This is completely normal and is simply caused by the air escaping. Once water begins to leak out of the radiator, then close the valve. To do so, turn the bleed key clockwise until tight.

5) Turn your central heating system back on.

You might find it helpful to watch this short video about how to bleed a radiator:

 http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-bleed-your-radiator


If this doesn't solve your problem, just let us know and we can try something else.

Hope this is helpful.
Home-Wizard.com
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